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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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MADE | Butterick 4610 Camel Wool Coat

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butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas

Now this year’s coat sewing is done! I love my new coat. This is a bit lighter than the coat I made last year since the fabric is thinner. It is still warm enough if you layer some clothes and I think I’ll be able to survive the Tokyo winter just fine.

After making two muslins (one of which is wearable), this coat came out pretty quick. I enjoyed working with wool. I get a great joy out of fusing the wool! That sounds so weird but if you sew, I’m sure you understand.

If you are interested in making a similar coat, here are the facts:

Pattern: Butterick B 4610
Size: I blended the size 6 and 12.
Adjustment: Skipped the patch pockets and added the inseam pocket between front panel and side front panel. I also lengthened the jacket by 23 cm below the waist line. The front hem is cornered, instead of round in the original pattern or my pink jacket. Finally, I did the narrow shoulder adjustment by 1cm each side.
Fabric: camel wool fabric. The exact content is unknown since it was from the sale’s section.
Lining: polyester satin in matching camel color.
What I would have done differently: Add the side pockets in between front and back side panels, instead of between front panel and side front panel. When I button up the coat, the pockets open up in a weird way. Or I would add a welt pockets across the front and side front panels. Another thing is the length. I was able to extend the original pattern length by only 23cm since I had a limited fabric, but I would have liked knee length coat.

butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas4butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas2

Outfit details | Shirt: made by me (Grainline Studio Archer Button up), Sweater: thrifted, Jeans: Uniqlo, Necklace: Moose and Nigel, Booties: Rag and Bone Harrow Booties
butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas3butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas5Bound button holes! I followed this tutorial.

butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas6Here is what the inside of the coat looks like. butterick 4610 modification camel wool coat by vivat veritas7I’ll be making the most out of this coat this winter! I like that it goes well with my skin color and hair color. I tend to wear black and gray a lot in the winter, and my face looked so dull. I didn’t know why until I read Sonja‘s comment on my pink jacket post about the correlation between hair color and the clothes color. Since my hair is very dark, when I wear dark colors, I look like someone from Adam’s family.

♡Check out the muslin for this coat // Inspiration post for the coat♡

今年の冬のコート出来上がりました♪
前回作ったピンクのジャケットと同じ型紙を使い、さらに丈を５センチ伸ばして作りました。
本当は膝丈コートにしたかったのですが、セールで買ったこのキャメル色のウール、１５０センチ幅で１．５メートルしかなかったので、５センチ伸ばしてぎりぎりでした。
結果は大満足♪少しウールが薄手なので、袖をくしゅくしゅと巻くって、ホワイトジーンズなどはけば春先にも行けそうです。
次は、ダッフルコート縫ってみたいな。
chie sig2

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MADE | Butterick 4610 Jacket (Muslin for a Camel Coat)

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butterick 4610 boyfriend jacket by vivat veritas2 Continuing the blog post about my winter wool coat sewing, I mentioned that I made two muslins for the coat, and here is the one! My first muslin was made out of  yellow cotton fabric so as to just test the size and length. For the first muslin, I lengthened the jacket length by 10 cm, but it still looked like an office lady’s jacket. I was hoping my jacket to be a boyfriend jacket, like AYR‘s. The length covers the butt, and the fit is not skin tight but slim enough so that it does not look like you are wearing a man’s jacket. So I further lengthend the jacket by additional 8cm, In total 18cm longer than what the patterns say.

Pattern: Butterick B 4610
Size: I blended the size 6 and 12.
Adjustment: Skipped the patch pockets and added the inseam pocket between front panel and side front panel. I also lengthened the jacket by 18 cm below the waist line.
Fabric: pink jersey (same fabric as this girl’s T-shirt to a Dress tutorial)

butterick 4610 boyfriend jacket by vivat veritas

Outfit details | Dress: vintage, Jacket: self-made, Watch: Michael Kors, Pumps: Salvatore Ferragamo

The pattern came from the Craftsy course, Classic Tailoring: the Blazer. I started watching the class but only finished  lesson two and just abandoned it for about a year. I find most Craftsy courses rather boring. Every time I try to watch one while hanging out on my bed, I fall a sleep. I’ve sewn a few jackets before including this men’s tuxedo, so I just skipped the class all together and sewed according to the pattern instructions.

The jacket took me a long time since I had the wrong fabric – I used cupro lining for this stretch jersey outer shell fabric, which did not work well at all together. So I ended up ripping the lining and went without lining. Had I known that I would make this without lining, I would have done something else to the seam allowances, like binding with bias strips or something. By the time I removed the lining, I had spent around 10 hours on this jacket and gotten sick of sewing it, so I just serged the seam allowances.

I’m not 100% happy with the jacket..I don’t like the wrinkles around the shoulder (set-in sleeves gone wrong) and the jersey wasn’t the most fitted fabric for this project. Thankfully, I think this is still wearable and I will be wearing this more in the Spring when the weather warms up. Can’t wait for the warm weather already!

Butterick4610という既成の型紙を使ってジャケットを作りました。
本来のものより長さは１８センチ長くして、ボーイフレンドジャケット風に。
裏地をつけたり、外したり試行錯誤したので、１０時間近くかかってしまいました。。

残念ならら、作るものすべてが大成功っていうわけではないですね。
これは、一応着られるけど、よくみるとあーすればよかった、こーすればよかったってことが多い作品になってしまいました。

butterick 4610 boyfriend jacket by vivat veritas1 butterick 4610 boyfriend jacket by vivat veritas3 butterick 4610 boyfriend jacket by vivat veritas4chie sig2

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6 Camel Color Winter Coat Inspiration

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camel coat inspiration board vivat veritas blogIt’s the time of the year to sew a new coat! Last year, I made myself a pink wool coat (and for my daughter too. We match!). I still wear it but wanted to make another one. I’ve decided to go for a camel color tailored wool coat. The shape will be pretty similar to the pink coat with single front button, single breasted and long collar. I already made two muslins for it and am now ready to dive into cutting the wool.

It’s funny how your style changes over a year. I clearly remember looking at someone with a camel colored coat and thinking, “what an ugly color..I will be truly an old woman when I want to wear that”. That was about five years ago. Now I’m completely drawn to the camel color, thus I made this image board. All of them are from my Fashion Inspiration board on Pinterest, which I add pins to frequently. I’m a bit addicted to Pinterest.

Last week, I had a chance to go to Nippori fabric district. The fabric I had in mind was a thick camel color wool from Sakuraya Shoten, that I saw a month ago but did not buy at the time. Unfortunately it was all gone. I searched through the sale’s rack and found another camel wool, a bit thinner than the original one I had in mind for 300 yen (3 USD) for a meter and a half so I grabbed it.

Now I have to modify the length so I can cut all the coat pieces from 1.5m. Originally I planned this to be super long calf length, like #6 image above, but now it will more likely to be the length that just covers my butt. We will see.

Any coat sewing plans this winter?

Sources: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6

去年はピンク色のコートを作りましたが、今年はキャメルカラーのチェスターコートを作ることにしました。
生地は日暮里のさくらや商店のセールラックで見つけたもの。
1.5mで300円と激安でしたが、メーター数が少ないので、丈が最初に考えていたより短くなっちゃいそうです。
すでに２つ仮縫いをし終わっているので、実際のコートの縫製はぱっと終わりそう♪

chie sig2

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