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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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/ blogs / behind the scenes / Technical Difficulties…

Technical Difficulties…

January 8, 2013 By Chie

I’ve been using my Janome Thread Banger for four years. Up till now, she has served me very well even though she had to endure my rough treatment. But finally, I think all my mistreatments have finally caught up with and now she has decided to start misbehaving. The stitches are uneven and the bobbin thread is pulled. I cleaned, oiled, tried different threads and fabrics, gave her much needed rest (4 days!), but nothing changed. I’m taking her to a local machine shop for a repair this weekend.

Right now I’m sewing with my mother’s sewing machine, a home machine by Toyo. It is terrible and doesn’t have any strength at all. I’m literally sewing at  a snales pace; work that usually takes me an hour takes three hours with this little Toyo.

So I’m seriously considering purchasing an industrial sewing machine. I’m looking into Juki, specifically the DDL 5570N. It is an older model (they have since released 5571, 8000, and 9000) but I can seem to get the oder model without paying a fortune. It is a single needle, straigh stitch machine with automatic thread cutter and runs with servo moter. How many of you here use industrial sewing machines? Do you have any recommendations/advice? If you use home sewing machine, have you considered purchasing an indsutrial?

janome thread banger sewing machine by vivat veritas

ChieSignature

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Filed Under: behind the scenes, blog, blogs Tagged With: DDL-5570N, home sewing machine, industrial sewing machine, Janome Thread Banger, Juki, sewing machine

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Comments

  1. theperfectnose says

    January 8, 2013 at 9:16 pm

    Err… sorry to hear of your hardware troubles-that is always a right drag to deal with. I don’t use industrial machines but Simon Henry uses Janome for sewing and Toyota for overlocking/ serging so I guess I can (indirectly and with no experience whatsoever) recommend those..

    • Chie says

      January 11, 2013 at 6:46 pm

      Great info! Thank you. I don’t really hear any bad things about industrial sewing machines, my concern is when it breaks or needs maintenance, it costing a fortune..

  2. Thewallinna says

    January 9, 2013 at 2:36 am

    残念

    The more I use my electric machine, the more I think that I don’t really need one. At school, we all use partly industrial, party mechanical sewing machines. I really like the feel and the end result coming out an industrial machine! Go for it, it’s definitely worth buying! Especially, if sewing is your daily bread 😉

    • Chie says

      January 11, 2013 at 6:48 pm

      I know すごい残念!What kind of school do you go to? Fashion school? I went to a sewing machine dealer yesterday and used what they called “professional” sewing machine. It’s half the speed of industrial, but it was still super fast and smooth! I love how it did not shake the table to sew too.

      • Thewallinna says

        January 29, 2013 at 3:41 am

        Sorry for the late reply. I go to ESMOD and study pattern-making. After I read this post of yours, I’ve done a serious research on sewing machines. Soon, we are moving from Japan and I will more likely sell my electronic sewing machine here and buy an industrial one in my “new” country 🙂

        Your JUKI DDL-9000B is a stunner! I would like to hear more about your first impressions! 5000stitches/min YAAAAYY!

        • Chie says

          February 1, 2013 at 7:40 pm

          Good luck to your move! My juki is great! Super fast! I had a trouble figuring out inserting a needle since it’s different from home machine, but once I figure that out, its working great!!

  3. Hanna says

    January 9, 2013 at 7:12 am

    I don’t own an industrial machine myself but have been using Yuki industrial machines for a decade at school and work and they really are wonderful to sew on.
    I’ve used a variety of models but my favourite is the newer machines that have silent engines, not sure what they are called but they are probably more expensive. If you can’t get one with the silent engine it is still totally worth getting a industrial machine, they are really the best machines to sew on.

