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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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MADE | Ginger Skinny Jeans View B

January 15, 2015 By Chie

ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas1My first handmade jeans (Ginger Skinny Jeans View B from Closet Case Files) are complete! After about 10 hours of sewing and battling with the machines, they are finally done and they are wearable. Pretty good for the first try and considering that I didn’t make a muslin! The sewing of the jeans would have gone smoother if I could have gotten the thread tension right with #20 jeans thread. I just could not make that work in my industrial Juki sewing machine or Janome home sewing machine (I use Thread Banger). The only way it worked was to use the regular thread on top and jeans thread on bobbin for my Juki, and the opposite for Janome. It was really a goofy way of sewing and it took forever since I had to change thread constantly.

Size: According to the measurement chart, my waist was size 4 and hip was 6. I merged two sizes when cutting out the patterns, but after basting the pants together, butt area felt a but loose so I recut the pattern to size 4 all together. After installing pockets and fly zip front though, size 4 felt a bit too tight. Maybe because of all the additional layer of pockets and front. So I sew the waist with 5/8″ seam allowances and hip and all the leg parts with 3/8″ seam allowances.
I have store bought jeans that fit in the hip area fine but the waist is too wide, so I can’t wear them without a belt. These Ginger jeans seem to work really well and the sizes in waist and hip are perfect.
Fabric: I wish I had chosen a fabric with more stretch. Mine is a black denim with 98% cotton and 2% polyurethane. It was labeled as “stretch denim” but the stretch is very minimal. One down side of ordering fabrics online is you can’t actually touch and feel the fabric. I ordered stretch twill with 5% stretch, and am hoping that will work better for this patterns.
Installing rivets: I bought black rivets to match the black jean button, but I could not make them work. I’m sure I annoyed our neighbors with my knocking and smashing sound late at night. I’m thinking of bringing them and my jeans to Okadaya, where I bought the rivets and ask them to install them.
Pattern modification:
None. I am surprised how well it fits without any modification.
Modifications to make in the future:
1. Shorten the length of the jeans by 3cm so that the hem of the jeans hit the ankle. I like the slightly cropped length. Right now it scrunches up at the ankle a bit. I’m sure the patterns meant to do it or not. I’m not terribly tall so it might be just my legs are shorter than normal. I’m 5’4″.
2. Either raise the pocket placement up to 1-2cm or shorten the pocket length by 1-2cm. I feel like the pockets extend too long (down till the end of my butt cheeks). It would look cleaner with shorter back pockets. This blog says the same thing.
3. I’m not sure if you can tell by the pictures, but my fly front does not lay completely flat. Perhaps change the button hole placement? There is a room for improvement.

ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas7

I wore this outfit to my friend’s birthday party last weekend. We went to a restaurant in Ginza called Lavarock (ラヴァロック). It was a lovely place and we ended up staying for three hours. Unfortunately, after eating a burger, I was uncomfortable sitting with these jeans on since the fabric is not so stretchy. I had to keep changing my leg position and kept kicking the birthday girl who sat in front of me. I’m hoping that overtime, the denim will get softer.

ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas2Outfit details | cropped top and jeans made by me,Cardigan from Andy’s grandpa, Rag and Bone Harrow Booties.ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas3 ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas5 ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas4 ginger skinny jeans view b vivat veritas6

洋裁を始めてから8年近く経っていますが、初めてジーンズを作りました。
パターンはインディーデザイナーのCloset Case FilesのGingerというもののViewB。
ハイウエストのスキニージーンズです。
サイズは4。

工業用ミシン、家庭用ミシン、ロックミシンの3つのミシンを使って作りました。

生地が、2%ポリウレタンが入ったストレッチデニムだったのですが、この型紙にはちょっと硬すぎたかなと反省。
立っているときはいいのですが、座ったり、足を曲げたりすると、ちょっと苦しい・・・

次回は5%ポリウレタンが入った白のコットンツイルで作ろうと思っています。

chie sig2

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Filed Under: blog, blogs, creation, pants, 日本語 Tagged With: closet case files, ginger, jeans

Six High Waisted Jeans Inspirations

January 12, 2015 By Chie

Andy’s Grandmother bought me Ginger Jeans Patterns from Closet Case Files for Christmas and I’ve recently started working on them. This will be my first pair of handmade jeans and I am very excited. When I first started sewing back eight years ago, I didn’t think I could make jeans!

