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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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洋裁

Watson Bra in Black Scallop Lace

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Watson Bra Black by Cloth Habit (via vivatveritas.com)

I made my first bra! I’m so excited. What’s more, it fits well. No pattern modification to patterns were made. I’m impressed how well this pattern is drafted.

Bras never fit me. I kind of gave up on the whole bra thing. I hate under wire bra’s, because they  cut into my shoulders and are uncomfortable. So for a while I was into un nana cool’s non wire bra like this one, but even that, I have the problem of the under bust elastic pulling up as the day goes by so I stopped wearing them. This Watson longline bra though, perhaps because of the longline-ness, it fits just right around my under bust and they are very comfortable. I’m raving about this pattern, but rest assured this is not a sponsored post. Watson Bra Black Scallop Lace by Vivat Veritas BlogIn Process of Making Watson Bra3

The sew-along at Cloth Habit blog was very helpful. As the instructions stated, I adjusted the upper cup pattern for my scallop lace. I bought my lace at Nippori Tomato for 100 yen per meter. 1 meter was just enough to make a bra in size 32A. All the other notions including the slides, stretch mesh, hook and eye, plush strap elastic were purchased at Flora’s Garden on etsy.
In Process of Making Watson Bra1

One change I made was to line the cups and added a foam bra cup. They were from my old un nana cool bra. I’m not into sheer bra cups. They need to be the opposite of sheer, in order to function as a bra for a daily use in my opinion. Actually, growing up in Japan, I had never encountered a sheer bra until I went to the U.S. When I first saw the soft bras without any padding at cups, I wondered how in the world you wear it without showing your nipples? That’s still amazes me to this day. In Process of Making Watson Bra2 Cloth Habit Watson Bra in Black Lace DSC_1705 Handmade Watson Bra in Black Lace Watson Bra and Archer Shirt (via vivatveritas.com)

Wearing it with my polkadot Archer shirt (pattern by Grainline Studio). The bra can function as a bralet, so showing it a bit underneath is a shirt is ok. It was such a fun quick sew! I’m going to make one in white with a modification of racerback next. Can’t wait. Watson Bra Black by Cloth Habit (click through for more)

Pattern: Watson bra pattern
Size: 32A
Fabric: Black scallop stretch lace from 1st floor of Nippori Tomato
Notions: Flora’s Garden on etsy
Modifications: Added bra pad and lined the bra cups.
Watson Bra in Black and Archer Shirt (via vivatveritas.com)

初のブラ作り、完成しました！
簡単だったし、見せブラにもOKな感じなので、夏に重宝しそう。
うれしい！

ワイヤーなしなので、着け心地もすごく良いです。
サイズは32Aです。
次は白で作ります♪chie sig2

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Tips on Quickly Refashioning Clothes

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Super Easy DIY Refashion of White Halter Top (via vivatveritas

Refashioning clothes is one of my favorite things to do in between projects. It’s fast and I like giving old clothes new second life. I’ve salvaged an old pleather leggings to make a baseball cap, turned an old cardigan into a cropped sweater, and gave a cocktail dress  new life. (Check out more for DIY archive) Because my friends know that I like to sew, I get clothes donated often. Through out my refashioning journey, I’ve learned a few tips to speed up the process.

1. Don’t unpick seams, but cut along the seam line. 
This is the biggest time savor. I used to unpick seams and it took hours. I hate the fuzz it makes after I unpick seams. Now instead of unpicking the seams, I cut along the seam line, or cut as close as possible to the seam line. This won’t work if you are making a very minor adjustment, like taking in the waist 1cm, but if you are changing up the design entirely or taking in more than 3cm, it works.
2. Spend time on salvaging notions
You can save unpicking time for salvaging zippers, hook and eye, bones, ribbons.
3. Think of a design to preserve the good original details
This can be pretty hemlines, necklines, sleeve cuffs or pocket details. For this white halter top, I kept the design as is, and just hem it short to make it into a top and took in 10cm all around to fit myself better.

Before and After of White Halter Top DIY (via vivatveritas Before Pictures of Halter Top DIY (via VivatVeritas cut out for new seamssalvedged notionsnew seams for the white topAdding bra padsAdded a bra cup so I don’t have to wear a bra. Easy DIY Refashion of White Halter Top (via vivatveritas.com)Wearing it with DIY distressed jeans.

What is your best refashioning tips? Do you prefer making things from scratch or refashion old clothes?
Quick Refashion of White Halter Top (via vivatveritas.com) One Hour Refashion of White Halter Top (via vivatveritas.com)

洋裁が趣味なのを知っている友達から、おさがりを色々いただきます。

このサマードレスもいただきものだったのですが、サイズが合わなかったのでリメイク。
バスト、ウエスト回りを１０㎝小さくし、染みが着いていたスカート部分を切り取って、トップスにしました。chie sig2Find me elsewhere:

MADE | Archer Button up Silk Variation

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archer button up shirt silk version7 cover photoMy second try on Grainline Studio Archer Button up shirt! I made the first one in chiffon polyester and was pretty happy with it. It was actually a wearable muslin to prepare for this silk shirt. My attempt to recreate this Equipment shirt without paying $300.

First, this was the most expensive fabric I bought for myself! I buy nice fabrics for bridal customers but I tend to go to sales rack for my own sewing… I ordered it online from Hideki for 2.5 meters, and it cost 5000 yen (50 USD). Thankfully I had my credit card points saved up so I got it for free more or less. The fabric is silk crape de chine in blue gray. I ordered a sample before purchasing. The store lets you order up to 10 samples but I think it is only available to Japan domestic customers. The color I ordered is now sold out but they still have it in pink and gray here.archer button up shirt silk version by vivatveritasarcher button up shirt silk version1I made two modifications to the pattern.

1) add the pocket tab. When you look at this Equipment silk shirt, you can see that there are square pockets with tab on both sides. I drafted the pattern for the tab based on a Japanese sewing book all about pockets. It is pretty easy. The key to it is to add about 4mm on the width of the pocket tab, so that it sits slightly wider than the actual pocket.

2) add sleeve tabs (inspired by Sophie’s shirt!).
I like to roll up the sleeves. For fabrics like chiffon or silk crape de chine, it is hard to keep the roll up sleeves stayed since the fabric is slippery. That’s something I realized after wearing my previous shirt for a few times. I made the tabs based on the store bought shirt I have, but it turned out the width was a bit too narrow for the buttons I used. It was too late to fix it and not that noticeable so I did not fix it.

archer button up shirt silk version8archer button up shirt silk version11I always have hard time when I fold the facings under and topstitch in place from the right side of the garment. I hate the suprise of uneven hem or the hem not being caught. I had to unstitch and fix that. archer button up shirt silk version5

So my question now is…how do you keep the silk shirt without a stain under armpits? I’ve seen one idea on Pinterest, where you attach panty liners on the shirt to prevent a stain. Although it might work just fine, that’s not the most sexy thing. When I wore this shirt, I just wore a long sleeve undershirt and used a lot of anti-perspirin (something I stock up when I go to the U.S.! Evidence here), but that means I can only wear this shirt in the winter. Any suggestions?archer button up shirt silk version6Details | pattern: Grainline Archer Button Up | fabric: silk crape de chine from Hideki | Size: 2 | Modification: added pocket tabs and sleeve tabs |Interface: light weight fusible stretch interface

Outfit details | Shirt made by me, denim DIYed (blogged here), heels from Steven Madden.

シルクのシャツ、作りました。
Equipmentというブランドのシルクシャツが欲しかったのですが、とってもお高いので、自分で作ってみました。
生地はヨーロッパ服地のひできという楽天ショップで買ったシルクデシン。
柔らかくて、熱を保持するので、あったかいです。

デニムは３９０マートで買ったものを自分でリメイク♪

chie sig2

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