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Vivat Veritas

Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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MADE | Archer Button up Silk Variation

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archer button up shirt silk version7 cover photoMy second try on Grainline Studio Archer Button up shirt! I made the first one in chiffon polyester and was pretty happy with it. It was actually a wearable muslin to prepare for this silk shirt. My attempt to recreate this Equipment shirt without paying $300.

First, this was the most expensive fabric I bought for myself! I buy nice fabrics for bridal customers but I tend to go to sales rack for my own sewing… I ordered it online from Hideki for 2.5 meters, and it cost 5000 yen (50 USD). Thankfully I had my credit card points saved up so I got it for free more or less. The fabric is silk crape de chine in blue gray. I ordered a sample before purchasing. The store lets you order up to 10 samples but I think it is only available to Japan domestic customers. The color I ordered is now sold out but they still have it in pink and gray here.archer button up shirt silk version by vivatveritasarcher button up shirt silk version1I made two modifications to the pattern.

1) add the pocket tab. When you look at this Equipment silk shirt, you can see that there are square pockets with tab on both sides. I drafted the pattern for the tab based on a Japanese sewing book all about pockets. It is pretty easy. The key to it is to add about 4mm on the width of the pocket tab, so that it sits slightly wider than the actual pocket.

2) add sleeve tabs (inspired by Sophie’s shirt!).
I like to roll up the sleeves. For fabrics like chiffon or silk crape de chine, it is hard to keep the roll up sleeves stayed since the fabric is slippery. That’s something I realized after wearing my previous shirt for a few times. I made the tabs based on the store bought shirt I have, but it turned out the width was a bit too narrow for the buttons I used. It was too late to fix it and not that noticeable so I did not fix it.

archer button up shirt silk version8archer button up shirt silk version11I always have hard time when I fold the facings under and topstitch in place from the right side of the garment. I hate the suprise of uneven hem or the hem not being caught. I had to unstitch and fix that. archer button up shirt silk version5

So my question now is…how do you keep the silk shirt without a stain under armpits? I’ve seen one idea on Pinterest, where you attach panty liners on the shirt to prevent a stain. Although it might work just fine, that’s not the most sexy thing. When I wore this shirt, I just wore a long sleeve undershirt and used a lot of anti-perspirin (something I stock up when I go to the U.S.! Evidence here), but that means I can only wear this shirt in the winter. Any suggestions?archer button up shirt silk version6Details | pattern: Grainline Archer Button Up | fabric: silk crape de chine from Hideki | Size: 2 | Modification: added pocket tabs and sleeve tabs |Interface: light weight fusible stretch interface

Outfit details | Shirt made by me, denim DIYed (blogged here), heels from Steven Madden.

シルクのシャツ、作りました。
Equipmentというブランドのシルクシャツが欲しかったのですが、とってもお高いので、自分で作ってみました。
生地はヨーロッパ服地のひできという楽天ショップで買ったシルクデシン。
柔らかくて、熱を保持するので、あったかいです。

デニムは３９０マートで買ったものを自分でリメイク♪

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Toddler Pink Coat

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toddler pink coat by vivat veritas2I made myself a pink coat this year, and also for my daughter! I did not mean to match, but I had about an meter left of the wool I used for my coat, and that was the perfect length to make a mini version for Kiko.

I really enjoyed sewing her coat. It took much less time! I only sewed for two nights, about 2 hours at a time. Kiko goes to bed at 7pm, so after that is my sewing time. I used the coat patterns from a Japanese sewing book, but I cannot remember the name of the book! I have been trying to remember what that was, but since I borrowed the book from a library, I am not sure which one I used. I go to a local library every other week, and borrow a bunch of books including picture books for Kiko, novels and sewing books. I appreciate the library having a good selection of Japanese sewing books, as they have the entire series of “Drape Drape” etc. Most of the times, the books are returned without me making anything from the book, but I enjoy flipping through pages and reading the instructions.

The tracing of the patterns came easy as they are small. Instead of big Kraft papers I usually use for drafting patterns, I used copy papers. I skipped a lot of the tailoring for this coat, and used iron-on interface and avoided hand sewing as much as possible. The only hand sewing I did was to catch stitch the seam allowances down inside the coat, so they are not flopping around.

toddler coat lining by vivat veritas

I used a fun printed polyester fabric for the lining. It is the same as the fabric as this dress. I like the playfulness it adds to the coat.

I used flower decorative buttons and snap buttons for actual closure. I was not happy with these snap buttons though, as they are plastic as opposed to metal, and don’t snap as easy (I have to press hard) as I would like. I thought snap buttons will be easy for Kiko to button on her own, but because of the plastic buttons, I still end up doing them for her… I bought them online, so I did not know their quality before hand.

Overall, I am very happy with the result. I would use the pattern again. Maybe a Spring coat, with cotton twill or linen. It might be fun to alternate the round collar to hood, or go without a collar. It makes me happy when Kiko brags to her friends saying, “mommy made it!”.

自分のコートを作った生地の残りが１ｍほど残っていたので、娘にもコートを作りました。
型紙は、図書館で借りたソーイングの本から。
本の題名を忘れてしまって、どうしても思い出せないんですが、確かなんとか女の子の服。とかいう本。（そんなタイトルの本たくさんありますよね。。汗）
サイズは大きいかなと思いつつ１１０で切ったんですが、ぴったりでした。
来年は着れなくなっちゃうかも。

２時間×二晩で縫い終わりました。
子供の服はらくちん♪
娘も気に入ってくれて、嬉しいです。
次作るなら、ポケットつけて、コットンツイルかリネンでスプリングコートにしたいな。
丸襟の代わりにフードか、ノーカラーにしても良いかも。

toddler pink coat by vivat veritas3 toddler pink coat close upby vivat veritas6toddler pink coat by vivat veritas1 toddler pink coat back view by vivat veritas4

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In Progress:: 3/19/2014

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tiffany blue bridesmaid dress by vivat veritas1 copy

Hello! Just wanted to share some of the sewing projects I have been working on recently. The above is the Midriff cutout dress in Tiffany blue as a bridesmaid dress. It’s available in more than 40 different colors! (Check out the last photo of the listing). The Kimono wrap shown below is one of my best sellers since 2012. It’s perfect as a beach cover-up; also available in six different colors. sheer kimono wrap by viavt veritas1 tiffany blue dress and kimono wrap by vivat veritas white lace dress in process by vivat veritas1

This one is a custom wedding party dress. In Japan, sometimes a couple throws a separate party after the wedding ceremony, just with friends. This will be a little bohemian inspired dress. white lace dress in process by vivat veritas2 white lace dress in process by vivat veritas3Lastly, here is a short video of the behind the scenes of the photoshoot I posted on facebook page recently. I worked with Elissa, who modeled here, here and here. We shot at the cutest studio in Shibuya. They location is full of beautiful and delicate antiques like a chandelier, alarm clock, phone, match boxes and tea cups. You can buy the items displayed in the studio too! The background music I put in the video is “Young and Beautiful” by Lana Del Ray.

Post by Vivat Veritas.
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