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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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jeans

MADE | Ginger Skinny Jeans View B

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ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas1My first handmade jeans (Ginger Skinny Jeans View B from Closet Case Files) are complete! After about 10 hours of sewing and battling with the machines, they are finally done and they are wearable. Pretty good for the first try and considering that I didn’t make a muslin! The sewing of the jeans would have gone smoother if I could have gotten the thread tension right with #20 jeans thread. I just could not make that work in my industrial Juki sewing machine or Janome home sewing machine (I use Thread Banger). The only way it worked was to use the regular thread on top and jeans thread on bobbin for my Juki, and the opposite for Janome. It was really a goofy way of sewing and it took forever since I had to change thread constantly.

Size: According to the measurement chart, my waist was size 4 and hip was 6. I merged two sizes when cutting out the patterns, but after basting the pants together, butt area felt a but loose so I recut the pattern to size 4 all together. After installing pockets and fly zip front though, size 4 felt a bit too tight. Maybe because of all the additional layer of pockets and front. So I sew the waist with 5/8″ seam allowances and hip and all the leg parts with 3/8″ seam allowances.
I have store bought jeans that fit in the hip area fine but the waist is too wide, so I can’t wear them without a belt. These Ginger jeans seem to work really well and the sizes in waist and hip are perfect.
Fabric: I wish I had chosen a fabric with more stretch. Mine is a black denim with 98% cotton and 2% polyurethane. It was labeled as “stretch denim” but the stretch is very minimal. One down side of ordering fabrics online is you can’t actually touch and feel the fabric. I ordered stretch twill with 5% stretch, and am hoping that will work better for this patterns.
Installing rivets: I bought black rivets to match the black jean button, but I could not make them work. I’m sure I annoyed our neighbors with my knocking and smashing sound late at night. I’m thinking of bringing them and my jeans to Okadaya, where I bought the rivets and ask them to install them.
Pattern modification:
None. I am surprised how well it fits without any modification.
Modifications to make in the future:
1. Shorten the length of the jeans by 3cm so that the hem of the jeans hit the ankle. I like the slightly cropped length. Right now it scrunches up at the ankle a bit. I’m sure the patterns meant to do it or not. I’m not terribly tall so it might be just my legs are shorter than normal. I’m 5’4″.
2. Either raise the pocket placement up to 1-2cm or shorten the pocket length by 1-2cm. I feel like the pockets extend too long (down till the end of my butt cheeks). It would look cleaner with shorter back pockets. This blog says the same thing.
3. I’m not sure if you can tell by the pictures, but my fly front does not lay completely flat. Perhaps change the button hole placement? There is a room for improvement.

ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas7

I wore this outfit to my friend’s birthday party last weekend. We went to a restaurant in Ginza called Lavarock (ラヴァロック). It was a lovely place and we ended up staying for three hours. Unfortunately, after eating a burger, I was uncomfortable sitting with these jeans on since the fabric is not so stretchy. I had to keep changing my leg position and kept kicking the birthday girl who sat in front of me. I’m hoping that overtime, the denim will get softer.

ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas2Outfit details | cropped top and jeans made by me,Cardigan from Andy’s grandpa, Rag and Bone Harrow Booties.ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas3 ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas5 ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas4 ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas6

洋裁を始めてから８年近く経っていますが、初めてジーンズを作りました。
パターンはインディーデザイナーのCloset Case FilesのGingerというもののViewB。
ハイウエストのスキニージーンズです。
サイズは４。

工業用ミシン、家庭用ミシン、ロックミシンの３つのミシンを使って作りました。

生地が、２％ポリウレタンが入ったストレッチデニムだったのですが、この型紙にはちょっと硬すぎたかなと反省。
立っているときはいいのですが、座ったり、足を曲げたりすると、ちょっと苦しい・・・

次回は５％ポリウレタンが入った白のコットンツイルで作ろうと思っています。

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Six High Waisted Jeans Inspirations

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Andy’s Grandmother bought me Ginger Jeans Patterns from Closet Case Files for Christmas and I’ve recently started working on them. This will be my first pair of handmade jeans and I am very excited. When I first started sewing back eight years ago, I didn’t think I could make jeans!