  4. Ella says

    January 9, 2013 at 9:48 am

    I don’t own an industrial, but I’ve used one. I know it was by Juki, but I don’t know what model it was :T It was good sewing, fast and powerful.
    I own only home machines and I’d love to have an industrial! If only there was more space… Good luck with your current machine and your possible new one! 🙂

    • Chie says

      January 11, 2013 at 6:50 pm

      Hi Ella, now that I did some research, I’m thinking of buying a newer model than Juki DDL 5570. Juki discontinued the model, so when I need to have it fixed they might not have any parts any longer. I use Juki overlocker, so that’s why I’m looking into the sewing machine in Juki too!
      I know the industrial machines take a lot of space! I have to sort out the sewing space better 🙂

  5. kris says

    January 24, 2013 at 1:38 pm

    Hi! I actually just bought that older Juki DDL5570 used… I live in the los angeles fashion district and they sell them fairly cheap here… they are also easy to service here. i thought it would be better than spending more money on a newer model. I have to say I am totally in LOVE with it. The stitches are so perfect… and there is no fighting fabric with it. I was using an older bernette before. The power behind an industrial is amazing. so far, i’ve worked on everything from quilting to fine silks on it and no problems. not even a broken needle. i thought i’d miss the zig-zag capabilities of my home machine, but so far not. also the feet are very cheap. the invisible zipper foot works great.. i dont even have to pin it in place first. and the speed… it’s so fast! i don’t have to pin anymore. they do take up more space, but it’s worth it if you sew a lot.

    • Chie says

      February 1, 2013 at 7:38 pm

      Hi Kris, thanks for the comment! You are so lucky to live near the fashion district and have easy access to maintenance services…While I was on the search for the machine, I checked out US sites too (ebay etc), and they were so much cheaper! Many DDL 9000 series were sold for less than 1000 dollars, although I had to pay more than a double amount here in Japan. Also the problem here is that the sewing machine mechanics are all older people and they don’t seem to have younger generation who are willing to take over their business. I wonder what would happen in next 20 years..I will need a maintenance guy!

      Anyway, I hope you are enjoying your new industrial sewing machine! xo

  6. Amber says

    May 5, 2013 at 1:29 pm

    Hi Chie,
    I am rather new to sewing and was wondering what you do if you need to use a zig zag stitch with your Juki? Do you just use your serger? Thanks!

    • Chie says

      May 5, 2013 at 7:02 pm

      Hi Amber! I have a surger to finish the edges. I have the home sewing machine too, with decorative stitches.

      • Amber says

        May 6, 2013 at 12:39 pm

        Oh, thank you for the information! I see now.

Trackbacks

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    January 17, 2013 at 7:12 am

    […] my sewing machine stopped stitching properly, my laptop broke too. It turned off all of a sudden and never turned back on. I […]

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大正から昭和初期、若い女性たちの間で流行した銘仙。 かすりの技法を用いた平織りの絹織物で、さらりと 大正から昭和初期、若い女性たちの間で流行した銘仙。

かすりの技法を用いた平織りの絹織物で、さらりとした軽い着心地と、鮮やかな色柄・大胆なデザインが特徴です。

境界がにじんだような風合いと、鮮やかで大胆な色使い🌈

独特のにじみは、たて糸とよこ糸をわずかにずらして織ることで生まれます。

自分の一枚を自由に楽しむために生まれた、女性たちの心意気そのもののような布。その大胆さをそのままに、クロップ丈のキャミソールとまとうラップパンツで、今の暮らしにも映える一枚へ仕立て直しました。

Photographer @capturetokyo
Model @yaos.aisai 
Make up and hair @mami_hmua

Meisen — the kimono fabric that swept through fashion among young women in 1912 to the early 1930s.

A plain-weave silk textured with a kasuri (ikat) technique, prized for its light, breezy feel and its bold colors and daring patterns.

That soft, blurred-edge quality comes together with vivid, fearless color combinations 🌈

The signature blur comes from weaving the warp and weft threads slightly offset from one another.

