DIY

Bellows Pocket Tutorial

November 7, 2015 By Chie

The last time I made a chambray Archer button up, I modified the original pockets to bellows pockets with flaps. This was my first attempt to make bellows pockets and was surprised how easy they were. You just need to be precise with the measurements and pressing, and the rest come together nicely. I like bellows pockets for the functionality (my iPhone fits in my pocket easily!) and sporty vibe. I took some photos while sewing and here is a quick tutorial on how to make them.
First you need to modify the pattern. Start with pocket pattern without any seam allowances on the sides and bottom. You can keep the top seam allowances as they are (usually folded over twice) but make sure to clip as pictured above to avoid bulk. For sides and bottom, first add for “gusset” width. I added 3cm all around. Then add 1cm seam allowances, so you will be adding 4cm around on sides and bottom.

Fold the top twice, press well and stitch. Here is the tricky part. Fold the bottom corner diagonally, meeting the pressed line you made in step 3. It’s similar to making a mitered corner. Before you pin the pocket to the shirt, I would transfer the line for pocket placement with a tailor’s chalk so you will know exactly where to place the pocket.

Like this tutorial?

Check out the tutorial on how to sew bluff-stitched patch pocket.

マチ付きポケットの作り方です。
これは帯を別布にするのではなく、１つのポケット生地として裁断するやり方です。
アイロンをきちっとすると、意外と簡単に、綺麗にできます。

ちょっとスポーティ感をプラスしてくれるポケットなので、色々なアイテムにつけてアレンジできそうです。

Tutorial | Watson Bra Racer Back Variation

August 31, 2015 By Chie

Turn Watson Bra into Racer Back Version!

I’m so excited to share the tutorial for this racer back bralette variation of Watson bra! This is my third attempt to make Watson bra by Cloth Habit. You can see my first (black lace) and second bra attempts(apple print). This time, I made it with white stretch lace and changed the back to be racer back without hooks and eyes. It’s a pretty simple modification and a quick sew!

I made the Watson bra regular version (not long line version) but I bet you can make the racer back modification in long line version without problem. Here is what I did:

Make the front version as the pattern instructions state. As I did for my first two bras, I added lining in the bra cups with power net and inserted bra cups so the bra is not sheer.
For the back, instead of using the Cloth Habit pattern, I cut the stretch lace in the same length as the front length. Adjust so that the side seams match. Using french curve, draw a curved line making the center back length a bit shorter than the side seams. I finished the top seam with elastic band and scallop part of the same lace.
For the neck strap, I cut the lace 46cm including 5mm seam allowances. Attach the neck strap to the top of the triangles of the bra cups.
Here is the step-by-step pictures of how I made the straight line down the back. Cut the same stretch lace for 9cm. Cut two.
Fold the lace you cut in step 4 in half, with right sides facing.
Sew the diagonal line shown in the picture. Trim the seam allowances and press them open.
Sew two of what you made in step 6 together.
Add the elastic band in the center using zigzag stitch.
Now you have the pointy hourglass-ish shape, sew it on to the center of the neck strap and the center of the back.
That’s it! Please comment if you have any questions. I’d love to see your version of racer back Watson! Please share it on instagram, twitter or facebook and tag me the pictures:) I made another racer back (sneak peak), and will be sharing the pictures soon.

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レーサーバックブラを作りました。
パターンは３度目のCloth Habit Watson Bra Pattern。
後ろはフックではなくスポブラの様なつくりにして、被るタイプに変更。
夏場に背中の空いたお洋服を着るとき便利です。

Before & After | Maternity Dress to Peplum Top

August 14, 2015 By Chie

Most of you know how much I like quick refashioning – it is a great way to update your wardrobe without putting in much effort. I still like making clothes from scratch but I can’t deny the instant gratification that quick DIY projects provide.

Here is another “old” piece my friend gave me. It was never worn and it is from Max Mara! I’m sure it cost 3-500 dollars. She said it was too potato sack-y for her and I kind of agree that the shape is rather unflattering. Initially my thought was to make a skater dress like this, but I quickly realized that I didn’t have enough fabric. It’s hard to gauge how much fabric I have when it is in an already constructed clothes form. So I had to change the plan mid way and turn it into a peplum top. Considering how much wear I’m getting from this peplum top, I didn’t mind the change of plan 🙂

I forgot that stripes (especially wide stripes) require more fabric…sigh. I made this little peak-a-boo cutout in the back not really on purpose but because of the lack of fabric. But I think it turned out ok!
The fabric shed a lot so as soon as I cut, I added the iron-on interface and surged the seam allowances. P.S., Check out more Before & After like this here, here and here.

洋裁をしていることを知っている友達からは、よくいらなくなったお洋服のドネーションをしていただきます。
これはMax Maraのワンピース。
たぶん高かっただろうな。。。１度も着ていないらしい、とっても状態が良いワンピースです。
簡単な作りで、ほとんどダーツとかも入っていなかったので、作りやすかったですが、ボーダーなのは盲点でした。
ボーダー合わせに結構悩みました。

ぺプラムトップスはちょっと食べ過ぎてもぽっこりお腹が隠れて好き♪

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