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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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/ blogs / behind the scenes / Technical Difficulties…

Technical Difficulties…

January 8, 2013 By Chie

I’ve been using my Janome Thread Banger for four years. Up till now, she has served me very well even though she had to endure my rough treatment. But finally, I think all my mistreatments have finally caught up with and now she has decided to start misbehaving. The stitches are uneven and the bobbin thread is pulled. I cleaned, oiled, tried different threads and fabrics, gave her much needed rest (4 days!), but nothing changed. I’m taking her to a local machine shop for a repair this weekend.

Right now I’m sewing with my mother’s sewing machine, a home machine by Toyo. It is terrible and doesn’t have any strength at all. I’m literally sewing at  a snales pace; work that usually takes me an hour takes three hours with this little Toyo.

So I’m seriously considering purchasing an industrial sewing machine. I’m looking into Juki, specifically the DDL 5570N. It is an older model (they have since released 5571, 8000, and 9000) but I can seem to get the oder model without paying a fortune. It is a single needle, straigh stitch machine with automatic thread cutter and runs with servo moter. How many of you here use industrial sewing machines? Do you have any recommendations/advice? If you use home sewing machine, have you considered purchasing an indsutrial?

janome thread banger sewing machine by vivat veritas

ChieSignature

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Filed Under: behind the scenes, blog, blogs Tagged With: DDL-5570N, home sewing machine, industrial sewing machine, Janome Thread Banger, Juki, sewing machine

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Comments

  1. theperfectnose says

    January 8, 2013 at 9:16 pm

    Err… sorry to hear of your hardware troubles-that is always a right drag to deal with. I don’t use industrial machines but Simon Henry uses Janome for sewing and Toyota for overlocking/ serging so I guess I can (indirectly and with no experience whatsoever) recommend those..

    • Chie says

      January 11, 2013 at 6:46 pm

      Great info! Thank you. I don’t really hear any bad things about industrial sewing machines, my concern is when it breaks or needs maintenance, it costing a fortune..

  2. Thewallinna says

    January 9, 2013 at 2:36 am

    残念

    The more I use my electric machine, the more I think that I don’t really need one. At school, we all use partly industrial, party mechanical sewing machines. I really like the feel and the end result coming out an industrial machine! Go for it, it’s definitely worth buying! Especially, if sewing is your daily bread 😉

    • Chie says

      January 11, 2013 at 6:48 pm

      I know すごい残念!What kind of school do you go to? Fashion school? I went to a sewing machine dealer yesterday and used what they called “professional” sewing machine. It’s half the speed of industrial, but it was still super fast and smooth! I love how it did not shake the table to sew too.

      • Thewallinna says

        January 29, 2013 at 3:41 am

        Sorry for the late reply. I go to ESMOD and study pattern-making. After I read this post of yours, I’ve done a serious research on sewing machines. Soon, we are moving from Japan and I will more likely sell my electronic sewing machine here and buy an industrial one in my “new” country 🙂

        Your JUKI DDL-9000B is a stunner! I would like to hear more about your first impressions! 5000stitches/min YAAAAYY!

        • Chie says

          February 1, 2013 at 7:40 pm

          Good luck to your move! My juki is great! Super fast! I had a trouble figuring out inserting a needle since it’s different from home machine, but once I figure that out, its working great!!

  3. Hanna says

    January 9, 2013 at 7:12 am

    I don’t own an industrial machine myself but have been using Yuki industrial machines for a decade at school and work and they really are wonderful to sew on.
    I’ve used a variety of models but my favourite is the newer machines that have silent engines, not sure what they are called but they are probably more expensive. If you can’t get one with the silent engine it is still totally worth getting a industrial machine, they are really the best machines to sew on.

