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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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My Bombshell Dress

September 6, 2011 By Chie

It was such a mistake to wait until two days before attending a wedding to start making a dress to wear for the event! It was particularly dumb considering I was planning on making a bombshell dress. It was much more time consuming than I expected. In the end, it turned out alright, but I stressed myself out trying to finish the dress. I ended up finishing it on the day of the wedding.

The fabric I bought was cotton seething in sea foam color. I tend to go for dark blue, purple or lavender so I wanted to try something new. I didn’t realize it was such a bridemaidsy color until I was close to completing  the dress. Thank God that we don’t have the bridesmaid tradition here in Japan. No one thought I looked like a bridesmaid because they don’t know what they are! The game would not have worked if it were a wedding in the States.

The pattern is a Burda pattern that came with Craftsy.com’s Perfect Fit Bombshell Dress class I took. I do like the pattern a lot. The sweet heart neckline is really lovely, and I like the sarong skirt. I did not have enough fabric to make the sarong skirt, so I used the pattern I previously drafted myself. It is an I line skirt with pleats in front and darts in back.

I cut out the smallest size pattern, and made a muslin. I’m not sure what the measurements should be for the smallest size, because I didn’t have time to read directions, but it was way too big for me. I ended up taking 6″ all around the bodice. I’m not sure what happened?! I usually fit the smallest size of the Burda pattern just fine. I was so glad to have made the muslin though! I would not have been happy if I jumped in with the fashion fabric just to discover that the dress didn’t fit at all.

I usually go for an invisible zipper, but as suggested in the class, I used flat zipper. I do like the look of it, and it is easier to zip up than an invisible zipper. Sometimes I fear that I will kill the zipper when I’m using an invisible one.

The entire dress is underlined with muslin fabric. I love the effect of the underlining! It gave so much structure and shape to the dress, without being stiff like it would have, had I used paper-like iron on interface. I finished the skirt slit opening with grosgrain ribbon, that was left-over from making a waist stay.

Here is the look on inside of the dress. I’m pretty happy with how it looks… 🙂 For the top part, I lined it with the same fashion fabric, and also boning. The bust is padded. I attached the lining by hand, while watching Season 4 of project runway.

I am not sure what happened to this stain though?! Can you see this yellow mark I got on skirt? I was not pleased..

This is only the second strapless dress I have ever worn, the previous being my wedding dress. Thanks to boning in the bodice and waist stay it fit pretty well, better than what I would be able to buy at a store. However, I still felt a bit insecure about the bust line, and I had to pay attention not to reveal my breasts accidentally. I felt a bit “bare” at the wedding… everyone else had some kind of shawl or cardigan and I wished that I brought something to cover my shoulder. Surprisingly, the dress fit better by the end of the day, after all the food!

I think I am going to make shoulder straps so I can wear this for other occasions.

Filed Under: blog, blogs, creation

Making Wedding Dress Pt. 7 – Skirt Part

September 5, 2011 By Chie

So I secretly felt relieved when my friend did not ask for dramatic trains or super puffy skirt. I’ve never made those, and I would be very nervous to try it for the first time on someone’s wedding dress. My friend decided on a dress that was simple, flowey, and easy to move around in. Since the dress I’m making is for her afterparty, she really emphasized her desire for mobility. I wouldn’t want to be dragging a long train at a restaurant/bar type place either.  I suggested that we do simple half circle dress. I thought it would go well with the  big “balloon bow” we were going to add to the back of the dress. She loved the idea, and the muslin of the skirt I made for her. It worked out pretty well for me as well, since I’ve already drafted a pattern for half circle skirt for Grograin‘s free pattern month (free scallop waist half circle skirt pattern is here).

Because of the length of the skirt, I had to separate the skirt pieces in four. My Grosgrain half circle pattern can be cut out as one piece, because the length is short, but for a floor length dress, I had to separate them.

This satin fabric sheds like a dog! I had to sweep the floor multiple times everyday. It got really frustrating working with this fabric so for the skirt pieces I overlocked the edge, even though I didn’t have to, since it was going to be lined. This extra step made my sewing time much easier.

I ironed the seam allowances open. This thing became really handy..I’m not sure what you call it in English, but in Japanese, it is called “Sode Manjyu”, which means “sleeves steamed cake.” It’s different from a Taylor’s ham, it is longer..anyone know what you call this in English?

Now that the four pieces were connected and became a big one skirt piece, I added an iron-on interface tape to prevent the waist skirt line from stretching too much. Although the fabric did not have any stretch, the fabric was cut in bias so I wanted to avoid the measurements changing because of the possible stretch.

I made sure that the seam lines of the bodice and those of the skirt piece matched up. It would be terrible if they didn’t… I pinned the bodice and skirt pieces together and sewed the places where the two seams matched first. Then I sewed together the two pieces. That way I knew for sure that the seams would match and by doing it this way I was able to avoid re-sewing the entire line because of possible mismatches.

Tada! Now it looks more like a wedding dress! Next, I need to install a zipper 🙂

Read my progress on sewing wedding dress! :

Part 1 – Fabric shopping
Part 2 – Muslin
Part 3 – Another Muslin
Part 4 – Cutting Fashion Fabric
Part 5 – Sewing the Bust Part
Part 6 – Ruching

 

Filed Under: blog, blogs, bridal

Shop Update: Labor Day Weekend Deal!

September 2, 2011 By Chie

I’m so happy that I have Monday off from work! This is my first day off (besides weekends) after I went back to work. I’m super excited to have Monday off, and happy to have a short work week ahead.

To celebrate the Labor Day weekend, I’m offering a gift certificate that is $40 in value for $28! This can be used toward any items in my store, and there is no expiration date. You will receive a unique code after the payment is made.

This is an offer limited in number and time 🙂 Please don’t use any coupon code (facebook etc) when purchasing this gift certificate. Hope you enjoy!

 

Filed Under: blog, blogs, Etsy

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大正から昭和初期、若い女性たちの間で流行した銘仙。 かすりの技法を用いた平織りの絹織物で、さらりと 大正から昭和初期、若い女性たちの間で流行した銘仙。

かすりの技法を用いた平織りの絹織物で、さらりとした軽い着心地と、鮮やかな色柄・大胆なデザインが特徴です。

境界がにじんだような風合いと、鮮やかで大胆な色使い🌈

独特のにじみは、たて糸とよこ糸をわずかにずらして織ることで生まれます。

自分の一枚を自由に楽しむために生まれた、女性たちの心意気そのもののような布。その大胆さをそのままに、クロップ丈のキャミソールとまとうラップパンツで、今の暮らしにも映える一枚へ仕立て直しました。

Photographer @capturetokyo
Model @yaos.aisai 
Make up and hair @mami_hmua

Meisen — the kimono fabric that swept through fashion among young women in 1912 to the early 1930s.

A plain-weave silk textured with a kasuri (ikat) technique, prized for its light, breezy feel and its bold colors and daring patterns.

That soft, blurred-edge quality comes together with vivid, fearless color combinations 🌈

The signature blur comes from weaving the warp and weft threads slightly offset from one another.

This fabric was born from women’s desire to wear something entirely their own — it carries their spirit of freedom in every thread. Keeping that same boldness intact, I’ve remade it into a cropped camisole and wrap pants that drape and move with you — a piece that fits naturally into everyday life today🧚

 #KimonoUpcycled #MeisenSilk #VintageJapan #着物リメイク #銘仙
和のかたちを、新しい日常へ。 一本の帯を丁寧にほどき、普段づかいできるワンショルダーバッグへと仕立 和のかたちを、新しい日常へ。

一本の帯を丁寧にほどき、普段づかいできるワンショルダーバッグへと仕立て直しました🌸

見た目からは想像できないほどの収容力。ハサミや糸、リッパー、ペンチ…制作道具もすっぽりまとまって収まります✂️✨入れるのは私だけだと思うけど😆

内側の裏地も可愛い♡

一本の帯が、誰かの日々をまとう相棒に生まれ変わりますように。

From tradition, into everyday life.

One obi, carefully unstitched and reborn as a one-shoulder bag for daily wear🌸

It holds far more than it looks — scissors, thread, a seam ripper, pliers… all my sewing tools tucked neatly inside✂️✨ Though I’m probably the only one who’d pack it like this😆

The lining inside is a little secret I’m quite fond of♡

#帯リメイク #着物リメイク #DIY #アップサイクル #制作動画
金色に輝く森は元は着物の羽織でした👘 漆黒の地に、金彩の木立が幾重にも連なって
夜の神秘的な森を歩 金色に輝く森は元は着物の羽織でした👘

漆黒の地に、金彩の木立が幾重にも連なって
夜の神秘的な森を歩いているような、静かで奥行きのある一枚🌳

水着の上に羽織れば、そのまま街へ歩き出せるビーチカバーアップにも。

お揃いのキャミソールは既に素敵なお客様の元にお嫁に行きました👰‍♀️
 
Photographer @capturetokyo
Model @kumabeeesan
Make up and hair @mami_hmua

A forest of gold, once a kimono jacket👘
L
ayer upon layer of gilded trees on jet-black silk. A quiet, deep piece, like walking through a mystical night forest🌳

Wear it over a swimsuit and go straight from the beach into the city as an effortless cover-up🖤

The matching camisole has already found its way to a wonderful new home👰‍♀️

#着物リメイク #ラップパンツ #kimonoremake
Furisode — the long-sleeved kimono young women tra Furisode — the long-sleeved kimono young women traditionally wear once in their lives, for their Coming of Age Day ceremony (Seijin Shiki) at 20 — often gets worn just that one time. I actually wore my cousin’s furisode for mine, so hers got a second life. But most don’t. They live for one single day, then disappear into the back of a drawer, unseen for decades 😴

But beautiful silk doesn’t have to end there.
From a once-in-a-lifetime ceremonial robe to something you can wear again and again. This piece — butterflies mid-flight, flowers in bloom — deserved a new season. So I remade it into an i line dress.

