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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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/ Archives for sewing

sewing

How I learned to Sew

March 8, 2015 By Chie

how i learned to sew vivat veritasReading the recent blog post by Rachael (House of Pinheiro) on “What do you do to become a better sewist?”, it got me thinking about the question I get asked often: “How did you learn to sew?”. When people find out that I sew wedding dresses, they often ask this question. I tell them I learn most about sewing through resources online and books. I never went to fashion school or couturier school. I have a bachelors degree in journalism which turned out to be totally useless in the line of work I do. I tell them that I learned how to install invisible zippers by googling “how to install invisible zippers” and just doing it many times. Usually, people react with disbelief…

What most people don’t realize is the amount of time I put into sewing. When first starting I sewed for hours every day. I still do. At first it took me three nights to sew a simple dress. I was confused most of the time. The thread tension was wrong, I didn’t know that you needed a special foot to install an invisible zipper. I didn’t have a serger so my seam allowances were not finished. But I kept making more pieces, each time improving little by little. Once I figured out how to make a simple dress, I moved on to making more complicated things like jackets, coats, shirts, wedding dresses and most recently jeans, just like schools would have you do in different classes.

I took piano lessons for 13 years from age 6 to 19. I think my mother wanted me to be a concert pianist. It turned out that I didn’t and I stopped playing the piano when I moved out of my parents’ home. My mother thought it was such a waste. She put in money, effort, all the driving me back and forth to piano lessons and her daughter just gave up like that. However, I do not think it was a waste at all. From all those years of lessons, I learned the importance of practice and the importance of not giving up. Although I no longer play the piano daily, the understanding that “practice makes perfect” stuck with me.

What worked for piano also works for sewing. I kept sewing and sewing, and trying my hand at other crafts (pattern drafting, draping, knitting, sketching, crocheting, embroidery etc) to better my skills and although you don’t see the immediate result, looking back you will see how much you improved! Most good things in life like marriage, child raising etc. come with practice and patience as well, right?

When I first started selling clothes online, nobody bought my clothes. It made me a bit sad, but Andy encouraged me to keep going, so I sewed more, posted new creations online, figure out how to have better photos and slowly, some people took interest. Those people who bought from me helped me learn even more by requesting custom clothes. You get to experience sewing for different shapes and what’s better, they are paying for you to learn!

“Experts have said it takes 10,000 hours of hard work to become an expert seamstress” (Quote from Ten Thousand Hours of Sewing…). Read “Outliers” from Malcom Gladwell and be encouraged to keep sewing or doing whatever you are trying to learn (I listened to the audio book). Every time I am tempted to sit on the couch and browse through Pinterest for hours, I remind myself that every little bit of effort counts. Instead of sitting in front of the TV, I sit in front of my sewing machine and keep sewing.

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Filed Under: blog, blogs, FAQ Tagged With: sewing

Importance of Planning Out a Sewing Project

January 19, 2015 By Chie

importance of planning out a sewing project by vivat veritasI wish all my handmade clothes were great and got a lot of wear but unfortunately that is not the case and this dress is certainly not on the favorites list. I think one thing that makes clothes become a go-to in your closet  (whether you make it or buy it at the store), depends on how well you plan. Almost every time I binge buy clothes or binge make them, it fails.

