Camellia Dress | Collaboration with Natalie Bleakly

As I wrote in my previous post, I had my original fabric printed by Contrado. My plan was to crate a simple dress that would show off the flower illustration Natalie made. I chose a simple I-line style dress, but wanted to spice it up a bit by adding interesting tucks on one side of the dress.  I used Make Your Own Dress Patterns by Adele P. Margolis to move the darts to the side. The original patterns I used are the same as the bodice of this dress. I changed the princess lines to two bust darts, then moved the darts to the side. The skirt is a wrap style skirt. I also added some tucks on the right side of the front skirt to match the tucks in the bodice. I am pleased with the result and it is fun to work with the original fabric that is printed just for you. I'm excited to explore other options like scuba fabric and poly twill. This dress I offer on etsy is made of poly twill so maybe I will make a variation of that with original fabric. Contradoでオーダーした生地で、ドレス出来上がりました! 生地の詳しいことは前回のブログにて。 2mオーダーして、1mごとにNatalie Bleaklyのイラストの椿の花がプリントされるよう、オーダーしました。 生地はダッチェス・サテン。こしがあり、縫いやすいサテンです。テロテロ感も少ないので、このようなIラインのスカートも作れます。 フィット感のあるボディの型紙(これと同じもの)の変形型。 プリンセスラインを胸ダーツに変更後、今度はダーツを左サイドにずらしてタックにしました。 膝下丈と深いスリットで大人っぽいデザインに。 真っ白なので着ていくところにちょっと困りますが・・・クールな花嫁様にウェディングドレスとしてどうでしょうか? Find me elsewhere:

The Construction of Rental Wedding Dresses in Japan

The Construction of Rental Wedding Dresses in JapanI make custom wedding dresses (my recent makes here and here), but occasionally I have a chance to refashion a dress from a rental shop. Renting one's wedding dress is very popular in Japan. Usually the rental dress shop a given bride uses is associated with wedding ceremony venue so a bride "must" pick a dress from that wedding hall's dress shop. If they choose an alternate dress rental provider, they will be charged extra fee. It's interesting to see the construction of a rental dress as it is different from a custom dress. Because the dress is meant to be used by different brides over and over again,  it must be made with more durable fabrics (synthetics) and is far more adjustable. I wanted to show the key features of a rental dress.inside-of-japanese-rental-wedding-dress-51. Elastic back panel I incorporate this element in the recent dress I made.inside-of-japanese-rental-wedding-dress-62. Lace upinside-of-japanese-rental-wedding-dress-3inside-of-japanese-rental-wedding-dress-43. Wide waist stayinside-of-japanese-rental-wedding-dress-24. Bra cups inside-of-japanese-rental-wedding-dress-15. Built-in tulle under skirt to add volume Not only is the construction different, but also the style of the dress is unique to rental dresses. You almost never see a relaxed Bohemian style like Grace Loves Lace or Limor Rosen as a rental option. Rather, you see dresses in a Disney princess style with a big puffy skirt and many layers. I wonder if this style difference comes from the nature of renting as it is easier for many people to fit in a puffy skirt than a mermaid style where you have to worry about the exact fit in waist and hip area. My hope is to provide more variety of choice for Japanese brides!chie sig2Find me elsewhere:

Floral Embroidery Dress

floral-embroider-dress-by-vivat-veritas-blogThis is my first completed project of 2017! Embroidery dress. I started on this in late November and it took me (according to my work hour log) about 70 hours. I went through two seasons of the BBC show, Poldark while stitching this together.

I made this dress for a customer and she will use it some kind of performance. She plays some kind of musical instrument. The inspiration comes from this Lilly Brown embroidery dress. I was intimidated at first by the number of embroidery pieces that would be required to complete the dress, but I decided to give it a try.

flower-embroidery-dress-vivat-veritas-4 hem-of-embroider-dressflower-embroidery-dress-vivat-veritas-3 close-up-embroidery dress-form-embroidery-dress back-lilly-brown-imspired-dress

The dress is made of satin and chiffon. Since it would be difficult to embroider directly on chiffon without causing the fabric to pucker, I embroidered the flowers on satin, cut around the embroidery and applique on chiffon. It might have been possible to embroider directly on chiffon if I use the embroidery machine, but I did not have an access to it this time nor the time to play around with it. Has anyone have experience with embroidery sewing machine? embroidery-flower-pieces{Flower pieces embroidered on satin, before being attached to chiffon}back-of-the-embroidery{Making sure the back is as pretty as possible}boning-wedding-dress{Boned lining before being attached to the dress. I use white washi tapes to cover the ends of the bones, tip I learned in Tatiana Kozorovitsky's class.}embroidery-dress-vivat-veritas{Dress in works before the lining is attached.}elasticized-back-panel{Elasticized panel on the right}

The dress has boning in the bodice and padded at bust area. The back has an elasticized panel with invisible zipper inside the lace-up panel so a bit of adjustment is allowed. The customer is smaller than my dress form but because of the elastic back and lace up, the dress still fit the dress form. hem-adjustmentI waited to hem the chiffon skirt until the very end. I knew with the weight of the embroidery, some parts will be weighted down. I put the dress form on chair and mark the new hem line with erasable marker. Then I cut the chiffon hem and finished it with rolled hem. Overall, it was a great experience making this dress. 2017年初めて仕上げたドレスはこちらの刺繍ドレス。 リリーブラウンの5周年ドレスに似たものを作って欲しい、と頼まれて製作しました。 刺繍はすべて手縫い。一針一針、時間をかけて縫い上げました。 そのままシフォンに刺繍をしてしまうとツレてしまうので、サテンを土台にし、刺繍したものをアップリケしていきました。 製作時間約70時間! 大変だったけれど、お客様へを羽ばたいていくドレスを見るのは嬉しいです。 chie sig2Find me elsewhere: