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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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Crossover Back Chambray Shirt

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DIY crossover back chambray shirtI bought two meters of chambray fabric at Nippori Tomato during the Summer, thinking of making a dress shirt for Andy. After my failed attempt (talked about here), I lost the motivation to make anything for him. On top of that, he was just given around 30 new(used of course) pieces from his friend. Even his male friend could not stand seeing him wear the same old t-shirts and sweatpants. So I thought it would be good timing to just take the fabric and make something for myself.

Again, I based this shirt on Grainline Studio’s Archer button up. This is my sixth time using this pattern (my other versions 1, 2, 3, 4. The pattern fits me well and making button up is a perfect in-between project. It is intricate enough to be interesting to sew but not time consuming enough to be too daunting to start, like coat.

To change things up a bit, I modified it to make cross over back. The inspiration comes from my Fall Sewing List, particularly Antonio Berardi poplin shirt. It retails $735!
Grainline Studio Archer Button Up Chambray Version Handmade chambray button down with a cross over backThe adjustment is easy, as described below. Instead of making the center front folded, the back panel separated in two. I added 5cm in center back, and using curved ruler, cut slightly curved line toward the hem. I also lengthen the hem by about 7cm. I folded the hem twice the center back, crossed over and attached to back yoke. DSC_1918 copyCross over back modificationAnother modification I made was the pockets. I experimented with the pocket flaps in the past in my silk version. On top of the added flaps, I made the pocket bellows pocket. I love to add little details like this to a simple button up. Also enjoyed learning new skills.

Finally, I did all the button holes by hand. I did one in the past, but working on 8 button holes by hand took longer than I planned!

Next up in my sewing cue is khaki parka using BurdaStyle pattern! Some sneak peak on my instagram.

自分用にまた１枚、デニムシャツ作りました。
ちょっと変わったデザインにしたくて、後ろをクロスに。
長さも後ろは少し長めにして、冬にセーターの下に着ても見せられてレイヤーが楽しめるように。

ボタンホールは手縫い、ボタンは千鳥掛けと、ちょっとこだわってみました。
Chambray button down via Vivat Veritas BlogHappy Halloween via Vivat Veritas Blogchie sig2

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Archer Button Up Shirt Dress Variation

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Grainline Archer Button Up Dress Variation by Vivat Veritas

Here is an addition to my Spring wardrobe, just in time for MMM15 (My MMM12 here)! I used the Grainline Archer button up shirt pattern AGAIN. This is my fifth try of this pattern(1, 2, 3 and 4th one is not blogged). I am convinced that I totally got my money’s worth for this pattern. I worn these four shirts so many times over the winter. Most of the time, I have been wearing it underneath a sweater just to add an extra warmth to survive the winter. Tokyo winter is not as harsh as say, NY, but because the houses here are not very well insulated, I had to wear warm clothes even in indoors.

Anyway, as always, I made this in size 4. The only modification I made was the length. I’ve already lengthened the shirt by 2 inches for my shirt version, and for this dress version, I further lengthened it by additional 10 inches. I skipped the sleeve tabs this time because the fabric was not as slippery as the silk I used before and it would hold the shape when I roll up the sleeves.

The fabric is light weight cotton lawn. It’s very soft and feels almost like gauze. I bought this about six months ago in Nippori Tomato for 100 yen per meter. I was going to make Andy a button up shirt with it. I even made a muslin, but when he fitted the muslin, I was disappointed. It did not fit him at all. I used the extra large pattern from a Japanese pattern book, called “Men’s shirt book”(男のシャツの本) by Ryuichiro Shimazaki. I think the patterns are designed for skinny Japanese dudes, not my weirdly shaped, boxer husband. The shoulder and sleeve parts were so off, I was at a loss how to fix it. I let it sit while I was thinking of how to correct the pattern and somewhere along the way I lost the motivation to continue. So I just decided to take this fabric for my own clothes. Sorry Andy, no shirt for you.

I love the color of this shirt. It’s close to navy blue, but a bit eclectic version of navy blue, if that makes any sense. I didn’t have any navy in my wardrobe, so it is a good addition. I can wear this with skinny belt, moto jacket, trench, or wear it as a jacket with t-shirt and jeans underneath.