振袖は、生涯でたった一度しか袖を通さないことが多いです。

私自身は従姉妹の振袖を着たのでその振袖は二度人に着られたけど、成人式の日だけを生きて、あとはタンスの奥で眠り続ける😴誰にも見られないまま、何十年も。

でも良い生地には、終わりがないんです。

一度きりの晴れ着から、何度でもまとえる一着へ。蝶が舞い、花が咲くこの1着に、新しい季節を与えたくて、マーメイドラインのドレスに仕立て直しました。

#kimonoremake #振袖リメイク #upcycledsilk
オーストラリアからのお客様がオンラインで着物を選び、オーダーしてくださいました✂️ まずは仮縫いを オーストラリアからのお客様がオンラインで着物を選び、オーダーしてくださいました✂️

まずは仮縫いを郵送でお届けし、Zoomの画面越しに丈や身幅を確認しながら、少しずつドレスは形になっていきました。

桜の下で、鳥居の朱色の中で笑う二人の写真が届いたとき、 遠く離れた場所からでも、確かにこの手で紡いだものが誰かの人生の一部になったのだと感じて嬉しかったです♡

A customer from Australia chose her kimono online and placed an order✂️

I first mailed a mock-up, and little by little, checking the length and width over Zoom, the dress took shape.

When the photos arrived of the two of them smiling under the cherry blossoms, in the vermillion red of the torii gate — even from far away, I felt so happy knowing that something woven by my hands had truly become part of someone's life♡

📷@whoshotthephotographer
👰‍♀️@cscambary 

#KimonoUpcycled #MadeToOrder #BridalCouture
#着物リメイク #国際オーダー
このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠 一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシル このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠

一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシルクは風を通して、歩くたびに裾がふわりと揺れます♪

後ろ姿には、着物の袖だった部分を使っていてお尻の部分の花柄が上下逆さまになっています👻最初は迷ったけれど、これはこれで面白いなと思ってそのまま残しました🫶🏻

一点ものなので、この一本だけ。気になる方はプロフィールのリンクから見てみてください♡

This silk is so light, perfect for the hot season 🫠

I made these wide-leg pants from a kimono✂️ The thin silk lets the breeze through, and the hem sways softly with every step ♪

The back is made from what used to be the kimono sleeves, so the floral pattern on the hips ends up upside down👻 I wasn’t sure at first, but honestly it grew on me, so I left it as is 🫶🏻

One of a kind, just this one pair. If you’re curious, the link is in my profile ♡

#着物リメイク #kimonoremake #正絹 #一点もの #和柄 夏の装い ワイドパンツ
数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。 今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプ 数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。

今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプトに合わせて、@redyeingproject さんに黒染めをお願いしました。

Helen x Vivat Veritasのイベントにベンダーとして出展してくださったご縁から生まれたコラボレーションです。

「服を捨てる前に、黒染めという選択肢を。」
色あせた服を、グラム単位の染め直しで蘇らせる——そんなコンセプトに強く共感しました。

天然素材のシルクスカート部分は深く美しい黒へ。
シャンティレースの部分は、少し緑がかった表情のある色に変化しました。

一着を長く着続けるための、小さな選択。
Before / Afterの写真、ぜひご覧ください🩷🖤

A silk dress I made a few years ago.

For this ""Released. Reimagined."" concept, I asked @redyeingproject to dye it black.

This collaboration grew out of a connection made when he joined the Helen x Vivat Veritas event as a vendor.

""Before you throw it away, consider black dyeing.""
His concept — reviving faded clothes through by-the-gram redyeing — really resonated with me.

The silk skirt, a natural fiber, transformed into a deep, beautiful black.
The chantilly lace took on a subtly greenish tone.

A small choice, in service of wearing one piece for longer.
Take a look at the before/after photos🩷🖤

黒染め
@redyeingproject

Photographers
@nothing_special_88
@japanphotographer_

Model
@sienna.christinaaa

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up and videos
@glam_by_jyoti

#黒染め #RedyeingProject #ReleasedReimagined #着物リメイク #サステナブルファッション
実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレ 実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレンと話す中で、これも一緒に見せようと決めました。

ヘレンと3週間近く一緒に準備を進める中で、コレクションの作り方、見る人を楽しませる魅せ方、ルック全体の組み立て方など、本当にたくさんのことを学びました。自分一人だったらこのルックスを入れる決断はしなかったと思う。誰かと一緒に作ることで見えてくるものがあるんだなと、改めて実感しました。
ヘレン、ありがとう♡

Honestly, I wasn't sure whether to include this piece in this show. It was something I'd made a while back. But talking it through with Helen, we decided to show it together after all.

Working with Helen for almost three weeks to prepare for the show, I learned so much — how to build a collection, how to style looks that engage an audience, how to put together a look as a whole. I don't think I would have made the decision to include this piece if I'd been on my own. Creating something together with someone else really opens your eyes to things you wouldn't see alone.

thank you Helen @designerhelen♡

Model @izumi_nishida

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#KimonoUpcycled #SustainableFashion #DesignerCollab #着物リメイク #ものづくり
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