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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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MADE | Ginger Skinny Jeans View B

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ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas1My first handmade jeans (Ginger Skinny Jeans View B from Closet Case Files) are complete! After about 10 hours of sewing and battling with the machines, they are finally done and they are wearable. Pretty good for the first try and considering that I didn’t make a muslin! The sewing of the jeans would have gone smoother if I could have gotten the thread tension right with #20 jeans thread. I just could not make that work in my industrial Juki sewing machine or Janome home sewing machine (I use Thread Banger). The only way it worked was to use the regular thread on top and jeans thread on bobbin for my Juki, and the opposite for Janome. It was really a goofy way of sewing and it took forever since I had to change thread constantly.

Size: According to the measurement chart, my waist was size 4 and hip was 6. I merged two sizes when cutting out the patterns, but after basting the pants together, butt area felt a but loose so I recut the pattern to size 4 all together. After installing pockets and fly zip front though, size 4 felt a bit too tight. Maybe because of all the additional layer of pockets and front. So I sew the waist with 5/8″ seam allowances and hip and all the leg parts with 3/8″ seam allowances.
I have store bought jeans that fit in the hip area fine but the waist is too wide, so I can’t wear them without a belt. These Ginger jeans seem to work really well and the sizes in waist and hip are perfect.
Fabric: I wish I had chosen a fabric with more stretch. Mine is a black denim with 98% cotton and 2% polyurethane. It was labeled as “stretch denim” but the stretch is very minimal. One down side of ordering fabrics online is you can’t actually touch and feel the fabric. I ordered stretch twill with 5% stretch, and am hoping that will work better for this patterns.
Installing rivets: I bought black rivets to match the black jean button, but I could not make them work. I’m sure I annoyed our neighbors with my knocking and smashing sound late at night. I’m thinking of bringing them and my jeans to Okadaya, where I bought the rivets and ask them to install them.
Pattern modification:
None. I am surprised how well it fits without any modification.
Modifications to make in the future:
1. Shorten the length of the jeans by 3cm so that the hem of the jeans hit the ankle. I like the slightly cropped length. Right now it scrunches up at the ankle a bit. I’m sure the patterns meant to do it or not. I’m not terribly tall so it might be just my legs are shorter than normal. I’m 5’4″.
2. Either raise the pocket placement up to 1-2cm or shorten the pocket length by 1-2cm. I feel like the pockets extend too long (down till the end of my butt cheeks). It would look cleaner with shorter back pockets. This blog says the same thing.
3. I’m not sure if you can tell by the pictures, but my fly front does not lay completely flat. Perhaps change the button hole placement? There is a room for improvement.

ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas7

I wore this outfit to my friend’s birthday party last weekend. We went to a restaurant in Ginza called Lavarock (ラヴァロック). It was a lovely place and we ended up staying for three hours. Unfortunately, after eating a burger, I was uncomfortable sitting with these jeans on since the fabric is not so stretchy. I had to keep changing my leg position and kept kicking the birthday girl who sat in front of me. I’m hoping that overtime, the denim will get softer.

ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas2Outfit details | cropped top and jeans made by me,Cardigan from Andy’s grandpa, Rag and Bone Harrow Booties.ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas3 ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas5 ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas4 ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas6

洋裁を始めてから８年近く経っていますが、初めてジーンズを作りました。
パターンはインディーデザイナーのCloset Case FilesのGingerというもののViewB。
ハイウエストのスキニージーンズです。
サイズは４。

工業用ミシン、家庭用ミシン、ロックミシンの３つのミシンを使って作りました。

生地が、２％ポリウレタンが入ったストレッチデニムだったのですが、この型紙にはちょっと硬すぎたかなと反省。
立っているときはいいのですが、座ったり、足を曲げたりすると、ちょっと苦しい・・・

次回は５％ポリウレタンが入った白のコットンツイルで作ろうと思っています。

chie sig2

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Comments

    • Chie says

      I hope so too. I’ve worn them a few time since this post and will be washing it tomorrow! I hope they won’t shrink.

  3. Annie says

    Oohhh — the fit looks spot on and using a bottom weight with more stretch should help. I haven’t had the guts to try jeans yet but these want to make me try!

    • Chie says

      Thank you Annie! I thought sewing jeans would be difficult, but by following the sew-along, it was not bad! The sew-along with a lot of pictures really helped.

  4. Novita says

    Beautiful! The fit is just perfect! I also love that you make them in black, it is such an inspiration.
    I used to use Prym jeans buttons and rivets, they have white plastic holders (like this: https://www.flickr.com/photos/verypurpleperson/5953553700/). I don’t use their buttons and rivets anymore, but the plastic holders are very useful. I used them with jeans buttons and rivets from Okadaya and they work perfectly!

    • Chie says

      I saw the Prym buttons in Okadaya! It turned out that I bought wrong rivets (not for jeans, but for leather accessories and stuff), so my rivets were not suitable for thick layers. Thank you for the info Novita!

  6. Susan says

    Your Gingers look great! I love the black. I just finished mine (first time ever too) and I had some of the same issues you did. Funny after seeing your review of your industrial Juki I really wanted one! I ended up trying an Atlas version that is a brand new make. It’s supposed to be the exact same as the Juki 9000…it’s close but not exact. I did read that you most often have to do topstitching thread in the top and regular thread in the bobbin with almost all machines. But since my Atlas has something wrong and won’t go very slowly, I had to use a different machine for the topstitching and my Atlas for the construction. My pockets were also too low so I moved them up but they are so close to the yolk seam now. Oh well! And I couldn’t get my rivets on, or my button. I kept smashing them to bits. My husband was able to do it with one try but I don’t think I have enough rivets left so I only did one like my favorite RTW jeans have. I might buy more rivets.

    • Chie says

      Hi Susan, I love my Juki 9000! I totally recommend it…although I am not entirely sure why I could not get the jeans thread to work. I adjusted the pattern so that I’m using size 6 pocket placements for back pockets although I am size 4, and shorten the back pocket length by 5mm. Hopefully the next pair of jeans will be better!

    • Chie says

      Thank you so much Reana! Yes the pockets felt too long for me. I shortened it by 5mm and placing them 1cm up for my next pair!

  10. Sophie says

    These are just so so hot! I cannot believe you got that fit on their own without modifcations. Was great to read your tips. Beautiful job! xx

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