  4. Ella says

    January 9, 2013 at 9:48 am

    I don’t own an industrial, but I’ve used one. I know it was by Juki, but I don’t know what model it was :T It was good sewing, fast and powerful.
    I own only home machines and I’d love to have an industrial! If only there was more space… Good luck with your current machine and your possible new one! 🙂

    • Chie says

      January 11, 2013 at 6:50 pm

      Hi Ella, now that I did some research, I’m thinking of buying a newer model than Juki DDL 5570. Juki discontinued the model, so when I need to have it fixed they might not have any parts any longer. I use Juki overlocker, so that’s why I’m looking into the sewing machine in Juki too!
      I know the industrial machines take a lot of space! I have to sort out the sewing space better 🙂

  5. kris says

    January 24, 2013 at 1:38 pm

    Hi! I actually just bought that older Juki DDL5570 used… I live in the los angeles fashion district and they sell them fairly cheap here… they are also easy to service here. i thought it would be better than spending more money on a newer model. I have to say I am totally in LOVE with it. The stitches are so perfect… and there is no fighting fabric with it. I was using an older bernette before. The power behind an industrial is amazing. so far, i’ve worked on everything from quilting to fine silks on it and no problems. not even a broken needle. i thought i’d miss the zig-zag capabilities of my home machine, but so far not. also the feet are very cheap. the invisible zipper foot works great.. i dont even have to pin it in place first. and the speed… it’s so fast! i don’t have to pin anymore. they do take up more space, but it’s worth it if you sew a lot.

    • Chie says

      February 1, 2013 at 7:38 pm

      Hi Kris, thanks for the comment! You are so lucky to live near the fashion district and have easy access to maintenance services…While I was on the search for the machine, I checked out US sites too (ebay etc), and they were so much cheaper! Many DDL 9000 series were sold for less than 1000 dollars, although I had to pay more than a double amount here in Japan. Also the problem here is that the sewing machine mechanics are all older people and they don’t seem to have younger generation who are willing to take over their business. I wonder what would happen in next 20 years..I will need a maintenance guy!

      Anyway, I hope you are enjoying your new industrial sewing machine! xo

  6. Amber says

    May 5, 2013 at 1:29 pm

    Hi Chie,
    I am rather new to sewing and was wondering what you do if you need to use a zig zag stitch with your Juki? Do you just use your serger? Thanks!

    • Chie says

      May 5, 2013 at 7:02 pm

      Hi Amber! I have a surger to finish the edges. I have the home sewing machine too, with decorative stitches.

      • Amber says

        May 6, 2013 at 12:39 pm

        Oh, thank you for the information! I see now.

Trackbacks

  1. More Technical Difficulties and New Sewing Machine says:
    January 17, 2013 at 7:12 am

    […] my sewing machine stopped stitching properly, my laptop broke too. It turned off all of a sudden and never turned back on. I […]

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このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠 一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシル このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠

一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシルクは風を通して、歩くたびに裾がふわりと揺れます♪

後ろ姿には、着物の袖だった部分を使っていてお尻の部分の花柄が上下逆さまになっています👻最初は迷ったけれど、これはこれで面白いなと思ってそのまま残しました🫶🏻

一点ものなので、この一本だけ。気になる方はプロフィールのリンクから見てみてください♡

This silk is so light, perfect for the hot season 🫠

I made these wide-leg pants from a kimono✂️ The thin silk lets the breeze through, and the hem sways softly with every step ♪

The back is made from what used to be the kimono sleeves, so the floral pattern on the hips ends up upside down👻 I wasn’t sure at first, but honestly it grew on me, so I left it as is 🫶🏻

One of a kind, just this one pair. If you’re curious, the link is in my profile ♡

#着物リメイク #kimonoremake #正絹 #一点もの #和柄 夏の装い ワイドパンツ
数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。 今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプ 数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。

今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプトに合わせて、@redyeingproject さんに黒染めをお願いしました。

Helen x Vivat Veritasのイベントにベンダーとして出展してくださったご縁から生まれたコラボレーションです。

「服を捨てる前に、黒染めという選択肢を。」
色あせた服を、グラム単位の染め直しで蘇らせる——そんなコンセプトに強く共感しました。

天然素材のシルクスカート部分は深く美しい黒へ。
シャンティレースの部分は、少し緑がかった表情のある色に変化しました。

一着を長く着続けるための、小さな選択。
Before / Afterの写真、ぜひご覧ください🩷🖤

A silk dress I made a few years ago.