I made dress on a whim one night when I didn’t have any urgent project on my schedule. I had  left over knit from this sweater and decided to make a body-con knit dress. Considering how much wear I got from this white body-con dress over the Summer, I was sure that this would be something I would be wearing over and over again this Winter. While I was cutting out the fabric, I realized that I did not have enough fabric to cut the sleeves. My initial plan was to make this dress in a long sleeve version but I had to change mid way through.
Also since I made it in a rush (it was supposed to be an instant glorification), the neckline did not lay flat, especially in the back. It bothers me greatly.
The next day, I put on the dress, but when I saw myself in the mirror, I realized I hated the color. I like light gray color, a blue-gray or gray that is very close to white, but not this dark gray… My hair blends in with the dress and I look like a member of Adam’s Family.
I should have known the importance of planning for a sewing project, considering how much I put time on initial planning, sketching, sourcing the fabrics for making wedding dresses (you can see what I made in the past here). I think about how to construct the dress, in what order, what technique and sometimes I see myself in my dream sewing the dress. Once everything is completely clear, planned out, I start sewing. It usually goes well when I do that. Same goes for shopping for clothes or accessories. The items I covet for months before buying are the ones that I cherish for a long time. Lesson’s learned!handmade gray bodycon dress by vivat veritas1 handmade gray bodycon dress by vivat veritas2 handmade gray bodycon dress by vivat veritas3Outfit details | knit dress made by me,H&M Cardigan, Rag and Bone Harrow Booties, Forever21 belt, Thrifted clutch. handmade gray bodycon dress by vivat veritas4
新しい洋服作りを始めるのに、計画性をもつことは本当に大事ですね。
このグレーのドレスは、ちょちょっと作りたくて、急いで仕上げてしまったのですが、やっぱり手を抜くと色々なところが着てみて気になるものです。
例えば、色は実はあまり好きじゃないグレーだし(余り布だったのでこれしかなかった)、ハイネックの後ろの部分はちょっとぼこぼこしてるし、冬服なのに布が足りなくて、ノースリーブという、なんか余り使えないワンピになってしまいました。
ウェディングドレスを作るときは周到に計画するのに、自分の服になると結構手抜きして時間も布も無駄にしてしまうことが多いので反省です。
chie sig2
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Filed Under: blog, blogs, creation, dress, 日本語 Tagged With: handmade, knit dress, planning, sewing

MADE | Butterick 4610 Camel Wool Coat

December 18, 2014 By Chie

butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas

Now this year’s coat sewing is done! I love my new coat. This is a bit lighter than the coat I made last year since the fabric is thinner. It is still warm enough if you layer some clothes and I think I’ll be able to survive the Tokyo winter just fine.

After making two muslins (one of which is wearable), this coat came out pretty quick. I enjoyed working with wool. I get a great joy out of fusing the wool! That sounds so weird but if you sew, I’m sure you understand.

If you are interested in making a similar coat, here are the facts:

Pattern: Butterick B 4610
Size: I blended the size 6 and 12.
Adjustment: Skipped the patch pockets and added the inseam pocket between front panel and side front panel. I also lengthened the jacket by 23 cm below the waist line. The front hem is cornered, instead of round in the original pattern or my pink jacket. Finally, I did the narrow shoulder adjustment by 1cm each side.
Fabric: camel wool fabric. The exact content is unknown since it was from the sale’s section.
Lining: polyester satin in matching camel color.
What I would have done differently: Add the side pockets in between front and back side panels, instead of between front panel and side front panel. When I button up the coat, the pockets open up in a weird way. Or I would add a welt pockets across the front and side front panels. Another thing is the length. I was able to extend the original pattern length by only 23cm since I had a limited fabric, but I would have liked knee length coat.

butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas4butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas2

Outfit details | Shirt: made by me (Grainline Studio Archer Button up), Sweater: thrifted, Jeans: Uniqlo, Necklace: Moose and Nigel, Booties: Rag and Bone Harrow Booties
butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas3butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas5Bound button holes! I followed this tutorial.

butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas6Here is what the inside of the coat looks like. butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas7I’ll be making the most out of this coat this winter! I like that it goes well with my skin color and hair color. I tend to wear black and gray a lot in the winter, and my face looked so dull. I didn’t know why until I read Sonja‘s comment on my pink jacket post about the correlation between hair color and the clothes color. Since my hair is very dark, when I wear dark colors, I look like someone from Adam’s family.

♡Check out the muslin for this coat // Inspiration post for the coat♡

今年の冬のコート出来上がりました♪
前回作ったピンクのジャケットと同じ型紙を使い、さらに丈を5センチ伸ばして作りました。
本当は膝丈コートにしたかったのですが、セールで買ったこのキャメル色のウール、150センチ幅で1.5メートルしかなかったので、5センチ伸ばしてぎりぎりでした。
結果は大満足♪少しウールが薄手なので、袖をくしゅくしゅと巻くって、ホワイトジーンズなどはけば春先にも行けそうです。
次は、ダッフルコート縫ってみたいな。
chie sig2

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Filed Under: blog, blogs, creation, jacket, winter, 日本語 Tagged With: butterick, butterick4610, coat, sewing, tailoring

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大正から昭和初期、若い女性たちの間で流行した銘仙。 かすりの技法を用いた平織りの絹織物で、さらりと 大正から昭和初期、若い女性たちの間で流行した銘仙。

かすりの技法を用いた平織りの絹織物で、さらりとした軽い着心地と、鮮やかな色柄・大胆なデザインが特徴です。

境界がにじんだような風合いと、鮮やかで大胆な色使い🌈

独特のにじみは、たて糸とよこ糸をわずかにずらして織ることで生まれます。

自分の一枚を自由に楽しむために生まれた、女性たちの心意気そのもののような布。その大胆さをそのままに、クロップ丈のキャミソールとまとうラップパンツで、今の暮らしにも映える一枚へ仕立て直しました。

Photographer @capturetokyo
Model @yaos.aisai 
Make up and hair @mami_hmua

Meisen — the kimono fabric that swept through fashion among young women in 1912 to the early 1930s.