Of the many jeans patterns that are out there, I was most attracted to Ginger Skinny Jeans Patterns because of the View B: high waisted version. Sallie‘s white skinny jeans look so good!

Last week, I made a trip to Okadaya in Shinjuku and bought rivets, jean buttons and a denim zipper. I bought the fabric online at Otsukaya Netshop (大塚屋ネットショップ). It is a black denim with 98% cotton and 2% polyurethane. It was labeled as “stretch denim” but now that I have it in hand, it might not be enough stretch for skinny jeans. We will see.  The thread is Fujix Jeans Stitch #20 (フジックスジーンズステッチ20番)from here.
I’ve collected a few images to get myself motivated to sew high-waisted jeans. I think they would look great paired with cropped sweaters, bustiers or bodysuits. What is your first 2015 sewing project?
クリスマスプレゼントとして、ジーンズの型紙を頂いたので、早速作製始めました。
ジーンズを作るのは初めてで、とっても楽しみです!
洋裁を始めたころは、ジーンズが縫えるものだなんて思ってもみなかったので、新しいマイルストーンを超えられるような気がしてうれしい。
型紙を購入した、こちらのサイトでは、縫い方が詳しく載っているので安心して作れそうです。

how to wear high waisted jeans inspiration board by vivat veritasSources: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6
More on my Fashion Inspiration board in Pinterest

chie sig2{find me elsewhere: shop, facebook, etsy, twitter, pinterest, instagram}

Filed Under: blog, blogs, inspiration, 日本語 Tagged With: ginger, high-waisted, jeans

MADE | Polkadot Button Up & Pom Pom Beanie

January 8, 2015 By Chie

polkadot button up shirt grainline studio vivat veritas1 This is my third Archer Button Up shirt by Grainline Studio. You might be sick of me talking about this pattern, so I will keep this blog post short. When I use commercial patterns, I try to make more than one garment from the pattern so as to get the maximum value out of paying for the pattern, printing out the pages, and assembling the A4 paper puzzle which can take a while. Because I am a big fan of this pattern, I had to make more than a few.

The inspiration of this shirt came from a YouTuber, Mimi Ikonn. I enjoy watching her videos and in one of her videos, she was wearing a polka dot button up, skinny jeans and red blazer and looked really cute. I like this polkadot, it adds a playful element to the outfit yet not like a Minnie mouse.
The fabric is from the sale’s section of Nippori Tomato (トマト). It was only 100 yen (1 USD) per meter, and I bought two meters for this button up. It is most likely synthetic mix (rayon and cotton it seems like). Compared to my silk Archer, this one is much easier to care for. I can throw it in the washer and no ironing is required after each wear. I love my silk button up but, it is certainly not fitted for my daily life, which involves running around with a three-year-old.
Again, I added the sleeve tabs, which will come in handy for warmer months. I also extended the length by 5cm. It gives more butt coverage than the last two (here and here) Archer shirts I made.
I made this shirt last year and finally took pictures today. Sometimes it’s hard to find a time that the weather and my mood work together (Did you read Rachel’s post about How to feel confident behind the camera lenses?)

polkadot button up shirt grainline studio vivat veritas2 polkadot button up shirt grainline studio vivat veritas3polkadot button up shirt grainline studio vivat veritas4Details | pattern: Grainline Archer Button Up | fabric: seems to be rayon and cotton blend | Size: 2 | Modification: added sleeve tabs and extended the length by 5cm|Interface: light weight fusible stretch interface

Outfit details | Shirt made by me, old H&M faux leather shorts (similar), Cardigan from Andy’s grandpa, Sam Edelman Petty Suede booties, Alexander Wang tote,denim DIYed (blogged here), Beanie knitted by me.

Grainline Studioのシャツまた作りました♪
これで3枚目です。今回はレーヨンとコットン混合のような布(生地表示がなかったので詳しくはわかりませんが)で作りました。

洗濯機でじゃぶじゃぶ洗えるし、アイロンがけは不要だし、とても気安いシャツです。

chie sig2{find me elsewhere: shop, facebook, etsy, twitter, pinterest, instagram}

Filed Under: blog, blogs, creation, knitting, top, 日本語 Tagged With: archer button up, knitting, shirt

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和のかたちを、新しい日常へ。 一本の帯を丁寧にほどき、普段づかいできるワンショルダーバッグへと仕立 和のかたちを、新しい日常へ。

一本の帯を丁寧にほどき、普段づかいできるワンショルダーバッグへと仕立て直しました🌸

見た目からは想像できないほどの収容力。ハサミや糸、リッパー、ペンチ…制作道具もすっぽりまとまって収まります✂️✨入れるのは私だけだと思うけど😆

内側の裏地も可愛い♡

一本の帯が、誰かの日々をまとう相棒に生まれ変わりますように。

From tradition, into everyday life.

