Get in touch

Vivat Veritas

Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

/ Archives for tutorial

tutorial

How to Make Spaghetti Straps

By

このページを日本語で読む

 

youtube video how to make spaghetti strapsIn my 10 years of garment sewing, this is the first dress I made in true red. I was requested this particular dress from a photographer who is planning a fall shoot in Showa Kinen park this week. He is hoping to use the dress to catch the colors of changing leaves. I don’t know if I will have an occassion to wear such a dress myself, but it was fun to make! The bodice is made out of satin and the skirt has wrinkled chiffon layers on top of half circle satin skirt. Chiffon layers are actually streamers as opposed to one connected skirt, so it should be fun to play around with them for the photos. red dress long handmade red showstopper dresssewing red carpet dress try onI made Spaghetti straps to go criss cross at the back, and took a short video clip of how to make them. I’ve made them many times and this method which uses a cord might be the easiest. You sew a strap fabric folded (right side in) with a cord inside, and utilize the cord to turn the strap inside out. My trick is to sew the top and bottom openings a bit wider than actual strap width, so the turning goes smoother. You can cut off the wide parts later so the whole strap is the even width.

Watch the video for the details here.

Table of contents

0:00 Opening
0:05 How to cut fabric
0:50 Recommended stitch length
1:08 How to sew straps
1:34 Trim seam allowances
1:52 How to turn straps
3:29 Pressing

Resource list

Subscribe

Subscribe to Vivat Veritas youtube channel♡

Sewing BurdaStyle Coat 116 Part 1

By

burdastyle coat 116|SEW WITH ME!| BurdaStyle coat 08/2016 #116

In this video, part 1, I talk about my fabric choice and also give a step-by-step breakdown for sewing the outer coat up until the attachment of the facing.

About BurdaStyle coat 116:
“This multi-faceted classic includes a full-length shawl collar and deep set-in sleeves. It is a great choice for every closet. The open front comes together with the tying belt that allows it to be worn close to the body, loosely drawn or fully open.”

Hope you’ll like the video and are encouraged to sew your own! 

Table of contents

0:00 Opening
1:27 Fabrics
4:09 Cutting out fabrics
4:50 Sew back  pieces
6:09 Stitch back yoke to back
7:30 Stitch shoulder seams
8:43 Stitch under collar to upper front edges
9:26 Stitch under collar to neck edge and continue stitching the dart
10:21 Sew facings
10:57 Sew center back seam of the upper front facings
11:23 Sew back facing to upper front facings
12:42 Sew facings to coat
14:27 Sew the seam allowances of back yoke and back facing together.
14:52 Sew sleeves
16:22 Sew side seams
16:50 Try on

Resource list

Subscribe

Subscribe to Vivat Veritas youtube channel♡

 

Bluff-Stitched Patch Pocket Tutorial

By

Bluff stitched patch pocket tutorial
I recently had an opportunity to make a slew of “bluff-stitched” patch pockets. I snapped some photos during the process to make a quick tutorial. “Bluff-stitched” means the pocket is attached without top stitching showing on the front of the pocket. It looks neat and expensive. It takes some extra steps, but well worth the effort!
bluff stitched patch pocket close up
Mine is single layered (no lining) with lace trim at the opening.

tutorial 1 baste the corner of the pockets
First, cut the pocket fabric and take care of the pocket opening. I added the antique lace trim on mine. Then baste the corner if you have a rounded corner. If you have a pointed corner, you can skip this step.step 2 make a pocket pattern
Using card stock paper, make a pattern for the pocket. This is used to make perfectly rounded corners. If you make it, do it without seam allowances and -1mm for the turn of cloth. Or, you can use a neat metal tool like this if the curve fits your pocket’s.
step 3 press the corner
Using the paper pocket pattern you made in the above process, pull the basted seams and press the seam allowances inward. step 4 pin the pocket
Pin the pocket to where you want it to be attached. Since I was making this with white silk, I thread-marked the pocket placement so there is no chance that I would ruin the fabric. 

step5 baste the pocketstep 5 basting completedHand baste the pocket. I basted as close as possible to the edge. This will make machine sewing easier in the next step.
step 6 attach pocket from insideFrom the inside, attach the pocket as close to the basted line. It gets tricky at the curved corner, but sew slowly using a pointy tool to open up a way for the stitches. Once you are done, take off the hand basted thread an press.

step7 sew for the second timeYou will be sewing the pocket for the second time, this time as close to the creased line after the press. step 7 wrong sideThis is what it looks like from the wrong side of the fabric. Two stitching lines in parallel.
completed pocketsBluff-stitching pockets are elegant and make your handmade garment look expensive! If you are into pockets as much as I am, check out my bellows pocket tutorial as well.

Sign me up!

Want more post like this? 

Get it in your inbox, once a month. Check out my previous newsletters to see if you would like one.

コバステッチなしのパッチポケットの作り方です。
外側から見ると、「どうやってついてるの？」って思うかも。
一瞬でお洋服を格上げしてくれるポケットだと思います。

コツはめんどくさがらずに手でしつけすることです。
そのあと、内側から2度縫い、仕上げます。