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Vivat Veritas

Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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creation

Three-Way Gold Lace Wedding Dress

November 6, 2014 By Chie

このページを日本語で読む

gold lace wedding dress

I love the idea of a wedding dress that can be worn in multiple ways. You put so much time and money into your dress, why not wear it more than once? I got to wear mine twice since I had weddings in both Japan and the U.S., but since then the dress has been abandoned in the back of my closet.

I worked with a bride this summer to make a dress that can be worn in three different ways. The first one is the simple strapless mini dress. The bride had in mind that she would be wearing this to go to weddings or events in the future. Then for her actual wedding, we came up with the idea of making a tulle skirt that can be worn on top of the mini dress. To change it up for reception, I also made a peplum top in matching sheer lace fabric.inspiration and sketch

The above is the inspiration image for the dress. It is in peach color but since we found this gorgeous gold lace fabric, we decided to go with it. They sell it in white and black as well. The fabric is very delicate and pretty. I was scared to put the shears through for fear of cutting a wrong piece or the tip of the shears poking through the lace. gold lace wedding dress2gold lace dress inside frontThis is what it looks like inside before the lining was attached. Instead of using fusible interface, I used muslin fabric as the interface. This is my favorite method for wedding dresses, as you can use the muslin for the fitting, which is thread traced for the sewing lines. I stitch the muslin on satin each one by hand. This takes a long time! Also the bra cups are catch stitched, neckline is reinforced with twill tape and all the seam allowances are pressed and catch stitched to the muslin fabric. gold lace dress inside backWe decided to go with laced up back instead of zipper or fabric covered button since the bride just had a baby and her sizes were changing. I am happy with our decision since it is less stressful for both of us not to have to worry about the small size changes. Also this way, she can wear the dress for other occasions in the future.

When you see the ready-to-wear wedding dresses or rental wedding dresses in Japan, they usually use big white bra hooks looking things to lace up the back. I went to Okadaya in Shinjyuku and asked if they have the same notion, but they did not have it. They recommended using metal eyelet, but they are silver and did not look right on delicate gold lace. I decided to buy the bra hook and eye set and just use the eye part (talked about it in this video). I used 13 in total. It worked well since the satin ribbon I used for the lace up was thin. The eyes don’t really show in the right side of the fabric, and I was pleased with the result. front and back inside of the gold dress

Lots of hand sewing involved!

bridal sashThe bridal sash was ordered at Garter Queen on etsy. I ordered the color which look the closest to the dress, but the one that arrived look slightly different from the satin ribbon I used for the lace up back. So I ended up making a trip back to Okadaya and picked up the wide width satin ribbon that matched perfectly, and glued the pearl and crystal part to the ribbon.

Check out this page to see the bride’s wedding pictures!
gold lace dress back

 

Filed Under: bridal, creation, dress Tagged With: dress, gold, lace, three-way, wedding

MADE | Ballet Leotard

November 3, 2014 By Chie

little girls lace leotard w caption

Kiko recently started taking ballet lessons. She loves it. She gets to run around with other girls and she is enamored by all the girl clothes, and the little girl’s tutu leotard was no exception. I am a bit surprised by how much she is into tulle, dresses and pink since she spends a lot of time with Andy, who is all about boxing, weight lifting and other sorts of sweaty activity.

We went to her lessons a few times with just leggings and t-shirts, but all the other girls were dressed in pretty ballerina attire so I decided to make one for her. First thing I had in mind was to use up the fabric leftover I used to make jazz dance costume. I had a lot of white spandex fabric left over but I could not find it…I must have thrown them away during the move last year. So the only acceptable fabric for this project was the ivory stretch lace from this dress. It was an easy project and I am pleased with how it turned out. I like how it is a bit different from regular solid spandex leotard and I got to reduce the amount of ever growing fabric stash. girl leotard pattern drafting1

As for patterns, I started from Kiko’s bathing suit. I roughly traced the front and back of the bathing suit and added about an inch to the torso for length.

