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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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/ Archives for Andy

Andy

Golden Gloves to Hemline: Pt. 3 Remedial Class

January 3, 2012 By Andy

Happy New Year! Many men ring in the new year with drunkenness and debauchery, others with time spent in holy reflection at church. Andy however, sits in the Vivat Veritas lab sporting a nice new DUNCE cap! My first day of working through the bad boy Burda behemoth bible (Andy you English genius! Master of alliteration!) was a titanic and mythical success. Not only did I read the first few pages with no problem, I was even able to slyly and coolly write about my exploits into the sewing world. I was truly a King among men (or at least among Michael Korsesque men).

But then…Day 2. I tried to transfer my ever increasing knowledge of notions, sewing space and flat surfaced pattern drafting areas onto BS’s (both meanings are indeed meant) hands on with the sewing machine experience. I was set, I had time, I had a quite house with a sleeping baby, I was locked, loaded and ready to thread my bobbin and sew using both correct all-purpose needle and all-purpose zipper footses. Then, sadly then, I sat in front of the beast herself, that unforgiving task master known as Chie’s sewing machine and engaged in a battle I could not win. We struggled for hours, and I ended in tears having lost a life and death struggle to MAKE….THE…..DAMN…..THING…….WORK!!!!! Sadly, my years of education and my years of boxing training were no match for that vicious beast from Hell. I could not thread my bobbin correctly, nor could I thread the needle in an appropriate amount of time (it took me 30 minutes). I, for all my desire, could not even conceive of how the bobbin thread should run through the face plate. I drank heavily that night knowing that Chie would soon come and mercilessly mock, scorn and ridicule me. True to form my loving wife upon he arrival home proceeded to, with not an ounce of sympathy, do the “Andy is a moron” dance in conjunction with the “Andy is a moron” song. I now know the pain of generals defeated in war. It was a sad night.
Perhaps the most neutering experience is yet to come. Tonight, I will sit with Chie and have basic sewing setup skills taught to me. I am in the remedial class. I have failed day 2 and now must have a personalized program to catch me up. On tonight’s plate is 1)Bobbin threading, 2)Needle threading, 3)Pushing appropriate levers and buttons (whatever the hell that is officially called) and sewing my first straight/curved lines.
After much scolding, yelling, swearing and crying I have completed the assigned duties. You can all see photo evidence of my remedial class completion. Chie kept repeating  (while she hit me) “This is for your own good dummy!”
Ladies, will the shame and failure end? Those of you have learned how to sew, when does the joy begin? When, as Allison says, will I take pleasure in sewing spaces and when oh when will I  take fabric pieces and form them into something resembling a garment?
Off to bed now to lick my wounds and pray for an end to my misery!
Related post:
Golden Gloves to Hemline: Pt. 1 Getting Started
Golden Gloves to Hemline: Pt. 2 Threading a Needle

Filed Under: blog, blogs, Golden Gloves to Hemline Tagged With: men, sewing

Golden Gloves to Hemline: Pt. 2 Threading a Needle

December 27, 2011 By Andy

Shaking with excitement I am about to crack the Burdastyle sewing opus! You dream about days like this…I can only ask how, how did I get so lucky! Chie isn’t here at the moment. She is out getting drunk and dancing on tables with some of her friends in Tokyo. That means I am going at this alone for the night. Let’s begin the journey.

Page 20 (I like this book because there are many pictures, the type is large and it makes me feel like I am reading more pages than I actually am). “Your Sewing Machine” Let’s kick this pig! Alison and Nora (The authors I think) have happy nostalgic memories of their sewing machines according to page 22. They have machines handed down from cute grandmothers covered with stickers and love. My memories of the sewing machine are of Chie yelling “You suck, what happened!?!?”, I guess that’s comparable. Gnarly, there are 2 kinds of stitches straight and zigzag, I would have assumed only 1. We have unfortunately, hit a problem…this book is now talking about maintenance. Sadly, I don’t do maintenance very well…not at all really. Using WD-40 and untangling knots are Chie’s jobs. Yes, I am a poor excuse for a husband. There is a section to ye ol book about procuring your very own magical sewing machine. The book recommends having a professional check the device before purchase, just to be safe. I didn’t know the world had so many sewing machine con artists looking to rip you off that you need to employ a pro! You sewers live a crazy life.

