Random Things I Made | April 2016

What I Made April 2016 Vivat Veritas BlogHere is a round up of some random sewing I’ve done over the past few months. I am pretty quick to update these for my instagram account, but the photos in SLR sit longer, waiting to be blogged.

  1. Cream color kimono dress. I’ve gained some experience refashioning kimono fabrics over the past year (see here and tips on sewing kimono fabric), but this was my first time using real kimono instead of a roll, which is called “tanmono” in Japanese. I found it easier to use kimono despite the fact that you have to pick the seams. The already-made kimono has the pattern matching done for you, so it was quicker to figure out which patterns go to which part of the dress. Unpicking kimono seams was an interesting experience. Although most kimonos are sewn all by hand, I was surprised how strong the seams are. It seems like they use good thread. I am guessing they use silk thread. Looking inside the hand-sewn kimono was like looking into a treasure chest for a sewing geek like me.cream color kimono dress2. Orange Kimono Dress. The pattern is the same as the cream dress. The drapes in skirt adds an interesting twist for a simple I line dress like this. orange kimono dress3. Navy blue lace dress with a keyhole back modification. A customer asked more coverage than the original V-back version, so I suggested a subtle keyhole opening with a small button closure. The waist elastic is twisted in the second picture, but rest assured, I fixed it before shipping it to a customer!navy blue lace dress with key hole back3 smallnavy blue lace dress with key hole back navy blue lace dress with key hole back24. Another lace dress. Gray lace dress is lined with a contrasting pale pink fabric to show off the lace pattern. The neckline and armholes are finished with bias binding and stitched inward of the garment by hand. I love to add some couture details for a simple dress like this. gray lace dress with pink lining5. Lastly, here is what I made for a photo shoot back in Winter. Dark red corduroy dress with leather floral applique. I had a few broken needles while sewing leather appliques…I usually sew thin fabrics like organza and silk, so I am not used to adjusting my Juki for a thick fabric setting. Any advice in sewing leather?
    The fabric is the same as this skirtred corduroy dress by vivat veritas red corduroy dress by vivat veritas back view

I have a few items being put together now so I can update my closet for the warmer seasons! Like this white lace dress and pleated stripes midi skirt…More on my instagram.

P.S. Check out the random things I made in November 2015, September 2015, and August 2015.

最近作ったもの色々。
着物のリメイクドレスや、レースのワンピースなどを作りました。
着物のリメイクは、今までは反物から洋服のデザインに仕立て直しはしたことがあったのですが、
既存の着物からのリメイクは初めてでした。
やってみて分かったのは、反物からよりも、出来てある着物からリメイクした方が簡単だということ。
既存の着物は柄合わせが済んでいるので、糸をほどかなくてはならなくても、そんなに大変ではありませんでした。

春には自分用にボーダーのミディ丈のスカートや、
カジュアルにもドレスアップにも使えるジョッパーズなんかを作ろうと計画中。
随時instagramにもアップしていきます。

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MADE | Matching Stripes Bodysuit & Top

made matching stripes bodysuit and topSpring has finally come! I am so happy not to be bundled up with scarves, hats and all kinds of layers. My first Spring made item is this stripe bodysuit. I have been wanting to make a bodysuit for myself ever since Closet Case Files released the Nettie pattern. But instead of buying the pattern, I self-drafted it. I thought why bother to buy a pattern, print it out and put together the 20+ pages if it is just a top and underwear connected together. I was wrong. I quickly found out that a bodysuit pattern is much harder to draft than I expected. The top long-T part was ok; I wish I made the shoulder wider and armhole a bit bigger, but nothing terrible. The underwear part was the problem. If you make it too loose, it will not look right and will lose the bodysuit fit. I think the main attraction of a bodysuit is that you have a clean waistline. It looks less fussy than tucking in a shirt since bodysuit holds it down with snaps at the crotch.stripes body suit and levis 501 jeans2Top: Fabric is from Tomato knit section, Jeans: Levis 501
self drafted stripes body suitInitially, I made the bodysuit with full butt coverage like the above picture. When I tried it on, the panty line showed when I wore fitted skinny jeans, so I had to modify the bottom part to make it like a thong. I don’t really like wearing a thong so I want to know if there is any solution for a full butt coverage bodysuit that won’t show a line? Or should I just accept the fact that the line will show when worn with tight bottom and pair it with loose fitted skirt?