A plain-weave silk textured with a kasuri (ikat) technique, prized for its light, breezy feel and its bold colors and daring patterns.

That soft, blurred-edge quality comes together with vivid, fearless color combinations 🌈

The signature blur comes from weaving the warp and weft threads slightly offset from one another.

This fabric was born from women’s desire to wear something entirely their own — it carries their spirit of freedom in every thread. Keeping that same boldness intact, I’ve remade it into a cropped camisole and wrap pants that drape and move with you — a piece that fits naturally into everyday life today🧚

 #KimonoUpcycled #MeisenSilk #VintageJapan #着物リメイク #銘仙
和のかたちを、新しい日常へ。 一本の帯を丁寧にほどき、普段づかいできるワンショルダーバッグへと仕立 和のかたちを、新しい日常へ。

一本の帯を丁寧にほどき、普段づかいできるワンショルダーバッグへと仕立て直しました🌸

見た目からは想像できないほどの収容力。ハサミや糸、リッパー、ペンチ…制作道具もすっぽりまとまって収まります✂️✨入れるのは私だけだと思うけど😆

内側の裏地も可愛い♡

一本の帯が、誰かの日々をまとう相棒に生まれ変わりますように。

From tradition, into everyday life.

One obi, carefully unstitched and reborn as a one-shoulder bag for daily wear🌸

It holds far more than it looks — scissors, thread, a seam ripper, pliers… all my sewing tools tucked neatly inside✂️✨ Though I’m probably the only one who’d pack it like this😆

The lining inside is a little secret I’m quite fond of♡

#帯リメイク #着物リメイク #DIY #アップサイクル #制作動画
金色に輝く森は元は着物の羽織でした👘 漆黒の地に、金彩の木立が幾重にも連なって
夜の神秘的な森を歩 金色に輝く森は元は着物の羽織でした👘

漆黒の地に、金彩の木立が幾重にも連なって
夜の神秘的な森を歩いているような、静かで奥行きのある一枚🌳

水着の上に羽織れば、そのまま街へ歩き出せるビーチカバーアップにも。

お揃いのキャミソールは既に素敵なお客様の元にお嫁に行きました👰‍♀️
 
Photographer @capturetokyo
Model @kumabeeesan
Make up and hair @mami_hmua

A forest of gold, once a kimono jacket👘
L
ayer upon layer of gilded trees on jet-black silk. A quiet, deep piece, like walking through a mystical night forest🌳

Wear it over a swimsuit and go straight from the beach into the city as an effortless cover-up🖤

The matching camisole has already found its way to a wonderful new home👰‍♀️

#着物リメイク #ラップパンツ #kimonoremake
Furisode — the long-sleeved kimono young women tra Furisode — the long-sleeved kimono young women traditionally wear once in their lives, for their Coming of Age Day ceremony (Seijin Shiki) at 20 — often gets worn just that one time. I actually wore my cousin’s furisode for mine, so hers got a second life. But most don’t. They live for one single day, then disappear into the back of a drawer, unseen for decades 😴

But beautiful silk doesn’t have to end there.
From a once-in-a-lifetime ceremonial robe to something you can wear again and again. This piece — butterflies mid-flight, flowers in bloom — deserved a new season. So I remade it into an i line dress.

振袖は、生涯でたった一度しか袖を通さないことが多いです。

私自身は従姉妹の振袖を着たのでその振袖は二度人に着られたけど、成人式の日だけを生きて、あとはタンスの奥で眠り続ける😴誰にも見られないまま、何十年も。

でも良い生地には、終わりがないんです。

一度きりの晴れ着から、何度でもまとえる一着へ。蝶が舞い、花が咲くこの1着に、新しい季節を与えたくて、マーメイドラインのドレスに仕立て直しました。

#kimonoremake #振袖リメイク #upcycledsilk
オーストラリアからのお客様がオンラインで着物を選び、オーダーしてくださいました✂️ まずは仮縫いを オーストラリアからのお客様がオンラインで着物を選び、オーダーしてくださいました✂️

まずは仮縫いを郵送でお届けし、Zoomの画面越しに丈や身幅を確認しながら、少しずつドレスは形になっていきました。

桜の下で、鳥居の朱色の中で笑う二人の写真が届いたとき、 遠く離れた場所からでも、確かにこの手で紡いだものが誰かの人生の一部になったのだと感じて嬉しかったです♡

A customer from Australia chose her kimono online and placed an order✂️

I first mailed a mock-up, and little by little, checking the length and width over Zoom, the dress took shape.