This fabric was born from women’s desire to wear something entirely their own — it carries their spirit of freedom in every thread. Keeping that same boldness intact, I’ve remade it into a cropped camisole and wrap pants that drape and move with you — a piece that fits naturally into everyday life today🧚

 #KimonoUpcycled #MeisenSilk #VintageJapan #着物リメイク #銘仙
和のかたちを、新しい日常へ。 一本の帯を丁寧にほどき、普段づかいできるワンショルダーバッグへと仕立 和のかたちを、新しい日常へ。

一本の帯を丁寧にほどき、普段づかいできるワンショルダーバッグへと仕立て直しました🌸

見た目からは想像できないほどの収容力。ハサミや糸、リッパー、ペンチ…制作道具もすっぽりまとまって収まります✂️✨入れるのは私だけだと思うけど😆

内側の裏地も可愛い♡

一本の帯が、誰かの日々をまとう相棒に生まれ変わりますように。

From tradition, into everyday life.

One obi, carefully unstitched and reborn as a one-shoulder bag for daily wear🌸

It holds far more than it looks — scissors, thread, a seam ripper, pliers… all my sewing tools tucked neatly inside✂️✨ Though I’m probably the only one who’d pack it like this😆

The lining inside is a little secret I’m quite fond of♡

#帯リメイク #着物リメイク #DIY #アップサイクル #制作動画
金色に輝く森は元は着物の羽織でした👘 漆黒の地に、金彩の木立が幾重にも連なって
夜の神秘的な森を歩 金色に輝く森は元は着物の羽織でした👘

漆黒の地に、金彩の木立が幾重にも連なって
夜の神秘的な森を歩いているような、静かで奥行きのある一枚🌳

水着の上に羽織れば、そのまま街へ歩き出せるビーチカバーアップにも。

お揃いのキャミソールは既に素敵なお客様の元にお嫁に行きました👰‍♀️
 
Photographer @capturetokyo
Model @kumabeeesan
Make up and hair @mami_hmua

A forest of gold, once a kimono jacket👘
L
ayer upon layer of gilded trees on jet-black silk. A quiet, deep piece, like walking through a mystical night forest🌳

Wear it over a swimsuit and go straight from the beach into the city as an effortless cover-up🖤

The matching camisole has already found its way to a wonderful new home👰‍♀️

#着物リメイク #ラップパンツ #kimonoremake
Furisode — the long-sleeved kimono young women tra Furisode — the long-sleeved kimono young women traditionally wear once in their lives, for their Coming of Age Day ceremony (Seijin Shiki) at 20 — often gets worn just that one time. I actually wore my cousin’s furisode for mine, so hers got a second life. But most don’t. They live for one single day, then disappear into the back of a drawer, unseen for decades 😴

But beautiful silk doesn’t have to end there.
From a once-in-a-lifetime ceremonial robe to something you can wear again and again. This piece — butterflies mid-flight, flowers in bloom — deserved a new season. So I remade it into an i line dress.

振袖は、生涯でたった一度しか袖を通さないことが多いです。

私自身は従姉妹の振袖を着たのでその振袖は二度人に着られたけど、成人式の日だけを生きて、あとはタンスの奥で眠り続ける😴誰にも見られないまま、何十年も。

でも良い生地には、終わりがないんです。

一度きりの晴れ着から、何度でもまとえる一着へ。蝶が舞い、花が咲くこの1着に、新しい季節を与えたくて、マーメイドラインのドレスに仕立て直しました。

#kimonoremake #振袖リメイク #upcycledsilk
オーストラリアからのお客様がオンラインで着物を選び、オーダーしてくださいました✂️ まずは仮縫いを オーストラリアからのお客様がオンラインで着物を選び、オーダーしてくださいました✂️

まずは仮縫いを郵送でお届けし、Zoomの画面越しに丈や身幅を確認しながら、少しずつドレスは形になっていきました。

桜の下で、鳥居の朱色の中で笑う二人の写真が届いたとき、 遠く離れた場所からでも、確かにこの手で紡いだものが誰かの人生の一部になったのだと感じて嬉しかったです♡

A customer from Australia chose her kimono online and placed an order✂️

I first mailed a mock-up, and little by little, checking the length and width over Zoom, the dress took shape.

