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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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Juki Industrial Sewing Machine DDL-9000SS Review

February 6, 2013 By Chie

DSC_0375 copy As I wrote in this post, I bought a new sewing machine! It is a Juki industrial sewing machine, DDL-9000SS with CP160 Servo Moter. I thought I’d write a review – I’ve only been using it for a less than two weeks, so I still have a lot to learn but here are my initial thoughts:

Model: 9000SS

I had the hardest time deciding whether to go for one of the Juki’s older models, the 5551, 5570 or 8700. They were cheaper, and I heard that industrial sewing machines last for a while, even the older models if you take a good care of them. But at the same time, I’ve heard that Juki no longer produces parts for older models, so if it broke, I would have hard time finding the necessary parts. This was a concern to me since I know nothing about fixing sewing machines. I am terrible with anything mechanical. I don’t even know how to change a light bulb!

That is most of the reason I went for the newest model from Juki, the 9000 series.

9000 is a direct-drive machine, so the head of the sewing machine is very heavy. The dealer took the machine to the second floor of my place, but because of the narrow stares, he had to take the head off the machine and carry the table and the head separately.

Why Juki?

No particular reasons, except that I have a Juki serger. I thought I’d match.  I think Juki and Brother are the two major industrial sewing machine manufacturers, and I’ve seen the designers use Brother industrial sewing machine on Project Runway. I got Juki because if something happens to my machine, I can contact one manufacturer, instead of two different ones 🙂

Speed

It goes up to 5000 stitches/minute. If it is running in the highest speed, it is so fast! I am concerned that I will break a needle because it is that fast. Adjusting the speed is very easy with this machine. It is almost like home sewing machine. You can adjust the speed with the foot pedal, but also adjust the maximum speed at the thing on the computer panel on the right side of the sewing machine. I usually set it in the medium, but it still goes very fast.

Motor

During  the search for the industrial sewing machine, I learnt that there are two different motors for industrial machines: clutch motor and servo motor. Mine has servo motor and I am very pleased by that. I hear that it is very difficult to control the clutch motor, it is like driving a stick shift. I haven’t even driven a stick shift before (there are two different driver licenses in Japan! stick shift license and automatic one), so naturally I went for servo motor. With servo motor, machine works just like home sewing machine. It is very easy to control the speed.

Automatic thread cutter

I love this feature. By pressing the pedal deep on the ankle side, the machine automatically cuts the tread short and lifts the sewing foot. I did not know what a time saver it was until I started using it. It is also nice not to have a bunch of thread cluttering your sewing table.

DSC_0385 copy

Needle

Industrial sewing machines use different needles from home sewing machines. It uses a needle called DBx1. The shape is different, as it is all round, but has a dent on the side shaft. I struggled a bit trying to change the needle. It is really important to have the dent on the right side, and the top of the needle touches the ceiling of the place you insert the needle. For some reason, I could not get its head touch the ceiling even if I pushed, so I ended up tightening the screw for the needle without properly inserting the needle. This caused the bobbin thread stitch to skip, and I had to redo it. I feel like the needle breaks much easier with the industrial sewing machine, with small things, like touching the hard plastic part of the invisible zipper or something. I get nervous every time I break a needle until I find every broken piece. If it gets in the bobbin case or somewhere near down there, that will damage all those metal parts which will eventually cause the need for sewing machine repair.

Where I bought it

I bought my machine from this guy. He runs the second hand industrial sewing machine shop, sells sewing notions online, and sells shrimps and oranges. That’s so random. He said he used to own a sweatshop, but because many brands use factories overseas for cheaper labor costs, he had to close down his factory. After the close-down, he started a business of buying second-hand industrial machines from factories in Japan, repairing them, and selling them online. His shop is located in Kumamoto, Kyusyu island, but he delivered my machine himself, set it up in my studio, and taught me how to use it. I am very pleased by his service. Other second-hand industrial sewing machine dealers did not deliver by themselves, rather they use a regular shipping company like Yamato, so when the sewing machine arrive you will have to know how to set it up or have the sewing mechanic come in. After my sewing machine’s break down, I wanted little to do with machine trouble. So I do recommend this place. He only speaks Japanese by the way.

DSC_0388 copy

Light

Unlike the home sewing machine, there is no built-in light. Thankfully my dealer attached a florescent light right above the sewing foot area, which makes it easy to see. It is just a small thing, but it counts!

I have a lot more to say, but will save it to another post!

4/23/2014 UPDATE: Here is a short video of Juki DDL-9000ss so you can see the machine in action!

ChieSignature

Mommy’s Diary: Little Girl’s Ruffle Apron

February 1, 2013 By Chie

mommy's diarykiko apron

One of the toys that Kiko enjoys the most now is her tea set.  She has tea pot, stove, saucers, tea cups, and spoons. She pretends to pour the tea, stir and serve it to us..it’s the cutest thing! I made this apron for her so she can use while she plays with her tea set.