girl leotard pattern draftingHere are all the pattern pieces cut. There are only three: front, back and straps. Very simple! I can use this to make a bigger leotard by adjusting the base pattern when she grows out of this.girls leotard sewingThe leotard is fully lined with a skin color jersey. I first sewed the crotch for both fashion fabric and lining, then right sides facing, I sewed the leg hole (?) area. Before turning them inside out, I added the elastic bands in the seam allowances. I cut them an inch shorter than the length of the leg hole measurement, and stretched them a bit as I sewed. attaching tutu skirt to leotardI had some soft tulle left over from making this veil, so I cut them in long rectangle, gathered the top and attach it to the waist line. I still don’t like cutting and sewing tulle fabric. I get the urge to pull all my hair out whenever I have to deal with this fabric. It drives me crazy that there is no grain line and the fact that it rips so easily. little girls lace leotard4 little girls lace leotard1

This made me want to make Nettie bodysuit by Closet Case. I had seen Sonja and Inna made them and they look great on them. That is going to be the next project after I finish the silk Archer button up!lace leotard娘が最近バレエを始めたので、レッスン用のレオタードを作りました。
型紙は、水着をちょっと変化させて作ったもの。
以前作ったウェディングドレスの残り布を使いました。
タイツとバレエシューズはここで購入したものです。
chie sig2

{find me elsewhere: shop, facebook, etsy, twitter, pinterest, instagram}

 

 

Filed Under: Baby & Kids Clothes, blog, blogs, creation, mama series, 日本語 Tagged With: ballerina, ballet, costume, girl, kids, leotard, バレエ, レオタード, 手作り, 洋裁

MADE | Grainline Studio Archer Button Up Shirt

October 16, 2014 By Chie

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas8 copyI know Archer sew-along has long been over, but I am proud to say that I made the shirt! It all started when I saw this equipment silk blouse. I know it is a simple button up shirt, but everything seemed so perfect – the fit, length, and fabric. However, I could not bring myself to pay $300 for a shirt even though it is silk and I’m sure I’ll get a lot of wear out of it. So I was in search for a perfect button up shirt pattern, something that is loosely fitted (not like an office lady blouse) without pleats, long sleeves and has pockets. Somehow I stumbled upon the Grainline studio’s Archer button up shirt pattern and it fit the bill!

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas6 grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas13

Although I was between size 0 and 2, I decided to just cut size 2 because I didn’t mind the shirt fit a bit loose on me. I did not make any modification at all. I was surprised how perfect it fit on me. The sleeve length was perfect. I often find sleeves too short when I buy retail clothes in Japan even for size large, so I was glad. The shirt length is good and covers my lower half which means I can wear it with jeggings as well. I might extend it by, maybe, two inches in length next time so I don’t have to keep tucking in the shirt when I wear it with a skirt. grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas10                                                                     {Kiko’s t-shirt made by me, blogged here}

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas9The fabric is from the Ho Chi Min city trip earlier this year. I was going to do a separate blog post about my day at the fabric market in Ho Chi Min, but I never got to. I only ended up picking this fabric because I was overwhelmed by the massiveness of the fabric market and no one seemed to have spoken English or Japanese. It was so much bigger than the Japanese fabric row in Nippori. I managed to buy two meters of this chiffon (most likely poly) and I’m sure I got ripped off. I don’t remember exactly, but I paid somewhere between 4 USD to 6 USD.

I thoroughly enjoyed following Jen’s sew-along. I really love her way of writing. It is clear and easy to follow. I especially loved this video post on how to attach the collar and collar stand on the shirt. I’ve made shirts before, but I did not know the easy way to finish attaching the collar stand in the inside of the garment. I always had to fight with the excess seam allowances. I am so glad I learned this method.

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas12 grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas11

Since the fabric is a light-weight chiffon, I had a hard time cutting the fabric. It slipped a lot and did not want to stay in place. Also sewing hems and pockets were challenging. In the sew-along, Jen just presses the 1/4 inches pocket seam allowances and attach to the shirt front, but I basted the pocket seam allowances, pinned them in place and sewed. I also basted the hem because it did not hold the iron press very well.

