MADE | Ginger Skinny Jeans View B

ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas1My first handmade jeans (Ginger Skinny Jeans View B from Closet Case Files) are complete! After about 10 hours of sewing and battling with the machines, they are finally done and they are wearable. Pretty good for the first try and considering that I didn’t make a muslin! The sewing of the jeans would have gone smoother if I could have gotten the thread tension right with #20 jeans thread. I just could not make that work in my industrial Juki sewing machine or Janome home sewing machine (I use Thread Banger). The only way it worked was to use the regular thread on top and jeans thread on bobbin for my Juki, and the opposite for Janome. It was really a goofy way of sewing and it took forever since I had to change thread constantly.

Size: According to the measurement chart, my waist was size 4 and hip was 6. I merged two sizes when cutting out the patterns, but after basting the pants together, butt area felt a but loose so I recut the pattern to size 4 all together. After installing pockets and fly zip front though, size 4 felt a bit too tight. Maybe because of all the additional layer of pockets and front. So I sew the waist with 5/8″ seam allowances and hip and all the leg parts with 3/8″ seam allowances.
I have store bought jeans that fit in the hip area fine but the waist is too wide, so I can’t wear them without a belt. These Ginger jeans seem to work really well and the sizes in waist and hip are perfect.
Fabric: I wish I had chosen a fabric with more stretch. Mine is a black denim with 98% cotton and 2% polyurethane. It was labeled as “stretch denim” but the stretch is very minimal. One down side of ordering fabrics online is you can’t actually touch and feel the fabric. I ordered stretch twill with 5% stretch, and am hoping that will work better for this patterns.
Installing rivets: I bought black rivets to match the black jean button, but I could not make them work. I’m sure I annoyed our neighbors with my knocking and smashing sound late at night. I’m thinking of bringing them and my jeans to Okadaya, where I bought the rivets and ask them to install them.
Pattern modification:
None. I am surprised how well it fits without any modification.
Modifications to make in the future:
1. Shorten the length of the jeans by 3cm so that the hem of the jeans hit the ankle. I like the slightly cropped length. Right now it scrunches up at the ankle a bit. I’m sure the patterns meant to do it or not. I’m not terribly tall so it might be just my legs are shorter than normal. I’m 5’4″.
2. Either raise the pocket placement up to 1-2cm or shorten the pocket length by 1-2cm. I feel like the pockets extend too long (down till the end of my butt cheeks). It would look cleaner with shorter back pockets. This blog says the same thing.
3. I’m not sure if you can tell by the pictures, but my fly front does not lay completely flat. Perhaps change the button hole placement? There is a room for improvement.

ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas7

I wore this outfit to my friend’s birthday party last weekend. We went to a restaurant in Ginza called Lavarock (ラヴァロック). It was a lovely place and we ended up staying for three hours. Unfortunately, after eating a burger, I was uncomfortable sitting with these jeans on since the fabric is not so stretchy. I had to keep changing my leg position and kept kicking the birthday girl who sat in front of me. I’m hoping that overtime, the denim will get softer.

ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas2Outfit details | cropped top and jeans made by me,Cardigan from Andy’s grandpa, Rag and Bone Harrow Booties.ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas3 ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas5 ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas4 ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas6

洋裁を始めてから8年近く経っていますが、初めてジーンズを作りました。
パターンはインディーデザイナーのCloset Case FilesのGingerというもののViewB。
ハイウエストのスキニージーンズです。
サイズは4。

工業用ミシン、家庭用ミシン、ロックミシンの3つのミシンを使って作りました。

生地が、2%ポリウレタンが入ったストレッチデニムだったのですが、この型紙にはちょっと硬すぎたかなと反省。
立っているときはいいのですが、座ったり、足を曲げたりすると、ちょっと苦しい・・・

次回は5%ポリウレタンが入った白のコットンツイルで作ろうと思っています。

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MADE | Polkadot Button Up & Pom Pom Beanie

polkadot button up shirt grainline studio vivat veritas1 This is my third Archer Button Up shirt by Grainline Studio. You might be sick of me talking about this pattern, so I will keep this blog post short. When I use commercial patterns, I try to make more than one garment from the pattern so as to get the maximum value out of paying for the pattern, printing out the pages, and assembling the A4 paper puzzle which can take a while. Because I am a big fan of this pattern, I had to make more than a few.

The inspiration of this shirt came from a YouTuber, Mimi Ikonn. I enjoy watching her videos and in one of her videos, she was wearing a polka dot button up, skinny jeans and red blazer and looked really cute. I like this polkadot, it adds a playful element to the outfit yet not like a Minnie mouse.
The fabric is from the sale’s section of Nippori Tomato (トマト). It was only 100 yen (1 USD) per meter, and I bought two meters for this button up. It is most likely synthetic mix (rayon and cotton it seems like). Compared to my silk Archer, this one is much easier to care for. I can throw it in the washer and no ironing is required after each wear. I love my silk button up but, it is certainly not fitted for my daily life, which involves running around with a three-year-old.
Again, I added the sleeve tabs, which will come in handy for warmer months. I also extended the length by 5cm. It gives more butt coverage than the last two (here and here) Archer shirts I made.
I made this shirt last year and finally took pictures today. Sometimes it’s hard to find a time that the weather and my mood work together (Did you read Rachel’s post about How to feel confident behind the camera lenses?)

polkadot button up shirt grainline studio vivat veritas2 polkadot button up shirt grainline studio vivat veritas3polkadot button up shirt grainline studio vivat veritas4Details | pattern: Grainline Archer Button Up | fabric: seems to be rayon and cotton blend | Size: 2 | Modification: added sleeve tabs and extended the length by 5cm|Interface: light weight fusible stretch interface

Outfit details | Shirt made by me, old H&M faux leather shorts (similar), Cardigan from Andy’s grandpa, Sam Edelman Petty Suede booties, Alexander Wang tote,denim DIYed (blogged here), Beanie knitted by me.