I had about half a meter of this blue cotton fabric left over, so I cut small square for the bust part, and rectangle for the skirt part. The edges are finished with stripes bias tape I made out of some scraps.  I made this using my new industrial sewing machine, which works so fast.

playing with tea set by vivat veritas 630kids apron and tea set by vivat veritas630kiko apron round by vivat veritas630

What is your child’s favorite toy?ChieSignature

Sketch Everyday 2

February 1, 2013 By Chie

fashion sketch everyday 1 by vivat veritasAlthough I wrote in my last “Sketch Everyday” series post that I will be practicing sketching everyday, the reality is I didn’t. Sometimes the life gets in the way – There were 2 or 3 days in a row that I didn’t touch my notebook. But then there were a few days that I sat, drew and drew, unable to stop. I think I am beginning to figure out the fun of drawing. Like the last time, I am still copying the sketches from the Pattern Drafting book, but I also have a few that are my original 🙂 I’m so proud!

fashion sketch everyday 2 by vivat veritas

The dress on the left is something I am thinking of making for the Spring. Mix of plaid or tweed dress accented with solid black in shoulder and side. The sketch on the right is a diagram I was drawing to show how to take measurements. You can see I miss-spelled “measure”… :p

colorful pens by vivat veritasFor coloring, I just borrow Kiko’s pens and coloring pencils. I recently found out that there are such things as “watercolor pens“. Those seems like a cool tool to use. I am not so advanced yet, but am considering the purchase in the future. It saves all the hassle of setting up the watercolor paints, brushes and all that.

fashion sketch everyday 3 by vivat veritasfashion sketch everyday 4 by vivat veritas The above two are not original. I imitated them from the book, Make Your Own Dress Patterns.

Novita mentioned that she draws using computer. Do any of you recommend fun apps or programs to use for drawing with computer?

ChieSignature

 

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これを着て、カフェに行ったら絶対目立ちそう😆☕ アップサイクルで生まれた、新しいファッションの形。 これを着て、カフェに行ったら絶対目立ちそう😆☕

アップサイクルで生まれた、新しいファッションの形。
コーヒー豆袋のジャケット × 着物リメイクのセットアップ。

一枚一枚、生地の柄合わせから縫製まで、すべて手で仕上げています🪡🧚
実はこの着物、裏地にも別布を仕込んでいて、羽織ると初めて見える色があるんです♡

ヴィンテージ素材に眠っていたストーリーを、
もう一度誰かの日常に届けたくて作りました。

If you wore this to a café, you'd definitely stand out 😆☕

A new form of fashion, born from upcycling. A coffee bean sack jacket × a kimono-remake set-up.

Every single piece is finished entirely by hand, from matching the fabric patterns to the sewing itself 🪡🧚 Actually, this kimono has a different fabric worked into the lining too — there's a color that only reveals itself once you put it on ♡

I wanted to give the stories sleeping in vintage materials a chance to become part of someone's everyday life again.

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Model
@emorylove33

Jewelry
@viviange

Make up
@elanoramua

#アップサイクルファッション #着物リメイク #サステナブルファッション
実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレ 実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレンと話す中で、これも一緒に見せようと決めました。

ヘレンと3週間近く一緒に準備を進める中で、コレクションの作り方、見る人を楽しませる魅せ方、ルック全体の組み立て方など、本当にたくさんのことを学びました。自分一人だったらこのルックスを入れる決断はしなかったと思う。誰かと一緒に作ることで見えてくるものがあるんだなと、改めて実感しました。
ヘレン、ありがとう♡

Honestly, I wasn't sure whether to include this piece in this show. It was something I'd made a while back. But talking it through with Helen, we decided to show it together after all.

Working with Helen for almost three weeks to prepare for the show, I learned so much — how to build a collection, how to style looks that engage an audience, how to put together a look as a whole. I don't think I would have made the decision to include this piece if I'd been on my own. Creating something together with someone else really opens your eyes to things you wouldn't see alone.

thank you Helen @designerhelen♡

Model @izumi_nishida

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#KimonoUpcycled #SustainableFashion #DesignerCollab #着物リメイク #ものづくり
お客様からお預かりした大切な帯。 大切に保管されていた帯ほど、実は「日常でどう使えばいいかわからな お客様からお預かりした大切な帯。

大切に保管されていた帯ほど、実は「日常でどう使えばいいかわからない」という声をよく伺います。だからこそ、その帯の物語を読み解きながら、現代の暮らしに馴染むデザインに仕立て直すことを意識してます😌

パッと見にはわからないけれど、実は使いやすさを追求した仕掛けが隠れています。

ショルダーを付ければ、両手が空くアクティブなスタイルにも対応👜

あなたの思い出の帯も、こんな風に日常の相棒にしてみませんか?

A precious obi entrusted to me by a client.