When the photos arrived of the two of them smiling under the cherry blossoms, in the vermillion red of the torii gate — even from far away, I felt so happy knowing that something woven by my hands had truly become part of someone's life♡

📷@whoshotthephotographer
👰‍♀️@cscambary 

#KimonoUpcycled #MadeToOrder #BridalCouture
#着物リメイク #国際オーダー
このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠 一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシル このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠

一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシルクは風を通して、歩くたびに裾がふわりと揺れます♪

後ろ姿には、着物の袖だった部分を使っていてお尻の部分の花柄が上下逆さまになっています👻最初は迷ったけれど、これはこれで面白いなと思ってそのまま残しました🫶🏻

一点ものなので、この一本だけ。気になる方はプロフィールのリンクから見てみてください♡

This silk is so light, perfect for the hot season 🫠

I made these wide-leg pants from a kimono✂️ The thin silk lets the breeze through, and the hem sways softly with every step ♪

The back is made from what used to be the kimono sleeves, so the floral pattern on the hips ends up upside down👻 I wasn’t sure at first, but honestly it grew on me, so I left it as is 🫶🏻

One of a kind, just this one pair. If you’re curious, the link is in my profile ♡

#着物リメイク #kimonoremake #正絹 #一点もの #和柄 夏の装い ワイドパンツ
数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。 今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプ 数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。

今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプトに合わせて、@redyeingproject さんに黒染めをお願いしました。

Helen x Vivat Veritasのイベントにベンダーとして出展してくださったご縁から生まれたコラボレーションです。

「服を捨てる前に、黒染めという選択肢を。」
色あせた服を、グラム単位の染め直しで蘇らせる——そんなコンセプトに強く共感しました。

天然素材のシルクスカート部分は深く美しい黒へ。
シャンティレースの部分は、少し緑がかった表情のある色に変化しました。

一着を長く着続けるための、小さな選択。
Before / Afterの写真、ぜひご覧ください🩷🖤

A silk dress I made a few years ago.

For this ""Released. Reimagined."" concept, I asked @redyeingproject to dye it black.

This collaboration grew out of a connection made when he joined the Helen x Vivat Veritas event as a vendor.

""Before you throw it away, consider black dyeing.""
His concept — reviving faded clothes through by-the-gram redyeing — really resonated with me.

The silk skirt, a natural fiber, transformed into a deep, beautiful black.
The chantilly lace took on a subtly greenish tone.

A small choice, in service of wearing one piece for longer.
Take a look at the before/after photos🩷🖤

黒染め
@redyeingproject

Photographers
@nothing_special_88
@japanphotographer_

Model
@sienna.christinaaa

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up and videos
@glam_by_jyoti

#黒染め #RedyeingProject #ReleasedReimagined #着物リメイク #サステナブルファッション
実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレ 実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレンと話す中で、これも一緒に見せようと決めました。

ヘレンと3週間近く一緒に準備を進める中で、コレクションの作り方、見る人を楽しませる魅せ方、ルック全体の組み立て方など、本当にたくさんのことを学びました。自分一人だったらこのルックスを入れる決断はしなかったと思う。誰かと一緒に作ることで見えてくるものがあるんだなと、改めて実感しました。
ヘレン、ありがとう♡

Honestly, I wasn't sure whether to include this piece in this show. It was something I'd made a while back. But talking it through with Helen, we decided to show it together after all.

Working with Helen for almost three weeks to prepare for the show, I learned so much — how to build a collection, how to style looks that engage an audience, how to put together a look as a whole. I don't think I would have made the decision to include this piece if I'd been on my own. Creating something together with someone else really opens your eyes to things you wouldn't see alone.

thank you Helen @designerhelen♡

Model @izumi_nishida

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#KimonoUpcycled #SustainableFashion #DesignerCollab #着物リメイク #ものづくり
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