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Custom Wedding Dress & Kimono Upcycled Clothes | オーダーメイドウェディングドレス&着物ドレス

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MADE | Polkadot Button Up & Pom Pom Beanie

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polkadot button up shirt grainline studio vivat veritas1 This is my third Archer Button Up shirt by Grainline Studio. You might be sick of me talking about this pattern, so I will keep this blog post short. When I use commercial patterns, I try to make more than one garment from the pattern so as to get the maximum value out of paying for the pattern, printing out the pages, and assembling the A4 paper puzzle which can take a while. Because I am a big fan of this pattern, I had to make more than a few.

The inspiration of this shirt came from a YouTuber, Mimi Ikonn. I enjoy watching her videos and in one of her videos, she was wearing a polka dot button up, skinny jeans and red blazer and looked really cute. I like this polkadot, it adds a playful element to the outfit yet not like a Minnie mouse.
The fabric is from the sale’s section of Nippori Tomato (トマト). It was only 100 yen (1 USD) per meter, and I bought two meters for this button up. It is most likely synthetic mix (rayon and cotton it seems like). Compared to my silk Archer, this one is much easier to care for. I can throw it in the washer and no ironing is required after each wear. I love my silk button up but, it is certainly not fitted for my daily life, which involves running around with a three-year-old.
Again, I added the sleeve tabs, which will come in handy for warmer months. I also extended the length by 5cm. It gives more butt coverage than the last two (here and here) Archer shirts I made.
I made this shirt last year and finally took pictures today. Sometimes it’s hard to find a time that the weather and my mood work together (Did you read Rachel’s post about How to feel confident behind the camera lenses?)

polkadot button up shirt grainline studio vivat veritas2 polkadot button up shirt grainline studio vivat veritas3polkadot button up shirt grainline studio vivat veritas4Details | pattern: Grainline Archer Button Up | fabric: seems to be rayon and cotton blend | Size: 2 | Modification: added sleeve tabs and extended the length by 5cm|Interface: light weight fusible stretch interface

Outfit details | Shirt made by me, old H&M faux leather shorts (similar), Cardigan from Andy’s grandpa, Sam Edelman Petty Suede booties, Alexander Wang tote,denim DIYed (blogged here), Beanie knitted by me.

Grainline Studioのシャツまた作りました♪
これで３枚目です。今回はレーヨンとコットン混合のような布（生地表示がなかったので詳しくはわかりませんが）で作りました。

洗濯機でじゃぶじゃぶ洗えるし、アイロンがけは不要だし、とても気安いシャツです。

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MADE | Archer Button up Silk Variation

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archer button up shirt silk version7 cover photoMy second try on Grainline Studio Archer Button up shirt! I made the first one in chiffon polyester and was pretty happy with it. It was actually a wearable muslin to prepare for this silk shirt. My attempt to recreate this Equipment shirt without paying $300.

First, this was the most expensive fabric I bought for myself! I buy nice fabrics for bridal customers but I tend to go to sales rack for my own sewing… I ordered it online from Hideki for 2.5 meters, and it cost 5000 yen (50 USD). Thankfully I had my credit card points saved up so I got it for free more or less. The fabric is silk crape de chine in blue gray. I ordered a sample before purchasing. The store lets you order up to 10 samples but I think it is only available to Japan domestic customers. The color I ordered is now sold out but they still have it in pink and gray here.archer button up shirt silk version by vivatveritasarcher button up shirt silk version1I made two modifications to the pattern.

1) add the pocket tab. When you look at this Equipment silk shirt, you can see that there are square pockets with tab on both sides. I drafted the pattern for the tab based on a Japanese sewing book all about pockets. It is pretty easy. The key to it is to add about 4mm on the width of the pocket tab, so that it sits slightly wider than the actual pocket.

2) add sleeve tabs (inspired by Sophie’s shirt!).
I like to roll up the sleeves. For fabrics like chiffon or silk crape de chine, it is hard to keep the roll up sleeves stayed since the fabric is slippery. That’s something I realized after wearing my previous shirt for a few times. I made the tabs based on the store bought shirt I have, but it turned out the width was a bit too narrow for the buttons I used. It was too late to fix it and not that noticeable so I did not fix it.

archer button up shirt silk version8archer button up shirt silk version11I always have hard time when I fold the facings under and topstitch in place from the right side of the garment. I hate the suprise of uneven hem or the hem not being caught. I had to unstitch and fix that. archer button up shirt silk version5

So my question now is…how do you keep the silk shirt without a stain under armpits? I’ve seen one idea on Pinterest, where you attach panty liners on the shirt to prevent a stain. Although it might work just fine, that’s not the most sexy thing. When I wore this shirt, I just wore a long sleeve undershirt and used a lot of anti-perspirin (something I stock up when I go to the U.S.! Evidence here), but that means I can only wear this shirt in the winter. Any suggestions?archer button up shirt silk version6Details | pattern: Grainline Archer Button Up | fabric: silk crape de chine from Hideki | Size: 2 | Modification: added pocket tabs and sleeve tabs |Interface: light weight fusible stretch interface

Outfit details | Shirt made by me, denim DIYed (blogged here), heels from Steven Madden.