Overall, I am very pleased with my new closet addition. It makes me sad that Andy does not like it as much. He said “it is old woman-ish”. Maybe the floral print fabric? I don’t know. But I shan’t care because his favorite outfit of mine is sweat pants and white tank… Weird.

Next up is to make the same shirt in silk crape de chine! I bought this fabric and it was the most I spent on fabric for my own clothes. Thankfully I had some points saved up, so I only needed to pay extra 1000 yen (10 USD) out of my own pocket. The shop, called hideki is highly recommended because they ship quick and let you order fabric samples up to 10. I had something else in mind when I ordered the samples, but I was sold on this beautiful crape de chine when I saw the sample.

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas7grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas14

Details | pattern: Grainline Archer Button Up | fabric: polyester chiffon from Viet Nam | Size: 2 | Modification: None |Interface: Used organza, instead of iron-on interface
Outfit details | Shirt made by me, denim from here (I roughed up the knees), Booties from my elementary school age(!) and Madewell leather jacket.

今年初めに行ったホーチミンの繊維街で買ったお花柄のシフォンで、シャツを作りました。
きっかけはEquipmentというブランドのシルクシャツを見たことから。ドレープ感、素材、胸ポケットと、すべて完璧なこのシャツ、自分で作りたい!と思い、型紙を探しました。

たどりついた型紙はGrainline StudioというインディペンデントパタンナーさんのArcher Button Upというもの。
PDFですぐダウンロードでき、”Sew-Along”という形で、ブログ読者さんに作り方を詳しく説明してくれるので、分かりやすかったです。

以前もボタンダウンのシャツは何度か作ったことがあったのですが、今回はシフォンの滑りやすい素材ということもあり、仕付け糸で仮に留めてポケットや裾を縫ったり、工夫しました。

主人は「なんかおばちゃんシャツみたい・・・」と反応悪。でも気にしないで着ます!

chie sig2

{find me elsewhere: shop, facebook, etsy, twitter, pinterest, instagram}

Filed Under: blog, blogs, creation, top, 日本語 Tagged With: archer, blouse, button down, button up, chiffon, floral, grainline studio, ho chi min, sew-along, shirt, シフォンシャツ, 手作り, 洋裁

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My name is Chie. I design and make custom wedding dresses in Tokyo, Japan. Read More…

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このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠 一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシル このシルクの軽さ、暑い季節にちょうどいい🫠

一枚の着物から、ワイドパンツを作りました✂️薄手のシルクは風を通して、歩くたびに裾がふわりと揺れます♪

後ろ姿には、着物の袖だった部分を使っていてお尻の部分の花柄が上下逆さまになっています👻最初は迷ったけれど、これはこれで面白いなと思ってそのまま残しました🫶🏻

一点ものなので、この一本だけ。気になる方はプロフィールのリンクから見てみてください♡

This silk is so light, perfect for the hot season 🫠

I made these wide-leg pants from a kimono✂️ The thin silk lets the breeze through, and the hem sways softly with every step ♪

The back is made from what used to be the kimono sleeves, so the floral pattern on the hips ends up upside down👻 I wasn’t sure at first, but honestly it grew on me, so I left it as is 🫶🏻

One of a kind, just this one pair. If you’re curious, the link is in my profile ♡

#着物リメイク #kimonoremake #正絹 #一点もの #和柄 夏の装い ワイドパンツ
数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。 今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプ 数年前に制作したシルクのドレス。

今回「Released. Reimagined.」というコンセプトに合わせて、@redyeingproject さんに黒染めをお願いしました。

Helen x Vivat Veritasのイベントにベンダーとして出展してくださったご縁から生まれたコラボレーションです。

「服を捨てる前に、黒染めという選択肢を。」
色あせた服を、グラム単位の染め直しで蘇らせる——そんなコンセプトに強く共感しました。

天然素材のシルクスカート部分は深く美しい黒へ。
シャンティレースの部分は、少し緑がかった表情のある色に変化しました。

一着を長く着続けるための、小さな選択。
Before / Afterの写真、ぜひご覧ください🩷🖤

A silk dress I made a few years ago.