When the photos arrived of the two of them smiling under the cherry blossoms, in the vermillion red of the torii gate — even from far away, I felt so happy knowing that something woven by my hands had truly become part of someone's life♡

📷@whoshotthephotographer
👰‍♀️@cscambary 

#KimonoUpcycled #MadeToOrder #BridalCouture
#着物リメイク #国際オーダー
このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠 一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシル このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠

一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシルクは風を通して、歩くたびに裾がふわりと揺れます♪

後ろ姿には、着物の袖だった部分を使っていてお尻の部分の花柄が上下逆さまになっています👻最初は迷ったけれど、これはこれで面白いなと思ってそのまま残しました🫶🏻

一点ものなので、この一本だけ。気になる方はプロフィールのリンクから見てみてください♡

This silk is so light, perfect for the hot season 🫠

I made these wide-leg pants from a kimono✂️ The thin silk lets the breeze through, and the hem sways softly with every step ♪

The back is made from what used to be the kimono sleeves, so the floral pattern on the hips ends up upside down👻 I wasn’t sure at first, but honestly it grew on me, so I left it as is 🫶🏻

One of a kind, just this one pair. If you’re curious, the link is in my profile ♡

#着物リメイク #kimonoremake #正絹 #一点もの #和柄 夏の装い ワイドパンツ
数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。 今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプ 数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。

今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプトに合わせて、@redyeingproject さんに黒染めをお願いしました。

Helen x Vivat Veritasのイベントにベンダーとして出展してくださったご縁から生まれたコラボレーションです。

「服を捨てる前に、黒染めという選択肢を。」
色あせた服を、グラム単位の染め直しで蘇らせる——そんなコンセプトに強く共感しました。

天然素材のシルクスカート部分は深く美しい黒へ。
シャンティレースの部分は、少し緑がかった表情のある色に変化しました。

一着を長く着続けるための、小さな選択。
Before / Afterの写真、ぜひご覧ください🩷🖤

A silk dress I made a few years ago.

For this ""Released. Reimagined."" concept, I asked @redyeingproject to dye it black.

This collaboration grew out of a connection made when he joined the Helen x Vivat Veritas event as a vendor.

""Before you throw it away, consider black dyeing.""
His concept — reviving faded clothes through by-the-gram redyeing — really resonated with me.

The silk skirt, a natural fiber, transformed into a deep, beautiful black.
The chantilly lace took on a subtly greenish tone.

A small choice, in service of wearing one piece for longer.
Take a look at the before/after photos🩷🖤

黒染め
@redyeingproject

Photographers
@nothing_special_88
@japanphotographer_

Model
@sienna.christinaaa

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up and videos
@glam_by_jyoti

#黒染め #RedyeingProject #ReleasedReimagined #着物リメイク #サステナブルファッション
実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレ 実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレンと話す中で、これも一緒に見せようと決めました。

ヘレンと3週間近く一緒に準備を進める中で、コレクションの作り方、見る人を楽しませる魅せ方、ルック全体の組み立て方など、本当にたくさんのことを学びました。自分一人だったらこのルックスを入れる決断はしなかったと思う。誰かと一緒に作ることで見えてくるものがあるんだなと、改めて実感しました。
ヘレン、ありがとう♡

Honestly, I wasn't sure whether to include this piece in this show. It was something I'd made a while back. But talking it through with Helen, we decided to show it together after all.

Working with Helen for almost three weeks to prepare for the show, I learned so much — how to build a collection, how to style looks that engage an audience, how to put together a look as a whole. I don't think I would have made the decision to include this piece if I'd been on my own. Creating something together with someone else really opens your eyes to things you wouldn't see alone.

thank you Helen @designerhelen♡

Model @izumi_nishida

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#KimonoUpcycled #SustainableFashion #DesignerCollab #着物リメイク #ものづくり
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