jacket

MADE | Butterick 4610 Camel Wool Coat

December 18, 2014 By Chie

Now this year’s coat sewing is done! I love my new coat. This is a bit lighter than the coat I made last year since the fabric is thinner. It is still warm enough if you layer some clothes and I think I’ll be able to survive the Tokyo winter just fine.

After making two muslins (one of which is wearable), this coat came out pretty quick. I enjoyed working with wool. I get a great joy out of fusing the wool! That sounds so weird but if you sew, I’m sure you understand.

If you are interested in making a similar coat, here are the facts:

Pattern: Butterick B 4610
Size: I blended the size 6 and 12.
Adjustment: Skipped the patch pockets and added the inseam pocket between front panel and side front panel. I also lengthened the jacket by 23 cm below the waist line. The front hem is cornered, instead of round in the original pattern or my pink jacket. Finally, I did the narrow shoulder adjustment by 1cm each side.
Fabric: camel wool fabric. The exact content is unknown since it was from the sale’s section.
Lining: polyester satin in matching camel color.
What I would have done differently: Add the side pockets in between front and back side panels, instead of between front panel and side front panel. When I button up the coat, the pockets open up in a weird way. Or I would add a welt pockets across the front and side front panels. Another thing is the length. I was able to extend the original pattern length by only 23cm since I had a limited fabric, but I would have liked knee length coat.

Outfit details | Shirt: made by me (Grainline Studio Archer Button up), Sweater: thrifted, Jeans: Uniqlo, Necklace: Moose and Nigel, Booties: Rag and Bone Harrow Booties
Bound button holes! I followed this tutorial.

Here is what the inside of the coat looks like. I’ll be making the most out of this coat this winter! I like that it goes well with my skin color and hair color. I tend to wear black and gray a lot in the winter, and my face looked so dull. I didn’t know why until I read Sonja‘s comment on my pink jacket post about the correlation between hair color and the clothes color. Since my hair is very dark, when I wear dark colors, I look like someone from Adam’s family.

♡Check out the muslin for this coat // Inspiration post for the coat♡

今年の冬のコート出来上がりました♪
前回作ったピンクのジャケットと同じ型紙を使い、さらに丈を５センチ伸ばして作りました。
本当は膝丈コートにしたかったのですが、セールで買ったこのキャメル色のウール、１５０センチ幅で１．５メートルしかなかったので、５センチ伸ばしてぎりぎりでした。
結果は大満足♪少しウールが薄手なので、袖をくしゅくしゅと巻くって、ホワイトジーンズなどはけば春先にも行けそうです。
次は、ダッフルコート縫ってみたいな。

{find me elsewhere: shop, facebook, etsy, twitter, pinterest, instagram}

MADE | Butterick 4610 Jacket (Muslin for a Camel Coat)

December 8, 2014 By Chie

Continuing the blog post about my winter wool coat sewing, I mentioned that I made two muslins for the coat, and here is the one! My first muslin was made out of yellow cotton fabric so as to just test the size and length. For the first muslin, I lengthened the jacket length by 10 cm, but it still looked like an office lady’s jacket. I was hoping my jacket to be a boyfriend jacket, like AYR‘s. The length covers the butt, and the fit is not skin tight but slim enough so that it does not look like you are wearing a man’s jacket. So I further lengthend the jacket by additional 8cm, In total 18cm longer than what the patterns say.

Pattern: Butterick B 4610
Size: I blended the size 6 and 12.
Adjustment: Skipped the patch pockets and added the inseam pocket between front panel and side front panel. I also lengthened the jacket by 18 cm below the waist line.
Fabric: pink jersey (same fabric as this girl’s T-shirt to a Dress tutorial)

Outfit details | Dress: vintage, Jacket: self-made, Watch: Michael Kors, Pumps: Salvatore Ferragamo

The pattern came from the Craftsy course, Classic Tailoring: the Blazer. I started watching the class but only finished lesson two and just abandoned it for about a year. I find most Craftsy courses rather boring. Every time I try to watch one while hanging out on my bed, I fall a sleep. I’ve sewn a few jackets before including this men’s tuxedo, so I just skipped the class all together and sewed according to the pattern instructions.

The jacket took me a long time since I had the wrong fabric – I used cupro lining for this stretch jersey outer shell fabric, which did not work well at all together. So I ended up ripping the lining and went without lining. Had I known that I would make this without lining, I would have done something else to the seam allowances, like binding with bias strips or something. By the time I removed the lining, I had spent around 10 hours on this jacket and gotten sick of sewing it, so I just serged the seam allowances.

I’m not 100% happy with the jacket..I don’t like the wrinkles around the shoulder (set-in sleeves gone wrong) and the jersey wasn’t the most fitted fabric for this project. Thankfully, I think this is still wearable and I will be wearing this more in the Spring when the weather warms up. Can’t wait for the warm weather already!

Butterick4610という既成の型紙を使ってジャケットを作りました。
本来のものより長さは１８センチ長くして、ボーイフレンドジャケット風に。
裏地をつけたり、外したり試行錯誤したので、１０時間近くかかってしまいました。。

残念ならら、作るものすべてが大成功っていうわけではないですね。
これは、一応着られるけど、よくみるとあーすればよかった、こーすればよかったってことが多い作品になってしまいました。

{find me elsewhere: shop, facebook, etsy, twitter, pinterest, instagram}

Sewing the Pink Coat:: Cutting Out Patterns

December 17, 2013 By Chie

As I mentioned in my last coat post, I’m working on BurdaStyle 08/2012#101B pattern this winter. Making a coat involves a lot of different processes, so I try to tackle each step on different day. A few days ago, I worked on cutting out the patterns in my size. I chose the smallest size, size 36.

Pattern adjustments: I only shortened the coat length and did not make any other pattern adjustments. The instructions call for 4cm coat hem, but I did not add them. I am 165cm tall (5’5) and without adding the hem allowances, it seems to fall right above my knees.

Note on the patterns: One thing to note on Burda patterns is that they don’t have seam allowances included. It seems like some BurdaStyle patterns produced in NY have allowances included, but the ones from Germany don’t. I might be wrong with this assumption though. Not having seam allowances included in the patterns can be good if you are sewing a fitted dress, like a bombshell dress because it is easier to adjust the fit, but it can also be annoying since you have to add it on your own! Any suggestions on how to do that in the easiest and the quickest way? I used the tracing wheel shown in the picture above, set the width between two wheels to 1.5cm and traced the patterns. I did it without the Dressmaker’s tracing paper or anything, so it was hard to see. So I decided to take out this fabric stamp pad, called Fabrico, dipped the wheel in and marked the seam allowances. It is not a good idea. I ended up having the black ink all over the floor and the patterns.