For this ""Released. Reimagined."" concept, I asked @redyeingproject to dye it black.

This collaboration grew out of a connection made when he joined the Helen x Vivat Veritas event as a vendor.

""Before you throw it away, consider black dyeing.""
His concept — reviving faded clothes through by-the-gram redyeing — really resonated with me.

The silk skirt, a natural fiber, transformed into a deep, beautiful black.
The chantilly lace took on a subtly greenish tone.

A small choice, in service of wearing one piece for longer.
Take a look at the before/after photos🩷🖤

黒染め
@redyeingproject

Photographers
@nothing_special_88
@japanphotographer_

Model
@sienna.christinaaa

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up and videos
@glam_by_jyoti

#黒染め #RedyeingProject #ReleasedReimagined #着物リメイク #サステナブルファッション
これを着て、カフェに行ったら絶対目立ちそう😆☕ アップサイクルで生まれた、新しいファッションの形。 これを着て、カフェに行ったら絶対目立ちそう😆☕

アップサイクルで生まれた、新しいファッションの形。
コーヒー豆袋のジャケット × 着物リメイクのセットアップ。

一枚一枚、生地の柄合わせから縫製まで、すべて手で仕上げています🪡🧚
実はこの着物、裏地にも別布を仕込んでいて、羽織ると初めて見える色があるんです♡

ヴィンテージ素材に眠っていたストーリーを、
もう一度誰かの日常に届けたくて作りました。

If you wore this to a café, you'd definitely stand out 😆☕

A new form of fashion, born from upcycling. A coffee bean sack jacket × a kimono-remake set-up.

Every single piece is finished entirely by hand, from matching the fabric patterns to the sewing itself 🪡🧚 Actually, this kimono has a different fabric worked into the lining too — there's a color that only reveals itself once you put it on ♡

I wanted to give the stories sleeping in vintage materials a chance to become part of someone's everyday life again.

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Model
@emorylove33

Jewelry
@viviange

Make up
@elanoramua

#アップサイクルファッション #着物リメイク #サステナブルファッション
実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレ 実はこのお洋服、今回のショーに入れるか自分では迷っていました。結構前に作った作品だったので。でもヘレンと話す中で、これも一緒に見せようと決めました。

ヘレンと3週間近く一緒に準備を進める中で、コレクションの作り方、見る人を楽しませる魅せ方、ルック全体の組み立て方など、本当にたくさんのことを学びました。自分一人だったらこのルックスを入れる決断はしなかったと思う。誰かと一緒に作ることで見えてくるものがあるんだなと、改めて実感しました。
ヘレン、ありがとう♡

Honestly, I wasn't sure whether to include this piece in this show. It was something I'd made a while back. But talking it through with Helen, we decided to show it together after all.

Working with Helen for almost three weeks to prepare for the show, I learned so much — how to build a collection, how to style looks that engage an audience, how to put together a look as a whole. I don't think I would have made the decision to include this piece if I'd been on my own. Creating something together with someone else really opens your eyes to things you wouldn't see alone.

thank you Helen @designerhelen♡

Model @izumi_nishida

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#KimonoUpcycled #SustainableFashion #DesignerCollab #着物リメイク #ものづくり
お客様からお預かりした大切な帯。 大切に保管されていた帯ほど、実は「日常でどう使えばいいかわからな お客様からお預かりした大切な帯。

大切に保管されていた帯ほど、実は「日常でどう使えばいいかわからない」という声をよく伺います。だからこそ、その帯の物語を読み解きながら、現代の暮らしに馴染むデザインに仕立て直すことを意識してます😌

パッと見にはわからないけれど、実は使いやすさを追求した仕掛けが隠れています。

ショルダーを付ければ、両手が空くアクティブなスタイルにも対応👜

あなたの思い出の帯も、こんな風に日常の相棒にしてみませんか?