Grainline Studioのシャツまた作りました♪
これで3枚目です。今回はレーヨンとコットン混合のような布(生地表示がなかったので詳しくはわかりませんが)で作りました。

洗濯機でじゃぶじゃぶ洗えるし、アイロンがけは不要だし、とても気安いシャツです。

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2014 in Review

Today is the last day of 2014! This year has passed quickly and was a full of fun activities. I officially registered my business in the beginning of the year and decided to focus mainly on weddings. It was a lot of work but I had  great fun and learned a lot. I blogged less due to lack of time, but I am hoping to be able to post twice a week in the 2015. Thank you so much for those who participated in the blog survey. I really enjoyed reading everyone’s responses and it has helped me greatly already. I appreciate everyone’s support <3

Wedding dresses
Here are some of the wedding dresses I made this year.


vv wedding dress small1
{Two-way wedding dress}Vivat Veritas Beach Wedding1{Boho wedding dress and bridesmaid dresses}

beachy wedding dress{Beachy boho wedding dress}

Style2 Skirt9{Two-way wedding dress}natsumi vivat veritas wedding dress custom order1{Three-way gold lace wedding dress}

dress sketch3{Wedding dress sketch for a customer}Flower Girl4 {Satin & organza flower girl’s dress}

Clothes I made for myself
Here is around up of what I’ve made for myself this year. There are some items that did not make to blog but have been my favorites nonetheless. Hopefully I can take pictures of them soon. I made bunch of tops, including Grainline Studio Archer button ups (made four in total!) but no skirt or pants. Andy’s grandmother bought me Ginger jeans pattern from Closet Case Files for Christmas, so it will be my first sewing project for the year 2015.

pink coat completed2 by vivat veritas{Pink coat (BurdaStyle Wool Long Coat 08/2012#101B)}butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas7{Butterick 4610 Camel Wool Coat}butterick 4610 boyfriend jacket by vivat veritas1{Butterick 4610 Pale Pink Jacket}

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas9{Grainline Studio Archer button up shirt}archer button up shirt silk version5{Grainline Studio Archer button up silk variation}

handmade gray t-shirt by vivatveritas1{Boyfriend T-shirt}daisy kimono close up1{Daisy print kimono}

kawasaki city dress by vivat veritas2{Kawasaki city dress}white tank dress with tulip hem vivat veritas blog3{White tank dress with tulip hem}

Photoshoots
I did a several photoshoots this year but most of them did not end up on the blog, mostly because I did not have time to sort through the photos. I posted under the “2014 Lookbook”, so you can check them out here if you are interested. I contributed as a wardrobe stylist for a promotional video shoot by students at Tokyo Visual Arts. It was shown in a gallery in Shibuya, and the link to the video is here.
Another highlight is that I participated in a fashion show for the first time! It was very exciting. My blog post is here.

bts5{Spring + Bridal Photoshoot}ami vivat veritas portfolio shoot2{Simple is Best}
Vivat Veritas Bridal Lookbook 2014 Boho Wedding Custom Dress3{Bridal Lookbook with Paint with StarsPowder Blue and White Piping Scooter Dress VIVATVERITAS{Powder blue and sequin}IMG_1545antique studio shoot wedding dress vivat veritas{Antique studio shoot}630 butterfly hatano and vivat veritas collaboration wedding shoot{Collaboration with a photographer Taichi Hatano}

Easy DIYs
I love in-between projects. I can get an instant satisfaction out of easy DIYs. Here are some I’ve done this year.

before and after DIY sweatshirt{Sweatshirt DIY}pale pink faux leather clutch by vivat veritas2{DIY Pale Pink Faux Leather Clutch}Untitled-1{DIY 90’s dress to a peplum top}t-shirt to dress DIY Vivat Veritas Blog{Toddler T-shirt to dress tutorial}DIY dress to cropped top by vivat veritas{DIY Dress to a cropped top}DIY lace shorts by vivat veritas{DIY Lace Shorts}dear head{DIY clay deer head decor}DIY Distressed Boyfriend Denim2 by Vivat Veritas{DIY distressed denim from thrifted jeans}

Trips
I had a chance to visit Ho Chi Min City for our 7th year wedding anniversary and Philadelphia, D.C., NY and Hawaii. I much prefer to spend money on travel than buying things.

new world sigon breakfast1{Ho Chi Min city, Viet Nam}philadelphia city hall2{Philadelphia}DC2014-1{Washington, D.C.}写真 2 (3){Hawaii}

Personal + Family
My daughter turned three and we started to foster care a ten year old girl. Due to her circumstances, our foster daughter only comes once every three weeks now and mainly lives in a group home, but we are excited to see how this will develop.

cupcake shop birthday party by vivat veritas{Cupcake decorating party}

Wishing everyone a happy new year!! xo
今年のブログround upです。ウェディングドレス作りに専念し、自分のお洋服もたくさん作れた年でした。皆さん、よいお年を!
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