OK, actual sewing procedure 1 ‘Threading the Sewing Machine’! I am now sitting at Chie’s glorious machine about to thread the needle…this is so exhilarating I can barely breathe. There are a ton of instructions for threading a needle, how frigging difficult can it be? It’s been 20 minutes and I still can’t find the bobbin… I need some comfort food. Damn straight! I found it finally! Now the bobbin has been fully bobbinized! I am onto threading my machine! Damnnnnnnnn Ittttttt. The thread never goes through the needle eye. It mocks you at every attempt. Thankfully after much swearing and crying, I threaded the needle. I thought all had been going well but I have no idea if I threaded this stupid bobbin and needle correctly. I only see 1 string and the according to the books picture I should see 2. How and why should there be 2? I really wish Chie were home.

Now I get to learn all about presser feet. Man, this is scintillating. Apparently the all-purpose foot is well, all-purpose, whereas the zipper foot is, shockingly, for zippers. I think that section was unnecessary. On to the wide world of needles. It seems that there is a sizing discrepancy in sewing. The damn Europeans use some kind of weird sewing metric system. Even more problematic are the Germans who sometimes add a letter “H” where numbers should be in their sewing schema! This is anarchy. I have now come to a section describing a ball-point vs sharp needle difference. It says the ball-point is rounder. If i stab myself with it, will it still hurt? Yes, in fact it does. It does not feel any “rounder”. I need a band aid. Well, I have failed. I am looking at the sewing machine and although I have threaded both the needle and the bobbin, I am lead to believe something is wrong. Chie’s machine started smoking when I pushed the peddle….Just kidding. But in all seriousness I am pretty sure something is wrong. i am definitely not in a physical, emotional or spiritual place were I feel ready or confident to sew anything, particularly without Chie’s approval. I don’t know what fabric I am allowed to creatively use anyway so I will wait for Chie or “The Warden”, as I like to call her, to return home and fully check my work and give me the go signal for using the actual device. I’m a little sad and a little depressed at how long this took. I started at 7:30 and it is now 9. I read only 4 pages and still not entirely sure what a ‘throat plate’ is. I do not believe it takes Chie 1 1/2 to thread the sewing machine.

Related post:
Golden Gloves to Hemline: Pt. 1 Getting Started

Filed Under: blog, blogs, Golden Gloves to Hemline Tagged With: beginner, sewing

Golden Gloves to Hemline: Pt. 1 Getting Started

December 20, 2011 By Andy

Hello my sisters in Vivat Veritas land. As Chie mentioned briefly in a previous post, I have decided to learn a little someting something about my wife’s world o’ sewing! God save us. I beg you not to mention this to anyone in my old hang outs or boxing gyms in Philadelphia.

Our first order of business is to crack open the Burdastyle book of which dear Chie is a contributor. On first glance, this doesn’t seem “sew” bad (hahahahahaha)! It says that “even if you’ve never even touched a sewing machine before this book can get you started.” I will test that assertion.

On the first page the book reads “Every time we see a great sewing space, we experience a certain voyeuristic thrill”…..I can honestly tell you that I have never had that thought, feeling or emotion when viewing Chie’s sewing space(a.k.a my bedroom), maybe I’ll have it later. Holy crap the next 5 pages are about the “Sewing Space”. I’m bored already. God please make this better! When do I get to sew myself a suit?

OK, first section done. I did come upon a part I do like, Alison’s  mantra of “Clear the Clutter”.  I’m all about that! The cleaner the room, the less stuff it has the better. I think I would be most happy in a house that had nothing in it but people, beds and a table. There was however, in that section a mention of the room’s “feng shui”. This statement made me sad and made the remaining North Philly man in me cringe a little.The book also used a lot of vocabulary that is completely lost on me, “notions” what the hell are those? “Transferring patterns” What the hell is that? Chie!!!! Come here and define this book for me. It is sad I need my ESL wife to tell me what this book written in English is supposed to mean.

Next is the section on tools you’ll need. I believe I have seen all of this crap in Chie’s feng shuied space. The book said that step one was having the right tools for the job. I’m feeling quite good about this part. The book has labeled pictures which is nice for a caveman such as myself who is still very happy to read ‘see and say’ picture books.

That’s all for this week. 10 pages down and 180 more to go. Chie’s bag ‘how to’ section in the back which leads me to believe that it’s fairly difficult.

I’ve learned excitingly little. I didn’t sew anything but I also did screw anything up or break any of Chie’s stuff, sew (hehehe) that’s a plus!  Next time I open ye ol’ Burdastyle book I will be holding the actual ‘sewing machine’ in the actual ‘sewing space’ surrounded by actual ‘sewing notions’ reading through sewing machine section.

I’ll be on Project Runway flirting with Heidi Klum and high fiveing Tim Gunn in no more than 5-6 months!

