pants

Gray Sweatpants from a Japanese Pattern Book

April 30, 2015 By Chie

I sewed up these comfy sweatpants just in time for all the fun outings for Golden Week! In Japan, there is a series of national holidays from the end of April to beginning of May, called Golden Week. It feels as though we have a perfect weather without fail during this holiday every year – it’s dry, warm but not too cold or hot. We have some fun plans as a family so I made myself these sweatpants that can be worn outside.

The patterns are from a Japanese pattern book, called Otona no pants to skirt (Pants and Skirts for Adults (大人のパンツとスカート). I borrowed the book from a local library. Since I saw the Hudson patterns by True Bias, stylish sweatpants have joined the list of “to-sew”. Look at Heather with these cool sweatpants! I was going to buy the patterns but I happened to come across with this book at the library so I decided to use it instead of Hudson.

Once you trace the patterns, the cutting and sewing are super easy and quick. I made a pair without any modification (E-2, long version) first. It ended up way too big for me. From behind, it looked like I had an elephant butt 🙁 So I gave that to Andy (we match!) and they fit him well. These ones I’m wearing are my second try. I took in about 12 cm all around the hip area. They are loose enough to be comfortable but not too baggy. I also shortened the length by 4cm.

What I love about these pants are the huge pockets! There is a pleat in pocket piece and it drapes nicely. I can fit all kind of stuff here.

Both sweatpants fabric and the rib I used for waistband and ankle bands are from Tomato (日暮里トマト) in Nippori. I bought them on the second floor, knit section.

I wore this to a casual meeting the other day.
Shoes: Shop Anthom, Jean jacket: thrifted, Silk shirt: Made by me (blogged here), Necklace: H&M, Watch: Michael Kors

ゴールデンウィークですね！
色々外で遊ぶ予定があるので、スエットを作りました。

型紙は「大人のパンツとスカート」から、E-2フルレングスのジョッパーズ。
こういう、さきがしゅんっとしてるスエット、探してたのでちょうど良かったです。
本当に簡単に縫える型紙です。
慣れちゃうと１時間で作れます。
私は３着縫ったので、３つ目作るころにはプロでした♪

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MADE | Ginger Skinny Jeans in White Twill

March 13, 2015 By Chie

I want to show you my second attempt at making skinny jeans (Ginger Skinny Jeans View B from Closet Case Files)! This time the sewing was much quicker than the first time. Mostly because I did not bother to change the thread to a top stitching thread. Since the fabric I used was stretch twill instead of denim, it was much easier to sew. No broken needles this time!

I’m pleased with the result and have worn them a bunch of times already. We will see how long these pair will last as I have had to replace my white skinnies almost every year in the past due to stain and stretch. I already made a mistake of riding Andy’s rode bike with these and got oil stain on one leg… Bleach killed most of the stain but I hate having to care for the perfect whiteness.

Here is my mood board for the white jeans.

Size: Previously, I cut size 4 in waist and 6 in hip, but ended up re-cutting the fabrics in size 4 all together. So this time again, I made size 4 with 5/8″ seam allowances as the pattern instructions suggest.

Fabric: I used 5% stretch twill in white. I bought it on Rakuten, here (Japanese only). It is definitely thinner than regular denim fabric and the stretch denim I used for my first Ginger jeans. I think these pants will be great for Spring, but am not sure if I can survive winter.

Modifications: There are a few modifications I made this time.

1. Shorten the length of the jeans by 3cm. It worked out great for 5’4″ myself. I might shorten my next pair even further to make them a cropped length.

2. I raised the pocket placement up for 1 cm and shortened the pocket length by 1cm. I like the result much better than my last pocket placement on these.

Cons: Do you see the fly front is slightly tilted on the left side? I have no idea why it happened and it bothers me greatly.

Here is an embarrassing butt shot… But you can see how well these jeans fit me.

So what’s next? I am thinking of making military skinnies with khaki stretch twill like this and this, by adding big pockets with tabs on the side and ankle zippers.

ホワイトジーンズを作りました。
生地は楽天で買ったストレッチツイル。
薄手ですが、パンツが見えるほど薄手でもなく、良い生地です。
パターンは使うのが２度目のCloset Case FilesのGinger JeansのView B。
２度目なので、スムーズに作れました。
丈は３ｃｍほど短くして、後ろのポケットの位置を１cmぐらい上げました。

春に活躍しそうなホワイト、作って良かった♡

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MADE | Ginger Skinny Jeans View B

January 15, 2015 By Chie

My first handmade jeans (Ginger Skinny Jeans View B from Closet Case Files) are complete! After about 10 hours of sewing and battling with the machines, they are finally done and they are wearable. Pretty good for the first try and considering that I didn’t make a muslin! The sewing of the jeans would have gone smoother if I could have gotten the thread tension right with #20 jeans thread. I just could not make that work in my industrial Juki sewing machine or Janome home sewing machine (I use Thread Banger). The only way it worked was to use the regular thread on top and jeans thread on bobbin for my Juki, and the opposite for Janome. It was really a goofy way of sewing and it took forever since I had to change thread constantly.

Size: According to the measurement chart, my waist was size 4 and hip was 6. I merged two sizes when cutting out the patterns, but after basting the pants together, butt area felt a but loose so I recut the pattern to size 4 all together. After installing pockets and fly zip front though, size 4 felt a bit too tight. Maybe because of all the additional layer of pockets and front. So I sew the waist with 5/8″ seam allowances and hip and all the leg parts with 3/8″ seam allowances.

I have store bought jeans that fit in the hip area fine but the waist is too wide, so I can’t wear them without a belt. These Ginger jeans seem to work really well and the sizes in waist and hip are perfect.

Fabric: I wish I had chosen a fabric with more stretch. Mine is a black denim with 98% cotton and 2% polyurethane. It was labeled as “stretch denim” but the stretch is very minimal. One down side of ordering fabrics online is you can’t actually touch and feel the fabric. I ordered stretch twill with 5% stretch, and am hoping that will work better for this patterns.

Installing rivets: I bought black rivets to match the black jean button, but I could not make them work. I’m sure I annoyed our neighbors with my knocking and smashing sound late at night. I’m thinking of bringing them and my jeans to Okadaya, where I bought the rivets and ask them to install them.

Pattern modification:

None. I am surprised how well it fits without any modification.

Modifications to make in the future:

1. Shorten the length of the jeans by 3cm so that the hem of the jeans hit the ankle. I like the slightly cropped length. Right now it scrunches up at the ankle a bit. I’m sure the patterns meant to do it or not. I’m not terribly tall so it might be just my legs are shorter than normal. I’m 5’4″.

2. Either raise the pocket placement up to 1-2cm or shorten the pocket length by 1-2cm. I feel like the pockets extend too long (down till the end of my butt cheeks). It would look cleaner with shorter back pockets. This blog says the same thing.

3. I’m not sure if you can tell by the pictures, but my fly front does not lay completely flat. Perhaps change the button hole placement? There is a room for improvement.

I wore this outfit to my friend’s birthday party last weekend. We went to a restaurant in Ginza called Lavarock (ラヴァロック). It was a lovely place and we ended up staying for three hours. Unfortunately, after eating a burger, I was uncomfortable sitting with these jeans on since the fabric is not so stretchy. I had to keep changing my leg position and kept kicking the birthday girl who sat in front of me. I’m hoping that overtime, the denim will get softer.

Outfit details | cropped top and jeans made by me,Cardigan from Andy’s grandpa, Rag and Bone Harrow Booties.