One obi, carefully unstitched and reborn as a one-shoulder bag for daily wear🌸

It holds far more than it looks — scissors, thread, a seam ripper, pliers… all my sewing tools tucked neatly inside✂️✨ Though I’m probably the only one who’d pack it like this😆

The lining inside is a little secret I’m quite fond of♡

#帯リメイク #着物リメイク #DIY #アップサイクル #制作動画
金色に輝く森は元は着物の羽織でした👘 漆黒の地に、金彩の木立が幾重にも連なって
夜の神秘的な森を歩 金色に輝く森は元は着物の羽織でした👘

漆黒の地に、金彩の木立が幾重にも連なって
夜の神秘的な森を歩いているような、静かで奥行きのある一枚🌳

水着の上に羽織れば、そのまま街へ歩き出せるビーチカバーアップにも。

お揃いのキャミソールは既に素敵なお客様の元にお嫁に行きました👰‍♀️
 
Photographer @capturetokyo
Model @kumabeeesan
Make up and hair @mami_hmua

A forest of gold, once a kimono jacket👘
L
ayer upon layer of gilded trees on jet-black silk. A quiet, deep piece, like walking through a mystical night forest🌳

Wear it over a swimsuit and go straight from the beach into the city as an effortless cover-up🖤

The matching camisole has already found its way to a wonderful new home👰‍♀️

#着物リメイク #ラップパンツ #kimonoremake
Furisode — the long-sleeved kimono young women tra Furisode — the long-sleeved kimono young women traditionally wear once in their lives, for their Coming of Age Day ceremony (Seijin Shiki) at 20 — often gets worn just that one time. I actually wore my cousin’s furisode for mine, so hers got a second life. But most don’t. They live for one single day, then disappear into the back of a drawer, unseen for decades 😴

But beautiful silk doesn’t have to end there.
From a once-in-a-lifetime ceremonial robe to something you can wear again and again. This piece — butterflies mid-flight, flowers in bloom — deserved a new season. So I remade it into an i line dress.

振袖は、生涯でたった一度しか袖を通さないことが多いです。

私自身は従姉妹の振袖を着たのでその振袖は二度人に着られたけど、成人式の日だけを生きて、あとはタンスの奥で眠り続ける😴誰にも見られないまま、何十年も。

でも良い生地には、終わりがないんです。

一度きりの晴れ着から、何度でもまとえる一着へ。蝶が舞い、花が咲くこの1着に、新しい季節を与えたくて、マーメイドラインのドレスに仕立て直しました。

#kimonoremake #振袖リメイク #upcycledsilk
オーストラリアからのお客様がオンラインで着物を選び、オーダーしてくださいました✂️ まずは仮縫いを オーストラリアからのお客様がオンラインで着物を選び、オーダーしてくださいました✂️

まずは仮縫いを郵送でお届けし、Zoomの画面越しに丈や身幅を確認しながら、少しずつドレスは形になっていきました。

桜の下で、鳥居の朱色の中で笑う二人の写真が届いたとき、 遠く離れた場所からでも、確かにこの手で紡いだものが誰かの人生の一部になったのだと感じて嬉しかったです♡

A customer from Australia chose her kimono online and placed an order✂️

I first mailed a mock-up, and little by little, checking the length and width over Zoom, the dress took shape.

When the photos arrived of the two of them smiling under the cherry blossoms, in the vermillion red of the torii gate — even from far away, I felt so happy knowing that something woven by my hands had truly become part of someone's life♡

📷@whoshotthephotographer
👰‍♀️@cscambary 

#KimonoUpcycled #MadeToOrder #BridalCouture
#着物リメイク #国際オーダー
このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠 一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシル このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠

一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシルクは風を通して、歩くたびに裾がふわりと揺れます♪

後ろ姿には、着物の袖だった部分を使っていてお尻の部分の花柄が上下逆さまになっています👻最初は迷ったけれど、これはこれで面白いなと思ってそのまま残しました🫶🏻

一点ものなので、この一本だけ。気になる方はプロフィールのリンクから見てみてください♡

This silk is so light, perfect for the hot season 🫠

I made these wide-leg pants from a kimono✂️ The thin silk lets the breeze through, and the hem sways softly with every step ♪