Grainline Archer Button Up Dress Variation Vivat Veritas1 Grainline Archer Button Up Dress Variation Vivat Veritas2 Grainline Archer Button Up Dress Variation Vivat Veritas4 Grainline Archer Button Up Dress Variation Vivat Veritas3Little girl wearing salvatore ferragamo pumps

Here is Kiko, trying on my new pumps…

春に向けて、シャツドレスを１枚作りました。
生地は日暮里トマトの１００円コーナーで買った、コットンローン。
１００円なので、本当にコットンローンかは謎ですが、そんな感じの手触りと織です。
地直しのために洗ってから縫いましたがかなり色落ちしました。

本当は旦那さんにシャツを作る予定だったのですが、サイズが合わな過ぎてギブ。
「男のシャツの本」から型紙を使って仮縫いしましたが、肩と腕が合わなくて、胸回りもXLなのにぱつぱつで、
どう直していいか分からずあきらめました笑

変わりに、Grainline StudioのArcher Button Upの型紙を使って自分用にシャツを。
長さは２５センチ近く伸ばして、シャツドレスバージョンにしてみました。chie sig2

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MADE | Archer Button up Silk Variation

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archer button up shirt silk version7 cover photoMy second try on Grainline Studio Archer Button up shirt! I made the first one in chiffon polyester and was pretty happy with it. It was actually a wearable muslin to prepare for this silk shirt. My attempt to recreate this Equipment shirt without paying $300.

First, this was the most expensive fabric I bought for myself! I buy nice fabrics for bridal customers but I tend to go to sales rack for my own sewing… I ordered it online from Hideki for 2.5 meters, and it cost 5000 yen (50 USD). Thankfully I had my credit card points saved up so I got it for free more or less. The fabric is silk crape de chine in blue gray. I ordered a sample before purchasing. The store lets you order up to 10 samples but I think it is only available to Japan domestic customers. The color I ordered is now sold out but they still have it in pink and gray here.archer button up shirt silk version by vivatveritasarcher button up shirt silk version1I made two modifications to the pattern.

1) add the pocket tab. When you look at this Equipment silk shirt, you can see that there are square pockets with tab on both sides. I drafted the pattern for the tab based on a Japanese sewing book all about pockets. It is pretty easy. The key to it is to add about 4mm on the width of the pocket tab, so that it sits slightly wider than the actual pocket.

2) add sleeve tabs (inspired by Sophie’s shirt!).
I like to roll up the sleeves. For fabrics like chiffon or silk crape de chine, it is hard to keep the roll up sleeves stayed since the fabric is slippery. That’s something I realized after wearing my previous shirt for a few times. I made the tabs based on the store bought shirt I have, but it turned out the width was a bit too narrow for the buttons I used. It was too late to fix it and not that noticeable so I did not fix it.

archer button up shirt silk version8archer button up shirt silk version11I always have hard time when I fold the facings under and topstitch in place from the right side of the garment. I hate the suprise of uneven hem or the hem not being caught. I had to unstitch and fix that. archer button up shirt silk version5

So my question now is…how do you keep the silk shirt without a stain under armpits? I’ve seen one idea on Pinterest, where you attach panty liners on the shirt to prevent a stain. Although it might work just fine, that’s not the most sexy thing. When I wore this shirt, I just wore a long sleeve undershirt and used a lot of anti-perspirin (something I stock up when I go to the U.S.! Evidence here), but that means I can only wear this shirt in the winter. Any suggestions?archer button up shirt silk version6Details | pattern: Grainline Archer Button Up | fabric: silk crape de chine from Hideki | Size: 2 | Modification: added pocket tabs and sleeve tabs |Interface: light weight fusible stretch interface

Outfit details | Shirt made by me, denim DIYed (blogged here), heels from Steven Madden.

シルクのシャツ、作りました。
Equipmentというブランドのシルクシャツが欲しかったのですが、とってもお高いので、自分で作ってみました。
生地はヨーロッパ服地のひできという楽天ショップで買ったシルクデシン。
柔らかくて、熱を保持するので、あったかいです。

デニムは３９０マートで買ったものを自分でリメイク♪

chie sig2

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