For this ""Released. Reimagined."" concept, I asked @redyeingproject to dye it black.

This collaboration grew out of a connection made when he joined the Helen x Vivat Veritas event as a vendor.

""Before you throw it away, consider black dyeing.""
His concept — reviving faded clothes through by-the-gram redyeing — really resonated with me.

The silk skirt, a natural fiber, transformed into a deep, beautiful black.
The chantilly lace took on a subtly greenish tone.

A small choice, in service of wearing one piece for longer.
Take a look at the before/after photos🩷🖤

黒染め
@redyeingproject

Photographers
@nothing_special_88
@japanphotographer_

Model
@sienna.christinaaa

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up and videos
@glam_by_jyoti

#黒染め #RedyeingProject #ReleasedReimagined #着物リメイク #サステナブルファッション
これを着て、カフェに行ったら絶対目立ちそう😆☕ アップサイクルで生まれた、新しいファッションの形。 これを着て、カフェに行ったら絶対目立ちそう😆☕

アップサイクルで生まれた、新しいファッションの形。
コーヒー豆袋のジャケット × 着物リメイクのセットアップ。

一枚一枚、生地の柄合わせから縫製まで、すべて手で仕上げています🪡🧚
実はこの着物、裏地にも別布を仕込んでいて、羽織ると初めて見える色があるんです♡

ヴィンテージ素材に眠っていたストーリーを、
もう一度誰かの日常に届けたくて作りました。

If you wore this to a café, you'd definitely stand out 😆☕

A new form of fashion, born from upcycling. A coffee bean sack jacket × a kimono-remake set-up.

Every single piece is finished entirely by hand, from matching the fabric patterns to the sewing itself 🪡🧚 Actually, this kimono has a different fabric worked into the lining too — there's a color that only reveals itself once you put it on ♡

I wanted to give the stories sleeping in vintage materials a chance to become part of someone's everyday life again.

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Model
@emorylove33

Jewelry
@viviange

Make up
@elanoramua

#アップサイクルファッション #着物リメイク #サステナブルファッション
実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレ 実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレンと話す中で、これも一緒に見せようと決めました。

ヘレンと3週間近く一緒に準備を進める中で、コレクションの作り方、見る人を楽しませる魅せ方、ルック全体の組み立て方など、本当にたくさんのことを学びました。自分一人だったらこのルックスを入れる決断はしなかったと思う。誰かと一緒に作ることで見えてくるものがあるんだなと、改めて実感しました。
ヘレン、ありがとう♡

Honestly, I wasn't sure whether to include this piece in this show. It was something I'd made a while back. But talking it through with Helen, we decided to show it together after all.

Working with Helen for almost three weeks to prepare for the show, I learned so much — how to build a collection, how to style looks that engage an audience, how to put together a look as a whole. I don't think I would have made the decision to include this piece if I'd been on my own. Creating something together with someone else really opens your eyes to things you wouldn't see alone.

thank you Helen @designerhelen♡

Model @izumi_nishida

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#KimonoUpcycled #SustainableFashion #DesignerCollab #着物リメイク #ものづくり
お客様からお預かりした大切な帯。 大切に保管されていた帯ほど、実は「日常でどう使えばいいかわからな お客様からお預かりした大切な帯。

大切に保管されていた帯ほど、実は「日常でどう使えばいいかわからない」という声をよく伺います。だからこそ、その帯の物語を読み解きながら、現代の暮らしに馴染むデザインに仕立て直すことを意識してます😌

パッと見にはわからないけれど、実は使いやすさを追求した仕掛けが隠れています。

ショルダーを付ければ、両手が空くアクティブなスタイルにも対応👜

あなたの思い出の帯も、こんな風に日常の相棒にしてみませんか?