I often hear people say they aren't sure how to incorporate their cherished obis into their daily lives. That is exactly why I focus on reading the story woven into the fabric and reimagining it into a design that fits modern living😌

There are hidden details that make this bag truly functional, even if you can't see them at first glance. By attaching the shoulder strap, it becomes the perfect hands-free bag for an active lifestyle👜

#upcycledfashion #着物リメイク #obibag #remake #sustainablestyle
飛行機と電車の中で作ったジャケットです✈️🚆 去年の夏の3週間、アメリカとヨーロッパを旅しながら、 飛行機と電車の中で作ったジャケットです✈️🚆

去年の夏の3週間、アメリカとヨーロッパを旅しながら、座席でひたすらチクチク🪡着物の裏地にキルト芯を挟んで、フリーハンドで刺し子して、日本に帰ってから染めました。

This jacket was made on airplanes and trains✈️🚆

Over three weeks last summer, traveling through the US and Europe, I stitched away in my seat🪡 
Kimono lining sandwiched with quilt batting, sashiko stitched freehand, then dyed after I got back to Japan.

Model
@kana_nakar

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Nails
@ms_muse_nail

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#kimonoupcycle #sashiko #sustainablefashion #ReleasedReimagined
#刺し子
お客様から届いたステキな帯を、オーダーメイドのリュックにアップサイクルしました✂️ 吉祥文様が織り お客様から届いたステキな帯を、オーダーメイドのリュックにアップサイクルしました✂️

吉祥文様が織り込まれた錦の帯地は、黒地に金・白・紫…と、見る角度によって表情が変わる贅沢な一品。その美しさをそのまま活かしながら、毎日持ち歩きたくなる使いやすいリュックに仕立てました。内ポケット付きで、実用性もしっかり。

受注制作についてはプロフィールのリンクよりお問い合わせください💌

A client’s treasured obi has found a new life as a custom-made backpack✂️

The brocade fabric, woven with auspicious Japanese motifs, shifts from gold to white to violet depending on the light, a truly luxurious textile. I tried to preserve its beauty while crafting it into a backpack you’d actually want to carry every day. Complete with interior pockets for real-world practicality.

For custom orders, visit the link in our profile 💌

#KimonoUpcycle #SlowFashionJapan #WearableHeritage #着物リメイク #帯リメイク
着物リメイクをするとき、どうしても捨てられてしまうことの多い裏地。 薄手のシルクの手触り、もったい 着物リメイクをするとき、どうしても捨てられてしまうことの多い裏地。

薄手のシルクの手触り、もったいなくてサマーワンピースに生まれ変わらせました。

そのままでは物足りないのでアーティストの Riko Monma @rikoshurimonmaさんに染め直しをお願いしたら、一気に息を吹き返しました✨

数年前に作ったこの一着、今回の @designerhelен とのイベントで、コレクションに加えることにしました。

Helenからは色の組み合わせについていろいろアドバイスをもらって、自分だけでは絶対に辿り着けなかったような配色を試してみたり。準備の時間も、とても楽しかった😌

The lining of a kimono — often discarded when the fabric is remade into something new.
That soft, lightweight silk felt too good to let go, so I turned it into a summer dress. It needed something more, so I asked artist Riko Monma to dye it for me — and suddenly it came alive again.

I made this piece a few years ago, but for the recent event with @designerhelena, I decided to bring it into the collection. Helen gave me so much guidance on color — combinations I never would have arrived at on my own. The whole preparation process was just really, really fun😌

Model
@bethenny.x

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Nails
@ms_muse_nail

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#着物リメイク #キモノアップサイクル #KimonoUpcycle #SustainableFashionTokyo #ReleasedReimagined
生地をよく見ると、お姫様が👸 金彩の御所車、菊、そしてひっそりと佇む姫。 裾に宿ったまま、また別 生地をよく見ると、お姫様が👸

金彩の御所車、菊、そしてひっそりと佇む姫。 
裾に宿ったまま、また別の人生を歩みだしました♡

Released. Reimagined. — Helen Castillo @designerhelen x Vivat Veritas 

Look closely at the fabric — there’s a princess👸

A gilded royal carriage, chrysanthemums, and a maiden standing quietly in the shadows. Still living in the hem, she steps into another life♡

Model
@_kasumi.y

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

Nails
@ms_muse_nail

#着物リメイク #御所解 #KimonoRemake #TokyoFashion #ReleasedReimagined
@allpress_espresso のコーヒーバッグで作りました☕️ Cafés do Bras @allpress_espresso のコーヒーバッグで作りました☕️

Cafés do Brasil 豆を運んでいた頃の文字が、そのままジャケットの背中に残っています。
着物だけでなく、面白い来歴のある生地をもっと取り入れていきたいと思っています✂️
素材:コーヒーバッグ × 着物シルク

Made from a coffee sack sourced from @allpress_espresso.

Cafés do Brasil — the stamp from its days carrying beans stays right there on the back. 

Kimono fabric has always been at the heart of what I do, but I want to bring in more materials with a history — things that have traveled, carried weight, meant something before they became a garment.

Materials: coffee sack × kimono silk

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Model
@emorylove33

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#upcycledfashion #sustainablestyle #coffeesack #wearablestories #ReleasedReimagined
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