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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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Simple Updates for My Summer Wardrobe

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Do you wear jewelry when you sew? 

AU-Rate gold ring lingerie sewing

It might seem strange but I purposefully keep my hands decorated while sewing. Unless I am dealing with delicate lace, where there is a possibility of damaging the fabric, I ornament my hands with the rings while sewing. It helps keep me motivated while sewing. There is a special connection between a seamstress and their hands so placing added emphasis on the main tools of my trade, my hands, is really helpful. also, when working on a piece one needs to keep in mind that they are creating something of beauty. how better to do that than to keep that one part of yourself that you focus on while sewing, beautiful?

lingeri sewing panty
lingerie sewing stretch lace
lace lingerie sewing

Over the past few years, I’ve collected rings and bracelets. Although I love big statement pieces, for daily wear, My bread and butter staple is stacking multiple delicate gold pieces. If you choose a 14k or vermeil option, they won’t tarnish like gold plated pieces. I recently added this heart shaped eternity ring to my gold ring collection. 

AU-Rate gold ring vermeil
au-rate gold stackable rings

My Shibuito Mode, Kimono dress fashion show was last week and I will be posting some photos soon, but in having finished that big time and energy event, I decided to take a few days to work on a few things for myself. Lingerie, yay! I’ve attempted to sew bras in the past (here and here), but this is my first attempt at panties! Odd considering how much I sew that I’ve not spent more time on this kind of thing…But, as it turns out panties are quick and fun. The stretch stripe fabric was a left over from a kit I bought at Merckwaedigh. I just took sample patterns from what I already own, but I’ve seen great options online that are downloadable at Orange Lingerie. 

*This blog post is in collaboration with Nakturnal.

MADE| Merckwaerdigh BHS10-D

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my first attempt to sew underwired braLast year when I visited Philadelphia, I stopped by at Madalynne studio to take a private bra sewing lesson. We started with Merckwaerdigh BHS10-D (size 75A), but due to lack of time, were unable to finish. Since coming back to Japan, I completely forgot about this UFO (UnFinished Objects) and did not pick it up until after close to a year had passed! I am happy that I’m done with the project now but this is one item I won’t be able to wear. It does not fit me at all. I can’t lie, I had some doubts when I originally decided on making an underwire bra. I have not worn bra with underwire for almost 10 years. I have been wearing soft bras (this, this and this) without wire or camisole that comes with bra cups. I said good bye to underwire bras a long time ago when I realized that I don’t have big enough boobs :(……. but looking at beautiful bras that Novita makes, I decided to give it a go.
inside of bra merckwaerdigh bhs10merckwaerdigh bhs10 size aI had to pull out my old home sewing machine since the instructions called for zigzag stitches which my industrial sewing machine does not offer. I had hard time adjusting the thread tension and some stitches look wonky. The wire channel installment was easier than I thought. I had to cut mine so it fit the bra size. I bought a bra kit from Merckwaerdigh on etsy, and small notions like wire, hook and eye and sliders at the Japanese site Jimura.

Besides some uneven stitches, the bra looks pretty; however, when it is on my body, the underwire moves around and the cup looks flat on my chest. I might need a bra cup inserted.
merckwaerdigh bhs10 size A by Vivat VeritasHere is a short video showing my bra.

ワイヤー入りブラを作りました。
型紙はこちらから。

サイズは75Aです。
ランジェリー作りは少しの生地で出来るので楽しいです。
ただ、せっかく作ったのに、サイズが全く合いませんでした。
ワイヤー入りが合わないのかも。残念！
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Closet Case Files Carolyn Pajamas in Silk

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Closet Case Files Silk Pajama1 copyI made silk pajamas! After making my Ginger Jeans (white version here), I became a big fan of Closet Case Files patterns. The jeans fit pretty well for me and the high waisted version is more flattering to my body than most store bought jeans. So, when a friend asked me to make silk pajamas for her friend’s wedding gift, I immediately thought of Carolyn pajama patterns.With so many cheap versions out there (like this GU one), I wanted to make it special by crafting it in pure silk satin.

The fabric used is beige silk satin. I made my own pipping with some white silk left over from making wedding dresses. That was the recommendation from the pattern instructions, so the width of the pipping can match the seam allowances, which is 1.5cm in this case.

From putting together the patterns to finishing two pajamas took a long time…about 17 hours. One of my goals of 2016 was to keep track of my work hours in excel in order to up my efficiency. Silk satin slips around a lot so cutting it on proper grain was a challenge. I mostly used a rotary cutter and a mat to cut the fabric and interface. Closet Case Files Silk Pajama2 Silk Carolyn Pajama Closet Case Files Close UpsSilk PJ feels so luxurious! I am not sure how they will care for it since silk satin loses the shine once you wash it with water, but I am assuming this is for a special occasions. Any thoughts? Closet Case Files Carolyn Pajamas by Vivat Veritas Carolyn Pajama Closet Case Files3For a men’s version, I used BurdaStyle Men’s Pajama Set 12/2010 #134. It is almost identical to Carolyn PJ patterns. The only modifications are to omit drawstring waist and added a pipping cuffs on pants hem. Unlike Closet Case Files pattern instructions, BurdaStyle’s instructions are like reading foreign language at times…I had to just guess and figure out. 

Here is the picture of pants fly with hidden pocket for men’s PJ pants. BurdaStyle Mens Pajama Set 122010 134 Closet Case Files Carolyn Pajamas by Vivat Veritas Gift結婚プレゼント用に、男女お揃いのシルクパジャマを作りました。
素材は100％シルクのサテン。
ベージュに白のパイピングでクラシカルな雰囲気のパジャマが仕上がりました。
型紙は女性用はCloset Case Files Carolyn Pajama、男性用はBurdaStyle Men’s Pajama Setを使いました。
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