A precious obi entrusted to me by a client.

I often hear people say they aren't sure how to incorporate their cherished obis into their daily lives. That is exactly why I focus on reading the story woven into the fabric and reimagining it into a design that fits modern living😌

There are hidden details that make this bag truly functional, even if you can't see them at first glance. By attaching the shoulder strap, it becomes the perfect hands-free bag for an active lifestyle👜

#upcycledfashion #着物リメイク #obibag #remake #sustainablestyle
飛行機と電車の中で作ったジャケットです✈️🚆 去年の夏の3週間、アメリカとヨーロッパを旅しながら、 飛行機と電車の中で作ったジャケットです✈️🚆

去年の夏の3週間、アメリカとヨーロッパを旅しながら、座席でひたすらチクチク🪡着物の裏地にキルト芯を挟んで、フリーハンドで刺し子して、日本に帰ってから染めました。

This jacket was made on airplanes and trains✈️🚆

Over three weeks last summer, traveling through the US and Europe, I stitched away in my seat🪡 
Kimono lining sandwiched with quilt batting, sashiko stitched freehand, then dyed after I got back to Japan.

Model
@kana_nakar

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Nails
@ms_muse_nail

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#kimonoupcycle #sashiko #sustainablefashion #ReleasedReimagined
#刺し子
お客様から届いたステキな帯を、オーダーメイドのリュックにアップサイクルしました✂️ 吉祥文様が織り お客様から届いたステキな帯を、オーダーメイドのリュックにアップサイクルしました✂️

吉祥文様が織り込まれた錦の帯地は、黒地に金・白・紫…と、見る角度によって表情が変わる贅沢な一品。その美しさをそのまま活かしながら、毎日持ち歩きたくなる使いやすいリュックに仕立てました。内ポケット付きで、実用性もしっかり。

受注制作についてはプロフィールのリンクよりお問い合わせください💌

A client’s treasured obi has found a new life as a custom-made backpack✂️

The brocade fabric, woven with auspicious Japanese motifs, shifts from gold to white to violet depending on the light, a truly luxurious textile. I tried to preserve its beauty while crafting it into a backpack you’d actually want to carry every day. Complete with interior pockets for real-world practicality.

For custom orders, visit the link in our profile 💌

#KimonoUpcycle #SlowFashionJapan #WearableHeritage #着物リメイク #帯リメイク
着物リメイクをするとき、どうしても捨てられてしまうことの多い裏地。 薄手のシルクの手触り、もったい 着物リメイクをするとき、どうしても捨てられてしまうことの多い裏地。

薄手のシルクの手触り、もったいなくてサマーワンピースに生まれ変わらせました。

そのままでは物足りないのでアーティストの Riko Monma @rikoshurimonmaさんに染め直しをお願いしたら、一気に息を吹き返しました✨

数年前に作ったこの一着、今回の @designerhelен とのイベントで、コレクションに加えることにしました。

Helenからは色の組み合わせについていろいろアドバイスをもらって、自分だけでは絶対に辿り着けなかったような配色を試してみたり。準備の時間も、とても楽しかった😌

The lining of a kimono — often discarded when the fabric is remade into something new.
That soft, lightweight silk felt too good to let go, so I turned it into a summer dress. It needed something more, so I asked artist Riko Monma to dye it for me — and suddenly it came alive again.

I made this piece a few years ago, but for the recent event with @designerhelena, I decided to bring it into the collection. Helen gave me so much guidance on color — combinations I never would have arrived at on my own. The whole preparation process was just really, really fun😌

Model
@bethenny.x

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Nails
@ms_muse_nail

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#着物リメイク #キモノアップサイクル #KimonoUpcycle #SustainableFashionTokyo #ReleasedReimagined
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