I have a mixed feeling about this bodysuit. Although I love the stripes (literally matches with pretty much everything in my closet!) and how French it looks, every time I go to the bathroom and have to remove the crotch snaps, I feel a bit dumb. Kiko commented, “mommy you look like a baby!” refereeing to a baby romper. Next time I make a bodysuit, I will certainly be using someone else’s patterns, like Nettie or Kommatia.
stripes body suit and levis 501 jeans1stripes top for a girl via vivat veritas blogThere is not much I need to mention about Kiko’s top. I made it with leftover fabric. The pattern is from a Japanese book, titled “Yuki Araki’s Girl’s Clothes (セレクト版 荒木由紀の女の子のお洋服), same as this panda dress. I had to shorten the sleeves and hem because of the lack of fabric. 

ボーダーのボディスーツを作りました。
ボディスーツは以前から作りたくて、暇さえあればと、うずうずしていたのですが・・・

意外と型紙作りが難しい!
ロンTの型紙と、パンツの型紙をつなげればいいんじゃないかと思っていましたが、うまい具合におなか回りをピタッとさせて、か、きつきつにならないように布の収縮具合を考慮して作るのは難しかったです。
自分で作った型紙は、いろいろ修正したい点がありすぎて、今後同じ型紙で作ることはないと思います。
市販の型紙でどうなるのか試してみたい・・・

ボディスーツの良いところは、Tシャツタックインと違っておなか回りがもたつかないことと、
腹巻効果で温かいことだと思うのですが、トイレに行くたびにぱっちんはずして、つけて、ってちょっと間抜けです笑

娘には赤ちゃんみたいだよって言われました。
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Sparkly Costume for J-Pop Singers

sparkly costume for jpop singers by Vivat VeritasLast year, I was asked to make the costumes for two J-pop singers’ re-debut. The group was originally made up of six girls, but they reduced the number to two. To celebrate the re-grouping, they performed at a live house in new outfits. I don’t have a much experience in sewing costumes save making myself a Halloween costume a few years ago. From that one experience, I learned that you have to use “costumy fabrics” in order to have the costumes stand out in a crowd or on the stage. The design that the singer’s PR company presented was relatively simple without extravagant decorations or a massive amount of boning. I’m thinking I could even use the same pattern and make a wearable romper for myself in the summer. I further refined the design and suggested the main fabric to be sequined paired with cape of all white fur.
j pop costume sketchHere is my sketch for the costumes. cape muslin for costumeAbove is the cape muslin. I drafted the pattern based on this pin. Then I made the cape with white fur and lined it with satin. The process required a surgical mask and vacuum cleaner…it created so much fuzz and mess! Every time I made a cut, I had to use the vacuum cleaner to remove the excess hair. I used velvet ribbon to tie in the center and added the straps on shoulder so the singers can use it to keep the cape in place while dancing. white fur cape and sparkly romper inside fur cape copy close up of romper costume fur cape inside the costumeBra cups are catch stitched inside. Underneath the sequined skirt, there is a white shorts attached. The sequined fabric almost destroyed my good scissors… I recommend using old pair or cheap ones when you have to cut sequins. sparkly rompers for j pop singers昨年末、某J-POPアイドルのコスチューム作りをお手伝いさせていただきました。
コスチュームは自分のハロウィン用に作った以来だったので、出来るかなーってかんじだったのですが、生地をコスチューム感たっぷりのキラキラにしたら、割と様になりました。

ファーのケープは型紙は作りは簡単だったのですが、裁断、縫製が毛だらけになって大変でした。
マスク着用、掃除機片手に毛と格闘してました。
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