Filed Under: blog, blogs, Golden Gloves to Hemline Tagged With: book, BurdaStyle, men, sewing

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大正から昭和初期、若い女性たちの間で流行した銘仙。 かすりの技法を用いた平織りの絹織物で、さらりと 大正から昭和初期、若い女性たちの間で流行した銘仙。

かすりの技法を用いた平織りの絹織物で、さらりとした軽い着心地と、鮮やかな色柄・大胆なデザインが特徴です。

境界がにじんだような風合いと、鮮やかで大胆な色使い🌈

独特のにじみは、たて糸とよこ糸をわずかにずらして織ることで生まれます。

自分の一枚を自由に楽しむために生まれた、女性たちの心意気そのもののような布。その大胆さをそのままに、クロップ丈のキャミソールとまとうラップパンツで、今の暮らしにも映える一枚へ仕立て直しました。

Photographer @capturetokyo
Model @yaos.aisai 
Make up and hair @mami_hmua

Meisen — the kimono fabric that swept through fashion among young women in 1912 to the early 1930s.

A plain-weave silk textured with a kasuri (ikat) technique, prized for its light, breezy feel and its bold colors and daring patterns.

That soft, blurred-edge quality comes together with vivid, fearless color combinations 🌈

The signature blur comes from weaving the warp and weft threads slightly offset from one another.

This fabric was born from women’s desire to wear something entirely their own — it carries their spirit of freedom in every thread. Keeping that same boldness intact, I’ve remade it into a cropped camisole and wrap pants that drape and move with you — a piece that fits naturally into everyday life today🧚

 #KimonoUpcycled #MeisenSilk #VintageJapan #着物リメイク #銘仙
和のかたちを、新しい日常へ。 一本の帯を丁寧にほどき、普段づかいできるワンショルダーバッグへと仕立 和のかたちを、新しい日常へ。

一本の帯を丁寧にほどき、普段づかいできるワンショルダーバッグへと仕立て直しました🌸

見た目からは想像できないほどの収容力。ハサミや糸、リッパー、ペンチ…制作道具もすっぽりまとまって収まります✂️✨入れるのは私だけだと思うけど😆

内側の裏地も可愛い♡

一本の帯が、誰かの日々をまとう相棒に生まれ変わりますように。

From tradition, into everyday life.

One obi, carefully unstitched and reborn as a one-shoulder bag for daily wear🌸

It holds far more than it looks — scissors, thread, a seam ripper, pliers… all my sewing tools tucked neatly inside✂️✨ Though I’m probably the only one who’d pack it like this😆

The lining inside is a little secret I’m quite fond of♡

#帯リメイク #着物リメイク #DIY #アップサイクル #制作動画
金色に輝く森は元は着物の羽織でした👘 漆黒の地に、金彩の木立が幾重にも連なって
夜の神秘的な森を歩 金色に輝く森は元は着物の羽織でした👘

漆黒の地に、金彩の木立が幾重にも連なって
夜の神秘的な森を歩いているような、静かで奥行きのある一枚🌳

水着の上に羽織れば、そのまま街へ歩き出せるビーチカバーアップにも。

お揃いのキャミソールは既に素敵なお客様の元にお嫁に行きました👰‍♀️
 
Photographer @capturetokyo
Model @kumabeeesan
Make up and hair @mami_hmua

A forest of gold, once a kimono jacket👘
L
ayer upon layer of gilded trees on jet-black silk. A quiet, deep piece, like walking through a mystical night forest🌳

Wear it over a swimsuit and go straight from the beach into the city as an effortless cover-up🖤

The matching camisole has already found its way to a wonderful new home👰‍♀️

#着物リメイク #ラップパンツ #kimonoremake
Furisode — the long-sleeved kimono young women tra Furisode — the long-sleeved kimono young women traditionally wear once in their lives, for their Coming of Age Day ceremony (Seijin Shiki) at 20 — often gets worn just that one time. I actually wore my cousin’s furisode for mine, so hers got a second life. But most don’t. They live for one single day, then disappear into the back of a drawer, unseen for decades 😴

But beautiful silk doesn’t have to end there.
From a once-in-a-lifetime ceremonial robe to something you can wear again and again. This piece — butterflies mid-flight, flowers in bloom — deserved a new season. So I remade it into an i line dress.

