MADE | Ballet Leotard

little girls lace leotard w caption

Kiko recently started taking ballet lessons. She loves it. She gets to run around with other girls and she is enamored by all the girl clothes, and the little girl’s tutu leotard was no exception. I am a bit surprised by how much she is into tulle, dresses and pink since she spends a lot of time with Andy, who is all about boxing, weight lifting and other sorts of sweaty activity.

We went to her lessons a few times with just leggings and t-shirts, but all the other girls were dressed in pretty ballerina attire so I decided to make one for her. First thing I had in mind was to use up the fabric leftover I used to make jazz dance costume. I had a lot of white spandex fabric left over but I could not find it…I must have thrown them away during the move last year. So the only acceptable fabric for this project was the ivory stretch lace from this dress. It was an easy project and I am pleased with how it turned out. I like how it is a bit different from regular solid spandex leotard and I got to reduce the amount of ever growing fabric stash. girl leotard pattern drafting1

As for patterns, I started from Kiko’s bathing suit. I roughly traced the front and back of the bathing suit and added about an inch to the torso for length.

girl leotard pattern draftingHere are all the pattern pieces cut. There are only three: front, back and straps. Very simple! I can use this to make a bigger leotard by adjusting the base pattern when she grows out of this.girls leotard sewingThe leotard is fully lined with a skin color jersey. I first sewed the crotch for both fashion fabric and lining, then right sides facing, I sewed the leg hole (?) area. Before turning them inside out, I added the elastic bands in the seam allowances. I cut them an inch shorter than the length of the leg hole measurement, and stretched them a bit as I sewed. attaching tutu skirt to leotardI had some soft tulle left over from making this veil, so I cut them in long rectangle, gathered the top and attach it to the waist line. I still don’t like cutting and sewing tulle fabric. I get the urge to pull all my hair out whenever I have to deal with this fabric. It drives me crazy that there is no grain line and the fact that it rips so easily. little girls lace leotard4 little girls lace leotard1

This made me want to make Nettie bodysuit by Closet Case. I had seen Sonja and Inna made them and they look great on them. That is going to be the next project after I finish the silk Archer button up!lace leotard娘が最近バレエを始めたので、レッスン用のレオタードを作りました。
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MADE | Grainline Studio Archer Button Up Shirt

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas8 copyI know Archer sew-along has long been over, but I am proud to say that I made the shirt! It all started when I saw this equipment silk blouse. I know it is a simple button up shirt, but everything seemed so perfect – the fit, length, and fabric. However, I could not bring myself to pay $300 for a shirt even though it is silk and I’m sure I’ll get a lot of wear out of it. So I was in search for a perfect button up shirt pattern, something that is loosely fitted (not like an office lady blouse) without pleats, long sleeves and has pockets. Somehow I stumbled upon the Grainline studio’s Archer button up shirt pattern and it fit the bill!

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas6 grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas13

Although I was between size 0 and 2, I decided to just cut size 2 because I didn’t mind the shirt fit a bit loose on me. I did not make any modification at all. I was surprised how perfect it fit on me. The sleeve length was perfect. I often find sleeves too short when I buy retail clothes in Japan even for size large, so I was glad. The shirt length is good and covers my lower half which means I can wear it with jeggings as well. I might extend it by, maybe, two inches in length next time so I don’t have to keep tucking in the shirt when I wear it with a skirt. grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas10                                                                     {Kiko’s t-shirt made by me, blogged here}

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas9The fabric is from the Ho Chi Min city trip earlier this year. I was going to do a separate blog post about my day at the fabric market in Ho Chi Min, but I never got to. I only ended up picking this fabric because I was overwhelmed by the massiveness of the fabric market and no one seemed to have spoken English or Japanese. It was so much bigger than the Japanese fabric row in Nippori. I managed to buy two meters of this chiffon (most likely poly) and I’m sure I got ripped off. I don’t remember exactly, but I paid somewhere between 4 USD to 6 USD.

I thoroughly enjoyed following Jen’s sew-along. I really love her way of writing. It is clear and easy to follow. I especially loved this video post on how to attach the collar and collar stand on the shirt. I’ve made shirts before, but I did not know the easy way to finish attaching the collar stand in the inside of the garment. I always had to fight with the excess seam allowances. I am so glad I learned this method.

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas12 grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas11

Since the fabric is a light-weight chiffon, I had a hard time cutting the fabric. It slipped a lot and did not want to stay in place. Also sewing hems and pockets were challenging. In the sew-along, Jen just presses the 1/4 inches pocket seam allowances and attach to the shirt front, but I basted the pocket seam allowances, pinned them in place and sewed. I also basted the hem because it did not hold the iron press very well.

Overall, I am very pleased with my new closet addition. It makes me sad that Andy does not like it as much. He said “it is old woman-ish”. Maybe the floral print fabric? I don’t know. But I shan’t care because his favorite outfit of mine is sweat pants and white tank… Weird.

Next up is to make the same shirt in silk crape de chine! I bought this fabric and it was the most I spent on fabric for my own clothes. Thankfully I had some points saved up, so I only needed to pay extra 1000 yen (10 USD) out of my own pocket. The shop, called hideki is highly recommended because they ship quick and let you order fabric samples up to 10. I had something else in mind when I ordered the samples, but I was sold on this beautiful crape de chine when I saw the sample.

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas7grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas14

Details | pattern: Grainline Archer Button Up | fabric: polyester chiffon from Viet Nam | Size: 2 | Modification: None |Interface: Used organza, instead of iron-on interface
Outfit details | Shirt made by me, denim from here (I roughed up the knees), Booties from my elementary school age(!) and Madewell leather jacket.


たどりついた型紙はGrainline StudioというインディペンデントパタンナーさんのArcher Button Upというもの。



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Eclectic Blue Bridesmaid Dresses and Pocket Squares

alissa pocket squares

Something I made recently: Bright blue bridesmaid dresses and matching pocket squares. A customer from Australia ordered this dress, but wanted to add the heart shaped cutout. So we customized it accordingly!

Making pocket squares were fun, as I get to practice on mitered corner, my favorite way of finishing the napkins and handkerchief.

eclectic blue pocket squares vivat veritasEclecitc Blue Bridesmaid Dress via Vivat Veritas Blogalissa bridesmaid dress3 alissa bridesmaid dress1

Check out this short video (41 sec) of the dress in action! chie sig2{find me elsewhere: shopfacebooketsytwitterpinterestinstagram}

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