A precious obi entrusted to me by a client.

I often hear people say they aren't sure how to incorporate their cherished obis into their daily lives. That is exactly why I focus on reading the story woven into the fabric and reimagining it into a design that fits modern living😌

There are hidden details that make this bag truly functional, even if you can't see them at first glance. By attaching the shoulder strap, it becomes the perfect hands-free bag for an active lifestyle👜

#upcycledfashion #着物リメイク #obibag #remake #sustainablestyle
飛行機と電車の中で作ったジャケットです✈️🚆 去年の夏の3週間、アメリカとヨーロッパを旅しながら、 飛行機と電車の中で作ったジャケットです✈️🚆

去年の夏の3週間、アメリカとヨーロッパを旅しながら、座席でひたすらチクチク🪡着物の裏地にキルト芯を挟んで、フリーハンドで刺し子して、日本に帰ってから染めました。

This jacket was made on airplanes and trains✈️🚆

Over three weeks last summer, traveling through the US and Europe, I stitched away in my seat🪡 
Kimono lining sandwiched with quilt batting, sashiko stitched freehand, then dyed after I got back to Japan.

Model
@kana_nakar

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Nails
@ms_muse_nail

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#kimonoupcycle #sashiko #sustainablefashion #ReleasedReimagined
#刺し子
お客様から届いたステキな帯を、オーダーメイドのリュックにアップサイクルしました✂️ 吉祥文様が織り お客様から届いたステキな帯を、オーダーメイドのリュックにアップサイクルしました✂️

吉祥文様が織り込まれた錦の帯地は、黒地に金・白・紫…と、見る角度によって表情が変わる贅沢な一品。その美しさをそのまま活かしながら、毎日持ち歩きたくなる使いやすいリュックに仕立てました。内ポケット付きで、実用性もしっかり。

受注制作についてはプロフィールのリンクよりお問い合わせください💌

A client’s treasured obi has found a new life as a custom-made backpack✂️

The brocade fabric, woven with auspicious Japanese motifs, shifts from gold to white to violet depending on the light, a truly luxurious textile. I tried to preserve its beauty while crafting it into a backpack you’d actually want to carry every day. Complete with interior pockets for real-world practicality.

For custom orders, visit the link in our profile 💌

#KimonoUpcycle #SlowFashionJapan #WearableHeritage #着物リメイク #帯リメイク
着物リメイクをするとき、どうしても捨てられてしまうことの多い裏地。 薄手のシルクの手触り、もったい 着物リメイクをするとき、どうしても捨てられてしまうことの多い裏地。

薄手のシルクの手触り、もったいなくてサマーワンピースに生まれ変わらせました。

そのままでは物足りないのでアーティストの Riko Monma @rikoshurimonmaさんに染め直しをお願いしたら、一気に息を吹き返しました✨

数年前に作ったこの一着、今回の @designerhelен とのイベントで、コレクションに加えることにしました。

Helenからは色の組み合わせについていろいろアドバイスをもらって、自分だけでは絶対に辿り着けなかったような配色を試してみたり。準備の時間も、とても楽しかった😌

The lining of a kimono — often discarded when the fabric is remade into something new.
That soft, lightweight silk felt too good to let go, so I turned it into a summer dress. It needed something more, so I asked artist Riko Monma to dye it for me — and suddenly it came alive again.

I made this piece a few years ago, but for the recent event with @designerhelena, I decided to bring it into the collection. Helen gave me so much guidance on color — combinations I never would have arrived at on my own. The whole preparation process was just really, really fun😌

Model
@bethenny.x

Photographer 
@nothing_special_88 

Nails
@ms_muse_nail

Jewelry
@viviange

Hair 
@angh0
@sho_kanaida
@iam__little__boy

Make up
@glam_by_jyoti

#着物リメイク #キモノアップサイクル #KimonoUpcycle #SustainableFashionTokyo #ReleasedReimagined
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