Tips on Sewing Tulle Dress

I recently refashioned a tulle wedding dress to a tulle skirt. The inspiration was Olivia Palermo’s two-piece wedding dress. It was interesting to take the dress apart which was made by someone else to make it into something different, and I picked up a few tips on working with tulle fabric along the way.

1. Don’t serge the seam allowances.

Because tulle is see-through, if you overlock the edges, it will be visible from the right side of the fabric. I found overlocking the tulle edges is unnecessary since tulle does not fray. Instead, use a wide seam allowances like 3 cm and press the allowances to one side without zigzag or serging. From trial and error, this turned out to be the easiest and least noticable way to finish tulle seam allowances.  

2. Be careful with the iron temperature.

If you are using nylon tulle, don’t use the high temperature setting as it might melt the fabric! I’ve done it myself. I would start with the low temperature on a scrap fabric first and then gradually raise the temperature. 

3. When hemming, hem on the dress form first then use rotary cutter to finish the uneven edges. 

First place the dress on a dress form or hang it from the ceiling. I use dress form and place it on a chair so it is easier to work. Then use a tape measure to measure the length and start marking the fabric with using pins. Then I cut the dress and take it to a mat so I can make the hem edges pretty using rotary cutter and ruler.  Dress before refashion above.I used the original dress’s lining fabric to make the waist band. It’s gathered on the side just like the one of Olivia Palermo’s. 

P.S. I’ve written more tips on refashioning wedding dress here and here.お客様の購入されたウェディングドレスをリメイクしました。
イメージはオリヴィア・パレルモ。
ドレスのトップス部分をとって、裾をハイ&ローにしてツーピースとして着れるように。
ウエストバンドは裏地だった生地を使って、少しギャザーを入れて仕上げました。
過去のリメイクの案件はこちらこちらもご覧ください。。
Find me elsewhere:

Camellia Dress | Collaboration with Natalie Bleakly

As I wrote in my previous post, I had my original fabric printed by Contrado. My plan was to crate a simple dress that would show off the flower illustration Natalie made. I chose a simple I-line style dress, but wanted to spice it up a bit by adding interesting tucks on one side of the dress.  I used Make Your Own Dress Patterns by Adele P. Margolis to move the darts to the side. The original patterns I used are the same as the bodice of this dress. I changed the princess lines to two bust darts, then moved the darts to the side. The skirt is a wrap style skirt. I also added some tucks on the right side of the front skirt to match the tucks in the bodice. I am pleased with the result and it is fun to work with the original fabric that is printed just for you. I’m excited to explore other options like scuba fabric and poly twill. This dress I offer on etsy is made of poly twill so maybe I will make a variation of that with original fabric.

Contradoでオーダーした生地で、ドレス出来上がりました!
生地の詳しいことは前回のブログにて。
2mオーダーして、1mごとにNatalie Bleaklyのイラストの椿の花がプリントされるよう、オーダーしました。
生地はダッチェス・サテン。こしがあり、縫いやすいサテンです。テロテロ感も少ないので、このようなIラインのスカートも作れます。
フィット感のあるボディの型紙(これと同じもの)の変形型。
プリンセスラインを胸ダーツに変更後、今度はダーツを左サイドにずらしてタックにしました。

膝下丈と深いスリットで大人っぽいデザインに。
真っ白なので着ていくところにちょっと困りますが・・・クールな花嫁様にウェディングドレスとしてどうでしょうか?
Find me elsewhere:

The Construction of Rental Wedding Dresses in Japan

The Construction of Rental Wedding Dresses in JapanI make custom wedding dresses (my recent makes here and here), but occasionally I have a chance to refashion a dress from a rental shop. Renting one’s wedding dress is very popular in Japan. Usually the rental dress shop a given bride uses is associated with wedding ceremony venue so a bride “must” pick a dress from that wedding hall’s dress shop. If they choose an alternate dress rental provider, they will be charged extra fee.
It’s interesting to see the construction of a rental dress as it is different from a custom dress. Because the dress is meant to be used by different brides over and over again,  it must be made with more durable fabrics (synthetics) and is far more adjustable. I wanted to show the key features of a rental dress.inside-of-japanese-rental-wedding-dress-51. Elastic back panel
I incorporate this element in the recent dress I made.inside-of-japanese-rental-wedding-dress-62. Lace upinside-of-japanese-rental-wedding-dress-3inside-of-japanese-rental-wedding-dress-43. Wide waist stayinside-of-japanese-rental-wedding-dress-24. Bra cups
inside-of-japanese-rental-wedding-dress-15. Built-in tulle under skirt to add volume

Not only is the construction different, but also the style of the dress is unique to rental dresses. You almost never see a relaxed Bohemian style like Grace Loves Lace or Limor Rosen as a rental option. Rather, you see dresses in a Disney princess style with a big puffy skirt and many layers. I wonder if this style difference comes from the nature of renting as it is easier for many people to fit in a puffy skirt than a mermaid style where you have to worry about the exact fit in waist and hip area. My hope is to provide more variety of choice for Japanese brides!chie sig2Find me elsewhere: