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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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/ blogs / DIY / Tutorial | How to Make a Cotton Sack Dress

Tutorial | How to Make a Cotton Sack Dress

January 18, 2010 By Chie


Tutorial | How to Make a Cotton Sack Dress

I love working on custom orders. Custom orders are a lot of work since it often requires me to make something out of patterns I don’t have, but give me fun challenges. It is an opportunity to expand different variations and patterns of work.

I was recently asked to make a modification of this dress. Her request was to keep the big front buttons, add rolled up sleeves, and big pockets. Before I made one for her, I made one sample to make sure the patterns work. It turned out the dress was pretty simple to make. The dress can be adjusted to fit different sizes easily.
Although I added darts for the previous dress, this custom order dress has none. It is all straight line sewing.


You need measurements of your:
♥ shoulder to shoulder measurement (16″ for me)
♥ from your shoulder to the top of the bust measurement (mine was 9″)
♥ desired length of the dress (in this case, I made it for 34″)

Material:
♥ About 1.50m of fabric
♥ covered button kit
♥ invisible zipper

Pattern:
1. Top panels
♥ Take your shoulder to shoulder measurement (mine is about 16″), and add 3″ each side. So the total width of the top front panel is about 23″.
♥ The length of your top front panel is the measurement of your shoulder to the top of your bust.
♥ Now your have a rectangle fabric, 23″ ×9″. Cut two (one for front, and one for back)
♥ Adjust the neckline, you can make it like boat neck, or round neck.

2. Skirt panels
♥ Take the length of your shoulder to shoulder measurement (16″), and multiply it by 1.5. In my case, this is 24″. This becomes the width of your skirt panels, front and back.
♥ The length of your skirt panels should be (your desired length of the dress) – (length of your top panel). In this case, 34-9=25.
♥ Now you have a rectangle fabric, 24″ ×25″.
♥ Gather the top of this skirt panel fabric, and shorten it (gather) so it becomes your shoulder to shoulder measurement (16″). Then sew this into the top panel, leave 3″ both sides for the sleeve.

3. Pockets, roll up sleeves etc.
This is your preference. Make many different variations!

4. Zipper should be added to the back middle, and I would cut the back top and skirt panels 0.5″ longer so it has extra seem allowance for installing zipper.

Please link to this post if you make a dress from this tutorial. Happy sewing♥

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Comments

  1. RubyTed says

    January 18, 2010 at 1:14 pm

    Thank you for the tutorial! It's a beautiful dress! I can't wait to have a go!!

    Ali

  2. lunatepetal says

    January 18, 2010 at 5:21 pm

    very cute!

  3. Jo says

    January 19, 2010 at 3:25 am

    i think the tutorial is too hard for me.. but i love the dress… 🙂 do you think you will put it in your shop:)

  4. littlecottondresses says

    January 19, 2010 at 4:58 am

    Love the simple chic dress – thanks for the tutorial!

  5. Anonymous says

    January 19, 2010 at 5:46 pm

    At last, I found this post once again. You have few [url=http://tipswift.com]useful tips[/url] for my school project. This time, I won't forget to bookmark it. 🙂

  6. the guilty hyena says

    January 20, 2010 at 12:57 am

    they look good especially the shoulder arms

    @ The GUILTY HYENA †

  7. sulovessew says

    January 20, 2010 at 6:43 am

    thanks for sharing such a great tutorial, what kind of fabric will be suitable? I normally work with quilting cotton but i realize how wrinkly they tend to get.

  8. issa says

    January 20, 2010 at 8:43 pm

    such cute dresses!!

  9. vivatveritas says

    January 21, 2010 at 12:21 am

    thanks all for your comment!

    > jo
    sorry it's too hard – perhaps i'll make more detail post with step by step instruction.

    > sulovessew
    in the photos, i used medium weight cotton fabric. i would recommend using light weight – to medium weight cotton or linen, and avoid thick fabric:)

  10. Lucie says

    January 21, 2010 at 7:15 am

    Im just getting into this kind of thing – the tutorial is so helpful, thankyou!

    Lucie
    tasteslikevogue.blogspot.com

    xxxx

  11. atia says

    January 21, 2010 at 10:48 pm

    thanks, this is a great dress, will definitely try it out!

  12. vivatveritas says

    January 21, 2010 at 11:35 pm

    hi lucie and atia, thanks for your comment! i'm looking forward to seeing your version of the dress:)

  13. Anonymous says

    January 28, 2010 at 1:13 pm

    I love this type of dress and I've been trying to figure out a pattern for one, so thank you! Do you have any tips on making the sleeves?

    Claire x

  14. vivatveritas says

    January 28, 2010 at 2:09 pm

    hi claire, hmmm tips on making sleeves, it's pretty simple, because you dont have to put a separate sleeve.the sleeves are connected to the front panel.

    good luck making! let me know if you have any questions:)

    • Megan S. says

      February 17, 2012 at 12:27 pm

      This is so adorable! I’m a little confused on the sleeves though too (I’m a beginner lol). Would you be able to explain to me what you mean by “leave 3 inches for the sleeves” when you’re sewing the top panel to the dress part? I’m sure you’ve explained it properly and I’m just confused. And also, in your above comment reply, are you saying that the sides of the panels (the 3 inches on each side) actually become the sleeves? Or do we make the sleeves out of entirely different pieces of fabric and sew them on? Sorry if those are ridiculous questions… just learning and love this dress : ) Great job!

      • Chie says

        February 19, 2012 at 6:12 pm

        Hi! Thank you for your comments. I’m sorry that this tutorial is a bit confusing. I’ve written this a while ago..I should post a step by step instructions with pictures! I’ts in my to-blog list:)
        Anyway, there are no separate pieces for sleeves. Sleeves are similar to kimono or raglan sleeves, and it is connected to the front panel. I hope this makes sense..I will work on the instruction photos soon.

  15. J.S says

    May 3, 2010 at 11:50 pm

    Do your measurements include seam allowances?

  16. vivatveritas says

    May 4, 2010 at 6:19 am

    J.S., no, it does not include seam allowance.

  17. Ainsley says

    May 9, 2011 at 11:26 pm

    super duper cute! i love this dress!

  18. Liza A. says

    May 10, 2011 at 7:02 am

    I just came thru this post, had no idea why I didn't read the post 🙁 hmm…the dresses looks very me =) simple and comfortable. Had to try this!! Thank you for the instructions and i love the navy blue dress 🙂

  19. Sewing Tutorials Library says

    September 21, 2011 at 10:16 am

    Love this dress! I’m adding your link today to Sewing Tutorials Library. You have such a beautiful sense of style, such an inspiration!

  20. Cassie says

    March 26, 2012 at 4:36 pm

    Hello, I have been contemplating on attempting this for a while now, and I was just wondering what type of fabric would be best for this project?

    Thank you,
    I am really excited to make this.

    • Chie says

      March 27, 2012 at 9:25 am

      Hi Cassie! Thank you for your comment! In the photo, I used cotton blend. It was a medium weight. I have not tried to make this dress in lighter or heavier fabric yet, so I can’t make any suggestion for those. I think nice medium weight cotton or linen would be nice!

  21. dedeyez says

    July 31, 2012 at 9:10 am

    Do you think you will ever post a detailed tutorial with pics? I’m a beginner seamstress and that would really help me out a lot. Thanks!

    • Chie says

      July 31, 2012 at 9:32 pm

      Hi, I’m sorry I’ve been meaning to do it but never got to it. This tutorial was written two years ago and I lost motivation..

  22. Tui says

    March 17, 2013 at 9:16 am

    If I was turning this pattern into a maternity pattern would I just add extra length in the front panel?

  23. Tui says

    March 17, 2013 at 9:16 am

    Ohhhh and width??

    • Chie says

      March 17, 2013 at 4:18 pm

      I would add width!

  24. maize says

    July 31, 2013 at 8:46 pm

    Just saw this on Buzz Feed and it’d be awesome if there was a step by step tutorial. 🙂 Thanks!

  25. Simone says

    September 12, 2016 at 12:03 pm

    Is this dress suitable for a beginning sewer

    • Chie says

      September 23, 2016 at 11:21 am

      I think so as it involves mostly straight sewing; however, please note the instructions are pretty minimal as I did not do step-by-step instructions.

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My name is Chie. I design and make custom wedding dresses in Tokyo, Japan. Read More…

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このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠 一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシル このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠

一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシルクは風を通して、歩くたびに裾がふわりと揺れます♪

後ろ姿には、着物の袖だった部分を使っていてお尻の部分の花柄が上下逆さまになっています👻最初は迷ったけれど、これはこれで面白いなと思ってそのまま残しました🫶🏻

一点ものなので、この一本だけ。気になる方はプロフィールのリンクから見てみてください♡

This silk is so light, perfect for the hot season 🫠

I made these wide-leg pants from a kimono✂️ The thin silk lets the breeze through, and the hem sways softly with every step ♪

The back is made from what used to be the kimono sleeves, so the floral pattern on the hips ends up upside down👻 I wasn’t sure at first, but honestly it grew on me, so I left it as is 🫶🏻

One of a kind, just this one pair. If you’re curious, the link is in my profile ♡

#着物リメイク #kimonoremake #正絹 #一点もの #和柄 夏の装い ワイドパンツ
数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。 今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプ 数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。

今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプトに合わせて、@redyeingproject さんに黒染めをお願いしました。

Helen x Vivat Veritasのイベントにベンダーとして出展してくださったご縁から生まれたコラボレーションです。

「服を捨てる前に、黒染めという選択肢を。」
色あせた服を、グラム単位の染め直しで蘇らせる——そんなコンセプトに強く共感しました。

天然素材のシルクスカート部分は深く美しい黒へ。
シャンティレースの部分は、少し緑がかった表情のある色に変化しました。

一着を長く着続けるための、小さな選択。
Before / Afterの写真、ぜひご覧ください🩷🖤

A silk dress I made a few years ago.

For this ""Released. Reimagined."" concept, I asked @redyeingproject to dye it black.

This collaboration grew out of a connection made when he joined the Helen x Vivat Veritas event as a vendor.

""Before you throw it away, consider black dyeing.""
His concept — reviving faded clothes through by-the-gram redyeing — really resonated with me.

The silk skirt, a natural fiber, transformed into a deep, beautiful black.
The chantilly lace took on a subtly greenish tone.

A small choice, in service of wearing one piece for longer.
Take a look at the before/after photos🩷🖤

黒染め
@redyeingproject

Photographers
@nothing_special_88
@japanphotographer_

Model
@sienna.christinaaa

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up and videos
@glam_by_jyoti

#黒染め #RedyeingProject #ReleasedReimagined #着物リメイク #サステナブルファッション
これを着て、カフェに行ったら絶対目立ちそう😆☕ アップサイクルで生まれた、新しいファッションの形。 これを着て、カフェに行ったら絶対目立ちそう😆☕

アップサイクルで生まれた、新しいファッションの形。
コーヒー豆袋のジャケット × 着物リメイクのセットアップ。

一枚一枚、生地の柄合わせから縫製まで、すべて手で仕上げています🪡🧚
実はこの着物、裏地にも別布を仕込んでいて、羽織ると初めて見える色があるんです♡

ヴィンテージ素材に眠っていたストーリーを、
もう一度誰かの日常に届けたくて作りました。

If you wore this to a café, you'd definitely stand out 😆☕

A new form of fashion, born from upcycling. A coffee bean sack jacket × a kimono-remake set-up.

Every single piece is finished entirely by hand, from matching the fabric patterns to the sewing itself 🪡🧚 Actually, this kimono has a different fabric worked into the lining too — there's a color that only reveals itself once you put it on ♡

I wanted to give the stories sleeping in vintage materials a chance to become part of someone's everyday life again.

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Model
@emorylove33

Jewelry
@viviange

Make up
@elanoramua

#アップサイクルファッション #着物リメイク #サステナブルファッション
実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレ 実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレンと話す中で、これも一緒に見せようと決めました。

ヘレンと3週間近く一緒に準備を進める中で、コレクションの作り方、見る人を楽しませる魅せ方、ルック全体の組み立て方など、本当にたくさんのことを学びました。自分一人だったらこのルックスを入れる決断はしなかったと思う。誰かと一緒に作ることで見えてくるものがあるんだなと、改めて実感しました。
ヘレン、ありがとう♡

Honestly, I wasn't sure whether to include this piece in this show. It was something I'd made a while back. But talking it through with Helen, we decided to show it together after all.

Working with Helen for almost three weeks to prepare for the show, I learned so much — how to build a collection, how to style looks that engage an audience, how to put together a look as a whole. I don't think I would have made the decision to include this piece if I'd been on my own. Creating something together with someone else really opens your eyes to things you wouldn't see alone.

thank you Helen @designerhelen♡

Model @izumi_nishida

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#KimonoUpcycled #SustainableFashion #DesignerCollab #着物リメイク #ものづくり
お客様からお預かりした大切な帯。 大切に保管されていた帯ほど、実は「日常でどう使えばいいかわからな お客様からお預かりした大切な帯。

大切に保管されていた帯ほど、実は「日常でどう使えばいいかわからない」という声をよく伺います。だからこそ、その帯の物語を読み解きながら、現代の暮らしに馴染むデザインに仕立て直すことを意識してます😌

パッと見にはわからないけれど、実は使いやすさを追求した仕掛けが隠れています。

ショルダーを付ければ、両手が空くアクティブなスタイルにも対応👜

あなたの思い出の帯も、こんな風に日常の相棒にしてみませんか?

A precious obi entrusted to me by a client.

I often hear people say they aren't sure how to incorporate their cherished obis into their daily lives. That is exactly why I focus on reading the story woven into the fabric and reimagining it into a design that fits modern living😌

There are hidden details that make this bag truly functional, even if you can't see them at first glance. By attaching the shoulder strap, it becomes the perfect hands-free bag for an active lifestyle👜

#upcycledfashion #着物リメイク #obibag #remake #sustainablestyle
飛行機と電車の中で作ったジャケットです✈️🚆 去年の夏の3週間、アメリカとヨーロッパを旅しながら、 飛行機と電車の中で作ったジャケットです✈️🚆

去年の夏の3週間、アメリカとヨーロッパを旅しながら、座席でひたすらチクチク🪡着物の裏地にキルト芯を挟んで、フリーハンドで刺し子して、日本に帰ってから染めました。

This jacket was made on airplanes and trains✈️🚆

Over three weeks last summer, traveling through the US and Europe, I stitched away in my seat🪡 
Kimono lining sandwiched with quilt batting, sashiko stitched freehand, then dyed after I got back to Japan.

Model
@kana_nakar

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Nails
@ms_muse_nail

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#kimonoupcycle #sashiko #sustainablefashion #ReleasedReimagined
#刺し子
お客様から届いたステキな帯を、オーダーメイドのリュックにアップサイクルしました✂️ 吉祥文様が織り お客様から届いたステキな帯を、オーダーメイドのリュックにアップサイクルしました✂️

吉祥文様が織り込まれた錦の帯地は、黒地に金・白・紫…と、見る角度によって表情が変わる贅沢な一品。その美しさをそのまま活かしながら、毎日持ち歩きたくなる使いやすいリュックに仕立てました。内ポケット付きで、実用性もしっかり。

受注制作についてはプロフィールのリンクよりお問い合わせください💌

A client’s treasured obi has found a new life as a custom-made backpack✂️

The brocade fabric, woven with auspicious Japanese motifs, shifts from gold to white to violet depending on the light, a truly luxurious textile. I tried to preserve its beauty while crafting it into a backpack you’d actually want to carry every day. Complete with interior pockets for real-world practicality.

For custom orders, visit the link in our profile 💌

#KimonoUpcycle #SlowFashionJapan #WearableHeritage #着物リメイク #帯リメイク
着物リメイクをするとき、どうしても捨てられてしまうことの多い裏地。 薄手のシルクの手触り、もったい 着物リメイクをするとき、どうしても捨てられてしまうことの多い裏地。

薄手のシルクの手触り、もったいなくてサマーワンピースに生まれ変わらせました。

そのままでは物足りないのでアーティストの Riko Monma @rikoshurimonmaさんに染め直しをお願いしたら、一気に息を吹き返しました✨

数年前に作ったこの一着、今回の @designerhelен とのイベントで、コレクションに加えることにしました。

Helenからは色の組み合わせについていろいろアドバイスをもらって、自分だけでは絶対に辿り着けなかったような配色を試してみたり。準備の時間も、とても楽しかった😌

The lining of a kimono — often discarded when the fabric is remade into something new.
That soft, lightweight silk felt too good to let go, so I turned it into a summer dress. It needed something more, so I asked artist Riko Monma to dye it for me — and suddenly it came alive again.

I made this piece a few years ago, but for the recent event with @designerhelena, I decided to bring it into the collection. Helen gave me so much guidance on color — combinations I never would have arrived at on my own. The whole preparation process was just really, really fun😌

Model
@bethenny.x

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Nails
@ms_muse_nail

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#着物リメイク #キモノアップサイクル #KimonoUpcycle #SustainableFashionTokyo #ReleasedReimagined
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