振袖は、生涯でたった一度しか袖を通さないことが多いです。

私自身は従姉妹の振袖を着たのでその振袖は二度人に着られたけど、成人式の日だけを生きて、あとはタンスの奥で眠り続ける😴誰にも見られないまま、何十年も。

でも良い生地には、終わりがないんです。

一度きりの晴れ着から、何度でもまとえる一着へ。蝶が舞い、花が咲くこの1着に、新しい季節を与えたくて、マーメイドラインのドレスに仕立て直しました。

#kimonoremake #振袖リメイク #upcycledsilk
オーストラリアからのお客様がオンラインで着物を選び、オーダーしてくださいました✂️ まずは仮縫いを オーストラリアからのお客様がオンラインで着物を選び、オーダーしてくださいました✂️

まずは仮縫いを郵送でお届けし、Zoomの画面越しに丈や身幅を確認しながら、少しずつドレスは形になっていきました。

桜の下で、鳥居の朱色の中で笑う二人の写真が届いたとき、 遠く離れた場所からでも、確かにこの手で紡いだものが誰かの人生の一部になったのだと感じて嬉しかったです♡

A customer from Australia chose her kimono online and placed an order✂️

I first mailed a mock-up, and little by little, checking the length and width over Zoom, the dress took shape.

When the photos arrived of the two of them smiling under the cherry blossoms, in the vermillion red of the torii gate — even from far away, I felt so happy knowing that something woven by my hands had truly become part of someone's life♡

📷@whoshotthephotographer
👰‍♀️@cscambary 

#KimonoUpcycled #MadeToOrder #BridalCouture
#着物リメイク #国際オーダー
このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠 一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシル このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠

一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシルクは風を通して、歩くたびに裾がふわりと揺れます♪

後ろ姿には、着物の袖だった部分を使っていてお尻の部分の花柄が上下逆さまになっています👻最初は迷ったけれど、これはこれで面白いなと思ってそのまま残しました🫶🏻

一点ものなので、この一本だけ。気になる方はプロフィールのリンクから見てみてください♡

This silk is so light, perfect for the hot season 🫠

I made these wide-leg pants from a kimono✂️ The thin silk lets the breeze through, and the hem sways softly with every step ♪

The back is made from what used to be the kimono sleeves, so the floral pattern on the hips ends up upside down👻 I wasn’t sure at first, but honestly it grew on me, so I left it as is 🫶🏻

One of a kind, just this one pair. If you’re curious, the link is in my profile ♡

#着物リメイク #kimonoremake #正絹 #一点もの #和柄 夏の装い ワイドパンツ
数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。 今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプ 数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。

今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプトに合わせて、@redyeingproject さんに黒染めをお願いしました。

Helen x Vivat Veritasのイベントにベンダーとして出展してくださったご縁から生まれたコラボレーションです。

「服を捨てる前に、黒染めという選択肢を。」
色あせた服を、グラム単位の染め直しで蘇らせる——そんなコンセプトに強く共感しました。

天然素材のシルクスカート部分は深く美しい黒へ。
シャンティレースの部分は、少し緑がかった表情のある色に変化しました。

一着を長く着続けるための、小さな選択。
Before / Afterの写真、ぜひご覧ください🩷🖤

A silk dress I made a few years ago.

For this ""Released. Reimagined."" concept, I asked @redyeingproject to dye it black.

This collaboration grew out of a connection made when he joined the Helen x Vivat Veritas event as a vendor.

""Before you throw it away, consider black dyeing.""
His concept — reviving faded clothes through by-the-gram redyeing — really resonated with me.

The silk skirt, a natural fiber, transformed into a deep, beautiful black.
The chantilly lace took on a subtly greenish tone.

A small choice, in service of wearing one piece for longer.
Take a look at the before/after photos🩷🖤

黒染め
@redyeingproject

Photographers
@nothing_special_88
@japanphotographer_

Model
@sienna.christinaaa

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up and videos
@glam_by_jyoti

#黒染め #RedyeingProject #ReleasedReimagined #着物リメイク #サステナブルファッション
実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレ 実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレンと話す中で、これも一緒に見せようと決めました。

ヘレンと3週間近く一緒に準備を進める中で、コレクションの作り方、見る人を楽しませる魅せ方、ルック全体の組み立て方など、本当にたくさんのことを学びました。自分一人だったらこのルックスを入れる決断はしなかったと思う。誰かと一緒に作ることで見えてくるものがあるんだなと、改めて実感しました。
ヘレン、ありがとう♡

Honestly, I wasn't sure whether to include this piece in this show. It was something I'd made a while back. But talking it through with Helen, we decided to show it together after all.

Working with Helen for almost three weeks to prepare for the show, I learned so much — how to build a collection, how to style looks that engage an audience, how to put together a look as a whole. I don't think I would have made the decision to include this piece if I'd been on my own. Creating something together with someone else really opens your eyes to things you wouldn't see alone.

thank you Helen @designerhelen♡

Model @izumi_nishida

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#KimonoUpcycled #SustainableFashion #DesignerCollab #着物リメイク #ものづくり
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