シルクのシャツ、作りました。
Equipmentというブランドのシルクシャツが欲しかったのですが、とってもお高いので、自分で作ってみました。
生地はヨーロッパ服地のひできという楽天ショップで買ったシルクデシン。
柔らかくて、熱を保持するので、あったかいです。

デニムは３９０マートで買ったものを自分でリメイク♪

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MADE | Grainline Studio Archer Button Up Shirt

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grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas8 copyI know Archer sew-along has long been over, but I am proud to say that I made the shirt! It all started when I saw this equipment silk blouse. I know it is a simple button up shirt, but everything seemed so perfect – the fit, length, and fabric. However, I could not bring myself to pay $300 for a shirt even though it is silk and I’m sure I’ll get a lot of wear out of it. So I was in search for a perfect button up shirt pattern, something that is loosely fitted (not like an office lady blouse) without pleats, long sleeves and has pockets. Somehow I stumbled upon the Grainline studio’s Archer button up shirt pattern and it fit the bill!

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas6 grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas13

Although I was between size 0 and 2, I decided to just cut size 2 because I didn’t mind the shirt fit a bit loose on me. I did not make any modification at all. I was surprised how perfect it fit on me. The sleeve length was perfect. I often find sleeves too short when I buy retail clothes in Japan even for size large, so I was glad. The shirt length is good and covers my lower half which means I can wear it with jeggings as well. I might extend it by, maybe, two inches in length next time so I don’t have to keep tucking in the shirt when I wear it with a skirt. grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas10                                                                     {Kiko’s t-shirt made by me, blogged here}

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas9The fabric is from the Ho Chi Min city trip earlier this year. I was going to do a separate blog post about my day at the fabric market in Ho Chi Min, but I never got to. I only ended up picking this fabric because I was overwhelmed by the massiveness of the fabric market and no one seemed to have spoken English or Japanese. It was so much bigger than the Japanese fabric row in Nippori. I managed to buy two meters of this chiffon (most likely poly) and I’m sure I got ripped off. I don’t remember exactly, but I paid somewhere between 4 USD to 6 USD.

I thoroughly enjoyed following Jen’s sew-along. I really love her way of writing. It is clear and easy to follow. I especially loved this video post on how to attach the collar and collar stand on the shirt. I’ve made shirts before, but I did not know the easy way to finish attaching the collar stand in the inside of the garment. I always had to fight with the excess seam allowances. I am so glad I learned this method.

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas12 grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas11

Since the fabric is a light-weight chiffon, I had a hard time cutting the fabric. It slipped a lot and did not want to stay in place. Also sewing hems and pockets were challenging. In the sew-along, Jen just presses the 1/4 inches pocket seam allowances and attach to the shirt front, but I basted the pocket seam allowances, pinned them in place and sewed. I also basted the hem because it did not hold the iron press very well.

Overall, I am very pleased with my new closet addition. It makes me sad that Andy does not like it as much. He said “it is old woman-ish”. Maybe the floral print fabric? I don’t know. But I shan’t care because his favorite outfit of mine is sweat pants and white tank… Weird.

Next up is to make the same shirt in silk crape de chine! I bought this fabric and it was the most I spent on fabric for my own clothes. Thankfully I had some points saved up, so I only needed to pay extra 1000 yen (10 USD) out of my own pocket. The shop, called hideki is highly recommended because they ship quick and let you order fabric samples up to 10. I had something else in mind when I ordered the samples, but I was sold on this beautiful crape de chine when I saw the sample.

grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas7grainline studio archer button up shirt vivat veritas14

Details | pattern: Grainline Archer Button Up | fabric: polyester chiffon from Viet Nam | Size: 2 | Modification: None |Interface: Used organza, instead of iron-on interface
Outfit details | Shirt made by me, denim from here (I roughed up the knees), Booties from my elementary school age(!) and Madewell leather jacket.

今年初めに行ったホーチミンの繊維街で買ったお花柄のシフォンで、シャツを作りました。
きっかけはEquipmentというブランドのシルクシャツを見たことから。ドレープ感、素材、胸ポケットと、すべて完璧なこのシャツ、自分で作りたい！と思い、型紙を探しました。

たどりついた型紙はGrainline StudioというインディペンデントパタンナーさんのArcher Button Upというもの。
PDFですぐダウンロードでき、”Sew-Along”という形で、ブログ読者さんに作り方を詳しく説明してくれるので、分かりやすかったです。

以前もボタンダウンのシャツは何度か作ったことがあったのですが、今回はシフォンの滑りやすい素材ということもあり、仕付け糸で仮に留めてポケットや裾を縫ったり、工夫しました。

主人は「なんかおばちゃんシャツみたい・・・」と反応悪。でも気にしないで着ます！

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