The back is made from what used to be the kimono sleeves, so the floral pattern on the hips ends up upside down👻 I wasn’t sure at first, but honestly it grew on me, so I left it as is 🫶🏻

One of a kind, just this one pair. If you’re curious, the link is in my profile ♡

#着物リメイク #kimonoremake #正絹 #一点もの #和柄 夏の装い ワイドパンツ
数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。 今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプ 数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。

今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプトに合わせて、@redyeingproject さんに黒染めをお願いしました。

Helen x Vivat Veritasのイベントにベンダーとして出展してくださったご縁から生まれたコラボレーションです。

「服を捨てる前に、黒染めという選択肢を。」
色あせた服を、グラム単位の染め直しで蘇らせる——そんなコンセプトに強く共感しました。

天然素材のシルクスカート部分は深く美しい黒へ。
シャンティレースの部分は、少し緑がかった表情のある色に変化しました。

一着を長く着続けるための、小さな選択。
Before / Afterの写真、ぜひご覧ください🩷🖤

A silk dress I made a few years ago.

For this ""Released. Reimagined."" concept, I asked @redyeingproject to dye it black.

This collaboration grew out of a connection made when he joined the Helen x Vivat Veritas event as a vendor.

""Before you throw it away, consider black dyeing.""
His concept — reviving faded clothes through by-the-gram redyeing — really resonated with me.

The silk skirt, a natural fiber, transformed into a deep, beautiful black.
The chantilly lace took on a subtly greenish tone.

A small choice, in service of wearing one piece for longer.
Take a look at the before/after photos🩷🖤

黒染め
@redyeingproject

Photographers
@nothing_special_88
@japanphotographer_

Model
@sienna.christinaaa

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up and videos
@glam_by_jyoti

#黒染め #RedyeingProject #ReleasedReimagined #着物リメイク #サステナブルファッション
これを着て、カフェに行ったら絶対目立ちそう😆☕ アップサイクルで生まれた、新しいファッションの形。 これを着て、カフェに行ったら絶対目立ちそう😆☕

アップサイクルで生まれた、新しいファッションの形。
コーヒー豆袋のジャケット × 着物リメイクのセットアップ。

一枚一枚、生地の柄合わせから縫製まで、すべて手で仕上げています🪡🧚
実はこの着物、裏地にも別布を仕込んでいて、羽織ると初めて見える色があるんです♡

ヴィンテージ素材に眠っていたストーリーを、
もう一度誰かの日常に届けたくて作りました。

If you wore this to a café, you'd definitely stand out 😆☕

A new form of fashion, born from upcycling. A coffee bean sack jacket × a kimono-remake set-up.

Every single piece is finished entirely by hand, from matching the fabric patterns to the sewing itself 🪡🧚 Actually, this kimono has a different fabric worked into the lining too — there's a color that only reveals itself once you put it on ♡

I wanted to give the stories sleeping in vintage materials a chance to become part of someone's everyday life again.

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Model
@emorylove33

Jewelry
@viviange

Make up
@elanoramua

#アップサイクルファッション #着物リメイク #サステナブルファッション
実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレ 実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレンと話す中で、これも一緒に見せようと決めました。

ヘレンと3週間近く一緒に準備を進める中で、コレクションの作り方、見る人を楽しませる魅せ方、ルック全体の組み立て方など、本当にたくさんのことを学びました。自分一人だったらこのルックスを入れる決断はしなかったと思う。誰かと一緒に作ることで見えてくるものがあるんだなと、改めて実感しました。
ヘレン、ありがとう♡

Honestly, I wasn't sure whether to include this piece in this show. It was something I'd made a while back. But talking it through with Helen, we decided to show it together after all.

Working with Helen for almost three weeks to prepare for the show, I learned so much — how to build a collection, how to style looks that engage an audience, how to put together a look as a whole. I don't think I would have made the decision to include this piece if I'd been on my own. Creating something together with someone else really opens your eyes to things you wouldn't see alone.

thank you Helen @designerhelen♡

Model @izumi_nishida

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#KimonoUpcycled #SustainableFashion #DesignerCollab #着物リメイク #ものづくり
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