Of the many jeans patterns that are out there, I was most attracted to Ginger Skinny Jeans Patterns because of the View B: high waisted version. Sallie‘s white skinny jeans look so good!

Last week, I made a trip to Okadaya in Shinjuku and bought rivets, jean buttons and a denim zipper. I bought the fabric online at Otsukaya Netshop (大塚屋ネットショップ). It is a black denim with 98% cotton and 2% polyurethane. It was labeled as “stretch denim” but now that I have it in hand, it might not be enough stretch for skinny jeans. We will see.  The thread is Fujix Jeans Stitch #20 (フジックスジーンズステッチ２０番)from here.
I’ve collected a few images to get myself motivated to sew high-waisted jeans. I think they would look great paired with cropped sweaters, bustiers or bodysuits. What is your first 2015 sewing project?
クリスマスプレゼントとして、ジーンズの型紙を頂いたので、早速作製始めました。
ジーンズを作るのは初めてで、とっても楽しみです！
洋裁を始めたころは、ジーンズが縫えるものだなんて思ってもみなかったので、新しいマイルストーンを超えられるような気がしてうれしい。
型紙を購入した、こちらのサイトでは、縫い方が詳しく載っているので安心して作れそうです。

how to wear high waisted jeans inspiration board by vivat veritasSources: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6
More on my Fashion Inspiration board in Pinterest

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DIY Distressed Denim from Thrifted Jeans

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DIY Distressed Boyfriend Denim by Vivat Veritas

I’ve only owned one pair of jeans until today, and I am happy to announce that I added another, much more comfortable pair! I’ve never been a jeans and t-shirt kind of girl. I find flowy dresses far more comfortable than skinny jeans. But after watching this DIY video, I became obsessed with the thought of  distressing jeans. Somehow, the thought of plucking threads with tweezers to make the denim distressed seemed so soothing.. in reality, however it hurt my hands.

I picked up these mom jeans from 390 mart (サンキューマート) in Harajyuku. Everything in the store is 390 yen, which is about 4 USD. Here are the before and after pictures – The jeans in before picture were comfortable, but very momsy!
Before and After of DIY Distressed Denim by Vivat VeritasDIY Distressed Boyfriend Denim Process1

Here is how I turned the mom jeans in to distressed boyfriend jeans. First cut the hem. I marked the line with a pen right above my ankles. I wanted the cuffed look and I wasn’t going to hem it. If you are planning on hemming, cut an inch longer.  DIY Distressed Boyfriend Denim Process2

Then I flipped the jeans inside out, took in 5 cm from each sides to make the jeans tapered look. I figured it would be easier to roll up the hem with tapered look than straight cut. I sewed the sides and serged them.

After this, to make a distressed look, I cut two lines in parallel on knees and pull the vertical threads (blue ones) with tweezers. I was pulling the threads so vigorously I forgot to take pictures!  This was a bit time consuming and creates a mess. It took me about an hour to finish both knees. I placed one a bit higher. Once this is done, turn the jeans inside out and wash them with cold water to make the hems and distressed parts look more frayed.DIY Distressed Boyfriend Denim2 by Vivat Veritas DIY leather choker by vivat veritas

Andy said he liked this look, which took me by a surprise! While we were shopping at 390 mart, I told him my plan of making the jeans “boyfriend jeans”. He pretended that he understood what I was talking about, but I later found out he had no idea what I meant by “boyfriend jeans”!
Pink Dress Kiko

Kiko always wants to join me in the photo taking sessions…
Temporary Tatto by Vivat VeritasThe day we went to Harajuku happened to be the day of Fashion’s Night Out by Japan Vougue. So at Monki, they were giving away fake tatoos. Kiko got a lip mark on her arm and I got a wrist tattoo.

原宿竹下通りにある３９０マートで買ったバギージーンズ（死語？）をリメイクして、ボーイフレンドジーンズにしてみました。
やっぱり自分のために洋服作ったりリメイクするのは楽しい！

最近自分の洋服づくりの時間が取れてなかったので、新しい仲間がワードローブに加わってうれしいです。

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