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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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Hand-worked Buttonhole

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Handworked Buttonhole on Jacket via vivatveritas

For the Butterick 4610 white jacket, I made a handworked buttonhole. I have a home sewing machine that does buttonhole (Thread Banger) but I didn’t feel like taking the sewing machine out of closet for just one buttonhole, so I decided to finish it by hand. I usually use my Juki industrial sewing machine and Juki home serger. My Thread Banger, that has been used to death is neatly been stored in the back of my closet.

Tutorials for handworked buttonholes are out there online already, so I won’t write a step-by-step process here. This one from by gum, by golly and this from A Fashionable Stitch are great. They are easy to follow and there are tons of pictures for graphic learners like me. I also made a reference to my Japanese sewing book, “Atarashii Bubunnui (新しい部分縫い）by Yutaka Shimanaka (嶋中豊）, pictured below. I love this book! The book goes over every sewing techniques you can think of for casual clothes sewing, going over different type of zipper opening to pockets. I find myself referencing this book over and over again while I made a tuxedo. I happened to find this book along with other sewing text books from Bunka Publishing at a local library for sale for 100 yen (1USD) each! I got so lucky.

I think handworked buttonholes are very durable, but I prefer the look of bound buttonholes. I used the latter for my first and second Butterick jacket/coat. Of machine sewn buttonholes, bound buttonholes and handworked buttonholes, which finish do you like the most?Japanese Sewing Book on Handworked Buttonhole Handworked Buttonhole on Jacket via vivatveritas3Handworked Buttonhole on Jacket via vivatveritas4 Handworked Buttonhole on Jacket via vivatveritas2

こちらの白ジャケットは１つボタンなのですが、ボタンホールを手縫いで穴かがりしました。
１個しかボタンホールがないので、家庭用ミシンを取り出して始末するのが面倒くさかったのもあるのですが。
手縫いの穴かがりのいいところは持ちがいいところ。
市販のファストファッションのボタンホールみたいに穴がぼろぼろになったりしません。
が、ちょっと手作り感が強いかも。

少しこういった細かいところで差をつけられるのが手作りの醍醐味ですね。
chie sig2

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MADE | Butterick 4610 Jacket (Muslin for a Camel Coat)

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butterick 4610 boyfriend jacket by vivat veritas2 Continuing the blog post about my winter wool coat sewing, I mentioned that I made two muslins for the coat, and here is the one! My first muslin was made out of  yellow cotton fabric so as to just test the size and length. For the first muslin, I lengthened the jacket length by 10 cm, but it still looked like an office lady’s jacket. I was hoping my jacket to be a boyfriend jacket, like AYR‘s. The length covers the butt, and the fit is not skin tight but slim enough so that it does not look like you are wearing a man’s jacket. So I further lengthend the jacket by additional 8cm, In total 18cm longer than what the patterns say.

Pattern: Butterick B 4610
Size: I blended the size 6 and 12.
Adjustment: Skipped the patch pockets and added the inseam pocket between front panel and side front panel. I also lengthened the jacket by 18 cm below the waist line.
Fabric: pink jersey (same fabric as this girl’s T-shirt to a Dress tutorial)

butterick 4610 boyfriend jacket by vivat veritas

Outfit details | Dress: vintage, Jacket: self-made, Watch: Michael Kors, Pumps: Salvatore Ferragamo

The pattern came from the Craftsy course, Classic Tailoring: the Blazer. I started watching the class but only finished  lesson two and just abandoned it for about a year. I find most Craftsy courses rather boring. Every time I try to watch one while hanging out on my bed, I fall a sleep. I’ve sewn a few jackets before including this men’s tuxedo, so I just skipped the class all together and sewed according to the pattern instructions.

The jacket took me a long time since I had the wrong fabric – I used cupro lining for this stretch jersey outer shell fabric, which did not work well at all together. So I ended up ripping the lining and went without lining. Had I known that I would make this without lining, I would have done something else to the seam allowances, like binding with bias strips or something. By the time I removed the lining, I had spent around 10 hours on this jacket and gotten sick of sewing it, so I just serged the seam allowances.

I’m not 100% happy with the jacket..I don’t like the wrinkles around the shoulder (set-in sleeves gone wrong) and the jersey wasn’t the most fitted fabric for this project. Thankfully, I think this is still wearable and I will be wearing this more in the Spring when the weather warms up. Can’t wait for the warm weather already!

Butterick4610という既成の型紙を使ってジャケットを作りました。
本来のものより長さは１８センチ長くして、ボーイフレンドジャケット風に。
裏地をつけたり、外したり試行錯誤したので、１０時間近くかかってしまいました。。

残念ならら、作るものすべてが大成功っていうわけではないですね。
これは、一応着られるけど、よくみるとあーすればよかった、こーすればよかったってことが多い作品になってしまいました。

butterick 4610 boyfriend jacket by vivat veritas1 butterick 4610 boyfriend jacket by vivat veritas3 butterick 4610 boyfriend jacket by vivat veritas4chie sig2

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DIY Sheer Blouson Jacket

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front back jacket by vivat veritasI bought this navy blue bomber style jacket at a thrift store called Nishi Kaigan (meaning West Coast 西海岸 in Japanese). I was pretty excited to go to this thrift store since I had heard about its mammoth size (which is rare in Japan) and cheapness, but I was rather disappointed when I got there. Yes, the place was huge, but from the piles of clothes, I did not find any gems or treasures that I always  manage to find when thrifting. I was not even completely sold on this jacket, I did not want to go home empty handed so I grabbed it. It is made out of Linen and stretch rib for waist and wrist, but I needed to spice it up before wearing it. I bought a sheer chiffon Georgette fabric that matches the color of the jacket and inserted the sheer panels in top half of back and sleeves.

After the quick DIY, it became one of my favorite outer pieces to throw on during the fall. Navy matches with almost anything in my closet and I like how it is a slightly different from wearing black.

DIY bomber jacket3 by vivat veritasDIY sheer blouson jacket by vivat veritasDIY bomber jacket by vivat veritasWorn with one of the first top I made, mint shorts, thrifted bag, Michael Kors watch, Gorjana necklace and Oia Jules bracelet.ChieSignature

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